No start after changing the starter
03-29-04, 05:26 AM
#16
Chris,
I think that choice was probably driven more by the desire to make it hard for non-dealer mechanics (including DIYers) than by engineering. I think whatever Toyota division is watching out for the dealer's post-sale revenue deserves the slap.
Since the experience is fresh in your mind, two questions?
Did you have the factory service manual to go by?
How many "special" tools does the job take?
George
I think that choice was probably driven more by the desire to make it hard for non-dealer mechanics (including DIYers) than by engineering. I think whatever Toyota division is watching out for the dealer's post-sale revenue deserves the slap.
Since the experience is fresh in your mind, two questions?
Did you have the factory service manual to go by?
How many "special" tools does the job take?
George
03-29-04, 11:19 AM
#17
Hey George,
I dont have the lexus service manual, I did purchase a CD service manual call MItchell off from ebay.
It did help somewhat, gives you torque spec, drawing of where parts are etc.
NO SPecial tools, just 10 12 14mm, with long extensions helped, although I do have alot of tools, I also looked at the pics from a member who post his work.
There was a few tricks that I learn, I have a digital camera, so I took pictures as before I take parts off. Alot of things to remember. Below is what I would do in order.
Remove all plugs, water hose etc
Remove TB
Remove TB air chamber
Remove Fuel line, Fuel rail
Remove Intake manifold.
Remove back water bypass <----this here is the trickiest part. I spent a long time figuring how to take this sucker out.
Starter, Best way to take this out is with a long 3/8 drive with a flex head. They gave you just enough room to loosing the bolt. NO need to lower the transmission or get underneath the car. I dont know why others on this board advise this. I think its much harder and more time consuming.
When putting everything back on. make sure intake manifold gasket placed correctly, and you torque it to spec and dont lose any nuts bolts or fuel line washer.
if you guys plan to do this soon, PM me, email me Chrisv2004@yahoo.com, I can walk you through. I wish I had someone to walk me through.. by all means I am not a mechanic, or an expert, but I do all my own work. I ll share what I know.
Its raining out so I wont do any work today. I ll keep this post update on my results
Chris
I dont have the lexus service manual, I did purchase a CD service manual call MItchell off from ebay.
It did help somewhat, gives you torque spec, drawing of where parts are etc.
NO SPecial tools, just 10 12 14mm, with long extensions helped, although I do have alot of tools, I also looked at the pics from a member who post his work.
There was a few tricks that I learn, I have a digital camera, so I took pictures as before I take parts off. Alot of things to remember. Below is what I would do in order.
Remove all plugs, water hose etc
Remove TB
Remove TB air chamber
Remove Fuel line, Fuel rail
Remove Intake manifold.
Remove back water bypass <----this here is the trickiest part. I spent a long time figuring how to take this sucker out.
Starter, Best way to take this out is with a long 3/8 drive with a flex head. They gave you just enough room to loosing the bolt. NO need to lower the transmission or get underneath the car. I dont know why others on this board advise this. I think its much harder and more time consuming.
When putting everything back on. make sure intake manifold gasket placed correctly, and you torque it to spec and dont lose any nuts bolts or fuel line washer.
if you guys plan to do this soon, PM me, email me Chrisv2004@yahoo.com, I can walk you through. I wish I had someone to walk me through.. by all means I am not a mechanic, or an expert, but I do all my own work. I ll share what I know.
Its raining out so I wont do any work today. I ll keep this post update on my results
Chris
04-14-04, 07:46 PM
#18
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I second the idea that dropping the transmission mount is not necessary. My friend and I went through two flex-heads on his 3/8 drive socket wrench-- but that's why you buy Craftsman, I guess... free replacement.
The starter relay is located in a fusebox type thing just in front of the battery. You pry off a black plastic cover and reveal two rows of fuses. The starter one is a pale purple thing with a square top. Cost me $65 at the local Toyota dealer.
If you have trouble, drop me a PM-- I might be able to find the old one and take a picture of it.
f_p
The starter relay is located in a fusebox type thing just in front of the battery. You pry off a black plastic cover and reveal two rows of fuses. The starter one is a pale purple thing with a square top. Cost me $65 at the local Toyota dealer.
If you have trouble, drop me a PM-- I might be able to find the old one and take a picture of it.
f_p
04-15-04, 11:29 AM
#19
hey Fisher
thanx for your offer to help. but I got my car running smooth again. It actually run even better now. When I took the manifold an tb and stuff off. I cleaned it out good. My car idles much better.
thanx for your offer to help. but I got my car running smooth again. It actually run even better now. When I took the manifold an tb and stuff off. I cleaned it out good. My car idles much better.
08-26-04, 05:15 PM
#20
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Loud engine noise continue after key was pulled
Desperately need help!!
Yesterday, I drove my 99 RX300AWD (odo=110K miles) for 20 Miles with A/C off.
Then, I parked the car for 2 hours.
When I started the engine, there was a loud noise along with engine noise (sort of crane noise)
Then, I shut the ignition off & pulled the key, engine shut off.
However, that strange noise continue for approx 30 second (enough time for me to open the hood and trunk trying to get a wrench)
Then, the noise completely gone by itself.
I started the engine again & no more noise. I tried several times, and couldn't repeat the problem.
Later, I drove the car for 100 miles, with a/c on & off. Nothing unusual.
Trans oil&Engine oil level is fine.
Could it be the starter keep engaging to the flywheel, or starter relay? If yes, why the noise continued for 30 sec after the key was pulled?
Appreciate any suggestion.
Email: mek88@yahoo.com
Los Angeles
Yesterday, I drove my 99 RX300AWD (odo=110K miles) for 20 Miles with A/C off.
Then, I parked the car for 2 hours.
When I started the engine, there was a loud noise along with engine noise (sort of crane noise)
Then, I shut the ignition off & pulled the key, engine shut off.
However, that strange noise continue for approx 30 second (enough time for me to open the hood and trunk trying to get a wrench)
Then, the noise completely gone by itself.
I started the engine again & no more noise. I tried several times, and couldn't repeat the problem.
Later, I drove the car for 100 miles, with a/c on & off. Nothing unusual.
Trans oil&Engine oil level is fine.
Could it be the starter keep engaging to the flywheel, or starter relay? If yes, why the noise continued for 30 sec after the key was pulled?
Appreciate any suggestion.
Email: mek88@yahoo.com
Los Angeles
Originally posted by Carpe Diem
Well I guess I answered too quickly. If the starter is turning then the solenoid is working. The mechanics of the system go something like this. When you turn the key to the start position that activates the solenoid. The solenoid pulls the starter drive gear forward until it engages the flywheel and starter motor gear and bridges a couple of contacts. Bridging those contacts makes the starter motor turn the starter drive gear and the starter drive gear turn the flywheel. If the starter can be heard spinning then the solenoid is pulling the starter drive to the contacts. If the starter is not turning the engine over then either its the wrong starter, the starter is not installed correctly, one of the starter drive gears is damaged or the flywheel is damaged.
Lets back up here. Tell me some more about the intermittant starting problem? What were those symptoms?
What did the dealer say he was going to do for the princely some of $1200. I'd guess a normal starter replacement to be parts plus a couple of labor. What else was on the estimate?
George
Well I guess I answered too quickly. If the starter is turning then the solenoid is working. The mechanics of the system go something like this. When you turn the key to the start position that activates the solenoid. The solenoid pulls the starter drive gear forward until it engages the flywheel and starter motor gear and bridges a couple of contacts. Bridging those contacts makes the starter motor turn the starter drive gear and the starter drive gear turn the flywheel. If the starter can be heard spinning then the solenoid is pulling the starter drive to the contacts. If the starter is not turning the engine over then either its the wrong starter, the starter is not installed correctly, one of the starter drive gears is damaged or the flywheel is damaged.
Lets back up here. Tell me some more about the intermittant starting problem? What were those symptoms?
What did the dealer say he was going to do for the princely some of $1200. I'd guess a normal starter replacement to be parts plus a couple of labor. What else was on the estimate?
George
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