RA40

iTrader: (6)

What differential fluid are you using in your standard rear ends?
Would you go aftermarket synthetic or dealer stuff? I dunno what the dealer fluid is...

ChrisK

iTrader: (1)

I'm using Amsoil Series 2000 Synthetic 75W-90 Gear Lube.

DaveGS4

iTrader: (2)

Redline for me. The Toyota fluid is just fine though.

SeattleGS400

iTrader: (1)

I use the same--about $9 per quart (you'll need 2 of them for the 1.5 quart drain and refill). From what I've read on Amsoil's website, change this once, and it's basically a lifetime fill. The rear diff is not subjected to the high heat of the engine/transmission and the magnetic plug catches any metal shavings that might be produced.

SeattleGS400

iTrader: (1)

By the way, the dealer rear diff fluid. . . there is none. They just buy a major corporation's fluid (i.e. Valvoline, Castrol) rear diff fluid and sell it to you--at least from glancing at the Toyota/Lexus dealer's parts inventory that I've seen around here in Seattle. That's why I ended up just buying the higher priced synthetic fluid--first, for better protection in a high quality fluid; and second, I wanted to make sure it would last as long as I had the car.

RA40

iTrader: (6)

Where can you get Amsoil and Redline? The only ones I remember seeing at the mass auto stores is Castrol and Mobil 1.

SeattleGS400

iTrader: (1)

I bought my Amsoil from a local Toyota dealer. I've seen some other synthetics around auto parts stores as well (esp. Mobil 1 gear oil). Look and call around your local auto parts stores (even some dealers will carry it), I'm sure you'll find some good synthetic alternatives to regular dino gear oil.

Are you going to do the rear diff change yourself? If so, here's a BIG tip: Buy a large syringe type pump from an auto parts store (about $8; grey colored (about 1 foot long); made by Powerbuilt I believe), and it will make your life immensely easier to pump the fluid into the rear diff--trust me on this. I tried the twist-on/twist-off type of hose system to get the gear oil out of the bottles, but it was just too hard due to the tight clearance. Pumping it via the syringe is much, much easier.

DaveGS4

iTrader: (2)

There are places online, most of the dealers for Redline are performance and race shops, not Pep Boys or Autozone. The one here in Charlotte is a Nascar supply store right next to Lowes Motor Speedway.

http://www.redlineoil.com/dealers.htm

RA40

iTrader: (6)

I was supposed to change it at 60K and figuring it was an easy job, I forgot about it till I was going over my checklist the other night.

Any preferences among Redline and Amsoil? How does Mobil 1 do? (It is easily obtainable that's why.)

Is that a hex keyed bolt I see on the differential? It is HUGE, any idea what size it is?

Seattle- Good tip on the pump, I will have to pick one up. Hate to drain it only to find no way of putting it in.

Thanks guys!

/Aerostar\

iTrader: (2)

Redline 75W-90!! great stuff, thats what i use

and yes, that is a gigantic hex key bolt...10mm to be exact

had to go to home depot mid-way through doing the diff to buy that some of a *****

anways, good luck, and use www.myoilshop.com to purchase the redline, there is a dealer code that you can punch in for 10% off, but i cant seem to find it now. do a search

SeattleGS400

iTrader: (1)

For the 10mm hex key, I had to do the same thing as Aerostar had to while in the process of doing my rear diff as I didnt' have one in my toolkit.

Anyways, I got the the socket version. That is, it looks like a regular socket but the head is the 10 mm hex key on it--it either fits on a 3/8" or 1/2" rachet (can't remember on the top of my head) for good leverage. Do NOT buy the hex key kit (has many diff sizes of hex keys) on a pocket-knife style holder, it's not durable enough and does not give you enough leverage (another miscue I made). The socket type hex key ran me about $5.

The fill and drain plugs in the rear diff is on the right (passenger) side of the car. You'll need to jack it up on both sides evenly to get access to it (and to ensure that you fill it up properly).

Another tip, BEFORE you remove the drain plug, loosen the fill plug (the top plug) first to ensure that you will be able to fill the diff later on. Then once the fill plug (top plug) is loosened, you may try to loosen and remove the drain plug (the bottom plug). Let the diff drain for about 5 min. Then replace the drain plug (w/ a new washer), and fill the rear diff through the upper fill hole. It will take about 1.5 quarts--fill it up with the syringe pump until fluid seeps out of the top drain hole--as once it's doing that, you're up to the rear diff capacity and you can close it up.

Lastly, dont' forget to get new crush washers from Lexus or Toyota for your rear diff drain plug and refill plug to ensure a tight seal. If buying from a Toyota dealer, just tell them it's for a 97 Toyota Supra rear diff, it's the same crush washer.

Good luck!