lexusk8

Well, the engine is not literally "flooded", but this is what it almost feels like right now. Let me explain.

During this cold winter season, I've been having this annoying problem of my engine not properly starting up. (BTW, it's a 2001 ES300 w/ about 84,500 miles on it). What I mean about the problem is that when I turn the key to "START", it cranks but the engine won't normally fire (almost sounds like there's no fuel), and the RPM needle doesn't shoot up to normal range (it either stays at zero or around 500 RPM, and causes a disturbing rumble). Sometimes it takes 2 to 3 turns to the key so that my car would start up right; other times it takes a dozen or so times! Yeah, you can imagine how embarrassing it is to get stuck in the middle of a parking lot while others are honking and p*ssed off at you (this already happened a couple times)

What I've been doing lately when this occurs is I keep my foot on the gas pedal while I turn the key, and that usually helps the engine fire up right. But of course, this is not good to do all the time (i.e. overreving the car) because of the fear of blowing up the starter electrical system.

Here are my current takes on this matter. At first I thought this is all because of bad gas, but I've filled up from Exxon, Mobil and similar places, and still get the same effect. I know for sure that this engine starting problem has nothing to do with the battery or the starter since it cranks every time, and I just replaced the battery about 5 months ago.

So does anyone have an idea what could be causing this annoying problem? Could it have something to do with the intake system or something more complicated?

On another note, since I'm at about 84,500 on the odometer now, do you think it's a good time to take the car in for the 90K service?

Thanks a lot, and your comments and feedback are much appreciated

-Doug

VVT-i

Sound like you have a bad Idle Air Control valve. This valve is located under the throttle body. Sometimes after the car start up and let off the gas pedal the car will die. You will have to keep your foot on the gas pedal until the car warm up to be able to let the car idle by itself.

lexusk8

Bad idle air control valve seems to make sense. After all, this is only occurring when I'm starting or "idling" the car. How can this part go suddenly bad? It just seems strange to me

Can this part be easily DIY-repaired or replaced? If not, what will I be looking at (as far as cost goes) to repair or replace this idle air control valve from the dealership? Thanks VVT-i

Lexusfreak

Might not be a bad idea to get your 90k service done in addition to this problem. Let me know what the problem ended up being lexusk8, I'm courious to know & good luck as I hope it's nothing too serious.

lexusk8

Thanks L-freak, I'm considering my options now since I have a choice of going to 2 Lexus 'ships or a Toyota 'ship within a 25-mile radius. Plus, I've already done a decent amount of work in the last few months (i.e. wiper change, battery change, oil/filter change, tire rotation, air filter, A/C filter (to be DIY'ed soon), and tranny fluid), so those things can be cut out from the 90K package

JPI Racing

The ES300 is bad about this. I replaced at least 25 of these on the ES300.
JPI

VVT-i

The IAC can get some carbon deposit and the valve got stuck.
It's not hard to DIY, you have to remove throttle body because the IAC is located underneath the TB.
Remove couple of connector, and couple coolant hoses.
HINT: Used couple needle nose vise grip the block the coolant before remove the hoses. This way you don't make a mess and don't loose any coolant.
Sound you have done a lot of work on your car. You can ask for a chop up 90K with trans flush or just drain and fill, brake fluid change and coolant change.

lexusk8

After completing my 90K service about a week ago, I was still getting the rough idle and hesitation issue upon engine start-up. I decided to take a look at the throttle and intake system since that seems to be the culprit after much research in the CL related threads and articles. Here's a pic of my engine (driver's side).



Nailing down the basic components (hope I got them right)
1) Air filter assembly
2) Mass air flow sensor assembly
3) Primary rubber hosing
4) Plastic air intake body
5) Secondary rubber hosing (both connected to the throttle body linkage)

Although mine is a 1MZ-FE engine, I followed the steps from this informative article, which covers the throttle body cleaning of a 1UZ-FE engine (LS400). I was able to disconnect every component listed above, except for #5 to allow me to peer into the throttle body linkage. #5 has a vise-like grip onto the throttle body, and I didn't want to risk creating tears onto the dried-out hosing from all the pulling force. Another note to mention is that there are two input bores to the throttle body from the plastic air intake, instead of one shown for an LS400.

In any case, I used Valvoline SynPower Carb Choke & Throttle Body Cleaner (bought from Advance Auto for $2.50) to clean inside the plastic air intake. I used a long screwdriver to stuff some shop rags inside the intake body to aid the cleaning process. When I pulled them out, they were quite dirty and filled with dirt and carbon.

After about 45 min worth of the job, I reconnected everything back together and started up the car. It idled much better, back to spec range, and no hesitation either I am not sure if cleaning the plastic air intake or the disconnecting/reconnecting of the MAF assembly helped, but I hope this clears up the annoying problem I've been getting for the last few months

lexusk8

After two fruitless and disappointing trips to a "trusted" Lexus dealership and a service trip to the dealership where I orignally bought the ES (costed me 5 rental days while it was serviced ), I finally got the rough/low idle issue fixed today by a local Toyota dealership. They performed a throttle body service which involves cleaning the gunk from inside the TB. I would think it is no more than just using a $2 bottle of carb/choke cleaner and some rags, but it's actually much more than that. At any rate, Toyota did the job in just an hour (paid for an hour's worth of labor), and now my car starts up fine and at normal idle every time

I'm just severely disappointed with the knowledge of Lexus service since I expect much better out of them, but I guess this is not the case. Sometimes it's the little guy that seems to win..

saber

Toyota now makes a Throttle Plate Cleaner for do it yourselfers
http://www.saber.net/~monarch/tbclean.jpg. Using a toothbrush
in combination with some old rags you can really get the throttle
plate and walls of the throttle body clean.
http://www.saber.net/~monarch/tbtoothbrush.JPG

saber

http://www.saber.net/~monarch/tpcleaners.JPG
http://www.saber.net/~monarch/tbclean.jpg

Woogie

if its an 01, can't you still lemon law that ****?

lexusk8

Lemon laws vary state by state, not being specific to any vehicle model. For example, my CT-registered vehicle qualifies as a lemon after (4) failed repair attempts or 30 business days out of service, within 2 yrs or 18,000 miles. The Toyota fix was my 3rd attempt, and hopefully will be the last one ever

Lemon laws state-by-state: http://www.nationalautoguide.com/lemonlaws.htm

Woogie

did you buy this vehicle new or used? just curious

VSsc400

iTrader: (1)

lexusk8... glad you got things worked out... keep them air filters clean too okay? lol