Just based on common sense on coolants, ELC's can go for 5-years or 150,000...nothing new here

#2, the standard EG coolant is 2 years or 30K miles...nothing new here.

What is the issue?

 

so then your saying that the 'Super Long Life' that Toyota states in writing is good for 5 years OR 150,000 miles (so it MUST be ELC) & the 'Long Life' is an EG....good for 2 years OR 30,000 miles? That's all I'm trying to find out & from your comments in your last thread here that's what your stating. That's the only possibility. Are you following me?

Notice how I didn't mention any specific colours?

 

Sure, and one is not the same as the other. Plus the fact that I dislike ELC. Also people think ELC are EG when they are not.

Colors get brought yup since 99% of the time people think red means ELC, when it does not. Also the original post stated only colors, which means zero.

To close, you can use ANY EG coolant in my 98 and be fine. The newer cars might need to run ELC or dex-cool.

 

Fair enough.....as long as the Super Long Life (ELC) is compatable with my 2001 ES.....I'll be happy!

The other thing I like about the SLL coolant, is the fact it is already pre-milxed with distilled water in a 55% - 45% mixture (the Toyota Red 'long life' is not) so it's conveinient.

 

I would ask since unless it is flushed, ELC and EG coolants should not be mixed.

You like it but I dislike pre-mixed coolants since distilled water sucks! I make Ro/DI water. It is the best, of the best, of the best to date.

 

Ro/DI water? Do tell.

 

Ro/DI = reverse osmosis deionization. WAY better this distilled. Distilled still has TDS (Total disolved solids) in it...... Salt, minerials, metals. I do not want that in my rad!

 

And where would I find that type of water exactly?

 

I make it, but Salt water fish store or regualr fish stores should have it (if they care about there fish). Or some food stores will have them.

 

Actually, distilled water has 0 TDS, by nature of the distilling process.

A good home Reverse Osmosis system can typically remove 90-99% of dissolved solids. But if you want 0 TDS, distilled water is the way to go.

 

My local Toyota dealer carries the Toyota red coolant in 1 gallon pre-mixed form as well. But it's more for topping-off convenience, and is only a little cheaper than the full-strength red coolant (which would yield 2x the amount after being mixed with water).

 

I have used distilled water and the TDS are not zero. This has been known for years in the salt water reef world.

Nevermind the fact that I have a TDS meter and have tested distilled water. It is still high. RO water is about 5ppm to about 15ppm of TDS if the RO membrane is new and operating at 100%. MyRo/DI water is zero

I have only had a reef tank since 1994 and distilled water is junk. Plus distilled water still has phosphates. nitrates, silicates along with other items.

Also could effect Ph of the coolant too.

Tap water = Bad
Distilled = Good
RO = Better
RO/DI = Best

Distilled water for example is the purest water available . . . when or if its distilled properly. The problem is that when purchasing "distilled water" You can not be sure of the methods. Hence this water should be avoided (although it is better than tap)

 

That's more or less all I was trying to say. It was in response to these two previous posts:
Toyota's use of distilled water in pre-mixed coolants does not inherently make it bad. An ineffective membrane in an RO system could have as much impact on TDS levels as improperly distilled water. But I'm sure we can both agree, with TDS meters in hand, that water must be tested if the purity of the source is to be confirmed. And that if we had inserted "[bad/good] sources of" before the word "distilled" in my and your previous posts, we wouldn't have anything more to discuss.

 

you got it! Not trying to be a pain,.

 

How much does this water cost compared to 'distilled' water? & is there a certain name they call this water specifically or do I just look for the Ro/DI label on the ingredents label?