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Old 02-19-05, 02:48 PM
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houstonguy
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Default Timing Belt

I have a 1990 ES250 with 162K miles on it. The last time I changed the timing belt was at 120K miles. When do I change it next? Also I haven't done any other maintenance (besides regular oil change and coolant flush) after 120K. Does anybody have a list of things to do after 150K?
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Old 02-19-05, 11:15 PM
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Originally Posted by houstonguy
I have a 1990 ES250 with 162K miles on it. The last time I changed the timing belt was at 120K miles. When do I change it next? Also I haven't done any other maintenance (besides regular oil change and coolant flush) after 120K. Does anybody have a list of things to do after 150K?
Your next tbelt isnt due until about 180k-210k.. depending on age. As for other maintainence items, i would suggest a brake fluid flush, possibly a power steering fluid flush, and also transmission. Looks like you take care of the oil changes and coolant flushes. Flush the rest of the fluids.
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Old 03-21-05, 08:15 PM
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Dont forget the air filter and PCV valve.
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Old 03-21-05, 08:41 PM
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Originally Posted by houstonguy
I have a 1990 ES250 with 162K miles on it. The last time I changed the timing belt was at 120K miles. When do I change it next? Also I haven't done any other maintenance (besides regular oil change and coolant flush) after 120K. Does anybody have a list of things to do after 150K?

The next interval would be 210,000. when you do , change the indler pulley and the tensionsers and the camshaft and crankshaft seals, and also the water pump.,

and please dont neglect top change the $2.50 cent PCV valve. it will save your motor. i just had every external (and 2 internal) seals replaced ebcause the factory one was in till 138K, and it was dumping over a half a quart of oil a day.

Good ideas for 150K service:

Fuel Filter
Air Filter
Spark Plugs and wires (if not done already)
PCV Valve
Tranny fluid (DRAIN AND FILL ONLY...DO NOT flush this tranny if your fluid is any color other than blood red!)
Tranny filter
inspect CV joints (inner and outer)
check tie rods and rack and pinion
Struts, (Check em, if they arent gone yet, the probably will be soon, dont be alarmed, its normal wear and tear, this car weighs 4,000 lbs, and its riding on struts designed for a 3,000 lb car, so they dont last as long as they should.)

Brakes and brake fluid
Power Steering fluid flush.
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Old 03-21-05, 08:50 PM
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Well done(note to self, do all of those on my car too!); I would expect nothing less than that from the foremost '250 expert.
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Old 03-21-05, 10:38 PM
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The #1 reason Toyota / Lexus cars end up in the junkyard is because of
improper cooling system care or system neglect. If you have aftermarket coolant in the system, get rid of it and put in the factory original coolant mixture (50% Toyota Long Life coolant and 50% distilled water) otherwise the aluminum componets of your engine could corrode and cause cylinder head gasket failure. Also, after many years of use, aftermarket antifreezes cause mineral buildups in the cooling system which reduce engine cooling efficiency which can cause heat warpage of the aluminum cylinder head which is yet another cause of head gasket failure.

Take off the radiator cap and shine a light into the radiator filler opening. If you see white mineral deposits partially obstructing the radiator core tubes then buy and install a new radiator. Reverse flushing and using radiator cleaners will not effectively get rid of these mineral deposits. Owners who have always used the factory original 50% Toyota Long Life coolant and 50% distilled water coolant mixture at coolant replacement time never ever have any problem of mineral buildup in their radiators.

If the interior core tubes of the radiator are free of deposits then examine the exterior of the radiator and air conditioning condenser. If filled with bugs and dust these need to be gently cleaned with water and detergent. This is most effectively done if the radiator is removed. Finally, buy and install a new Toyota thermostat and thermostat gasket.
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Old 03-21-05, 10:42 PM
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Originally Posted by saber
The #1 reason Toyota / Lexus cars end up in the junkyard is because of
improper cooling system care or system neglect. If you have aftermarket coolant in the system, get rid of it and put in the factory original coolant mixture (50% Toyota Long Life coolant and 50% distilled water) otherwise the aluminum componets of your engine could corrode and cause cylinder head gasket failure. Also, after many years of use, aftermarket antifreezes cause mineral buildups in the cooling system which reduce engine cooling efficiency which can cause heat warpage of the aluminum cylinder head which is yet another cause of head gasket failure.

Take off the radiator cap and shine a light into the radiator filler opening. If you see white mineral deposits partially obstructing the radiator core tubes then buy and install a new radiator. Reverse flushing and using radiator cleaners will not effectively get rid of these mineral deposits. Owners who have always used the factory original 50% Toyota Long Life coolant and 50% distilled water coolant mixture at coolant replacement time never ever have any problem of mineral buildup in their radiators.

If the interior core tubes of the radiator are free of deposits then examine the exterior of the radiator and air conditioning condenser. If filled with bugs and dust these need to be gently cleaned with water and detergent. This is most effectively done if the radiator is removed. Finally, buy and install a new Toyota thermostat and thermostat gasket.
Saber, toyota long life coolant wasnt around in 1990. It hadnt even been invented yet. Therefore it couldnt have come fromthe factory with it.

it came with green. keep the green in it. do not mix the 2, the read and green togehter if mixed, create a corrosive chemical which will eat and destroy many parts inside your engine.

IF you want to go red, you can, just have the system COMPLETELY backflushed.

i do know what you mean about the mineral deposits saber, mine has them, because the schedule wasnt adhered too, and now i have to buy a new radiator because of it. however you are wrong about them not being able to be cleaned. run enough water pressure through the radiator, it will come clean.
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Old 03-21-05, 11:35 PM
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Originally Posted by ArmyofOne
Saber, toyota long life coolant wasnt around in 1990. It hadnt even been invented yet. Therefore it couldnt have come fromthe factory with it.

it came with green. keep the green in it. do not mix the 2, the read and green togehter if mixed, create a corrosive chemical which will eat and destroy many parts inside your engine.

IF you want to go red, you can, just have the system COMPLETELY backflushed.

i do know what you mean about the mineral deposits saber, mine has them, because the schedule wasnt adhered too, and now i have to buy a new radiator because of it. however you are wrong about them not being able to be cleaned. run enough water pressure through the radiator, it will come clean.
umm.. i recall reading on a few Supra and Cressida forums that Toyota Red did exist when the original LS400 and ES250 was out, and a few guys say it was OEM fill on the MKIII Supra and Cressida.
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Old 03-21-05, 11:51 PM
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Originally Posted by ArmyofOne
Saber, toyota long life coolant wasnt around in 1990. It hadnt even been invented yet. Therefore it couldnt have come fromthe factory with it. it came with green. keep the green in it. do not mix the 2, the read and green togehter if mixed, create a corrosive chemical which will eat and destroy many parts inside your engine.IF you want to go red, you can, just have the system COMPLETELY backflushed. i do know what you mean about the mineral deposits saber, mine has them, because the schedule wasnt adhered too, and now i have to buy a new radiator because of it. however you are wrong about them not being able to be cleaned. run enough water pressure through the radiator, it will come clean.
Army, toyota red long life coolant has been the factory fill of every Lexus ever made and every Toyota ever made since 1987. To switch back to Toyota Red the radiator and engine block drain plugs need to be removed and the system flushed with plain water (through the radiator and thermostat openings) with the Heater control in the Hot position until clear water flows from the drain plugs. No "backflushing" is needed because it serves no useful purpose - it will not remove the rock hard calcium carbonate and silicate deposits from the radiator core tubes. These deposits are just like the water spots on your windshield or your home plumbing pipes and no amount of water pressure will clean them off.

By the way, here in California where only 31% of our people support the war in Iraq, instead of a "Support our Troops" bumper sticker, we are starting to use a sticker that says "Peace is Patriotic Too"
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Old 03-22-05, 08:56 AM
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Originally Posted by saber
Owners who have always used the factory original 50% Toyota Long Life coolant and 50% distilled water coolant mixture at coolant replacement time never ever have any problem of mineral buildup in their radiators.
I have to agree with Saber. I once questioned the reason of using only Toyota Long Life coolant, until I looked inside the coolant reservoir. My RX300 is 3 years old, yet there's absolutely no deposit of any kind in the reservoir nor on the radiator cap. It's as if the cooling system were brand new. I've never seen this in any of my previous cars with various types of coolant. There's definitely something special about Toyota coolant.

Now I wonder if I could use Toyota coolant in my old GM with 130K miles.

Last edited by HarrierAWD; 03-22-05 at 08:59 AM.
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Old 03-22-05, 02:47 PM
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By the way, here in California where only 31% of our people support the war in Iraq, instead of a "Support our Troops" bumper sticker, we are starting to use a sticker that says "Peace is Patriotic Too"
trying to **** me off? it worked.

quit trying to threadjack and stay on topic,


I used to do this for a living and still do it for a hobby. I have more than 15 years experience around cars. they have been a part fo my family since they were first invented. that said, if the dude wants to put the green stuff in there (cause its CHEAPER by a LONG shot) then let him do it. It isnt going to hurt anything.


According to JP IMports, the systemhas to be flushed before you can switch coolants. His word is as strong as GOSPEL to me, period. i have known and trusted this guy for a long time, and everything he has said has been right.


but its very wrong of you to try to antagonize my political views in a thread not even pertaining to it. if you have isses with my opinions take it up with me in PM's...jeez. a real class act you are.

Last edited by ArmyofOne; 03-22-05 at 02:55 PM.
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Old 03-22-05, 03:15 PM
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Look like we cant' keep any topic civil around here, lately. Thread is closed.
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