Inabj2

Its the harmonic balancer thats attached to the pulley that went flying out of his car its a relatively common problem with the sc300s. That car should not be driven at all until he replaces the whole crank pulley again. I had the same problem. Unfortunately there is no easy or cheap fix to this. A brand new pulley will cost 350+ dollars new at the stealership, if the cross reference numbers are the same you might be able to save some money if you go to toyota and get a non turbo supra crank pulley (were talking 45 dollar difference here). Although if your car is 2001 I am rather surprised how on earth the pulley could of gone out already?!? Thats somethign that didnt happen to me till I had 103,000 k miles on my sc300!!

Last thing you want to do is drive the car! Unfortunately itll be somewhat pricey and a big pain in the *** to fix! Go get yourself a pulley extractor plus make yourself the biggest breaker bar EVAR!!

You could save yourself over 100 dollars if you buy the crank pulley here.

http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...01&catalogid=1

Best of luck!!! Id do some searches in here in here on how to remove a crank pulley I found a rather decent write up searching around.

aliga

iTrader: (147)

i can get you a used crank pulley for 150 shipped.

T0ked

iTrader: (2)

That is most definitely the crank pulley/harmonic dampener (same thing on the SC). When mine fell off, it didn't hit the ground, it just landed on the plastic underbody cover. I never noticed it until I went to get my timing belt fixed. It was rusted out so was probably sitting there for quite awhile. My car made a little more chatter, but no screetching. That screeching is probably your serpentine belt slipping on what is left of the part since that inner ring was never meant to drive the belt. The constant slipping is what's burning/glazing your belt. The mechanic said my tensioner was in good condition which is why I didn't have any problems. But it is an expensive piece ($240 for me new). I can't recommend driving it until it's fixed, although apparently I had been for awhile with no problems. Since you're getting in there, you might as well get your timing belt done at the same time if you need to. I did my timing belt, crank pulley (unexpectedly) and all mounts at the same time and saved a lot of money thanks to Aliga's bro.

Inabj2

Im not sure id buy a crank pulley used since it seems like a wear and tear part?

aliga

iTrader: (147)

i hear ya, but for half the price, you can afford to change it twice, which i doubt.

all parts, are wear and tear of some sort, motors, tranny, suspension, etc.

UptownGS

Thanks guys..... it most definitely is the Crank pulley... I took off the SBelt last night to inspect all the pulleys and sure enough the Crank pulley was missing... the serpentine belt went around the inner rubber lining so much that it made imprints of the threaded lanes so it looked like the pulley was still there....

well we had a tough time getting the bolt holding the crank pulley loose but will try again today w/ a bigger breaker bar. I'm even thinking about doing the starter trick.... wedging the bolt w/ a wrench against the bottom ground and then starting the engine for 1 second to break the bolt loose..... either way, its gonna be heat gun first to see if I can rip that sucker out.

thanks for that trademotion website...... cheapest place I've found yet...>!!!!

chuckb

You better remove the ecu fuse first or something..if that thing actually started with the wrench on there you could have bigger probs.........

GS3.0

iTrader: (1)

Why not give yourself and excuse to change your pulley's to aftermarket performance Unorthodox Racing Pulley's since you're gonna be changing your belt and crank pulley anyway.

http://www.unorthodoxracing.com/

the prices are much cheaper than OEM and you'll be freeing some extra HP as well.

just my 0.02 cents.

hope you remedy this problem soon!

chuckb

a pulley kit MIGHT give you 1 tenth at the track. but it's not worth the hassle of low idle charging issues

UptownGS

yeah if you read up on Unorthodox pulleys you'll realize that the OEM pulley has the specific weight balance for a reason..... in the long run, it is better for your engine and plus you wont have charging issues..... I plan on rulling a high power full audio system so this is not an option.

GS3.0

iTrader: (1)

I guess i should do my research before i make any suggestions next time. I guess this is why we need a forum like this to help better educate each other on how some certain parts may/may not be ideal for certain setups. What exactly is "low idle charging issues"...how would running performance aftermarket pulleys such as the ones from Unorthodox be bad for the engine in the long run? This may be off topic but i've wanted to get more hp from my N/A setup opposed to running a 2JZGTE engine from an JDM Aristo. What other performance parts can you get aside from the usual CAI/exhaust/ecu while at the same time keeping the "reliability" issues in check?

chuckb

with some underdrive pulleys, the alternator will not turn fast enough to charge if the RPMs are below a certain RPM(1200 ish). so if your car is sitting there idling your battery will be getting drained instead of charging ,

UptownGS

also the imbalance of weight retards the timing I believe.... there was a good article that I read but I forget where.... just do a "Pulley" search on .NET and there are lots of great info there.

btw guys I got it fixed.... Thanks for all the help! car is running great now....