NYlexus

Sup peeps,

About 2 yrs ago i (for I dont know what reason) started to put MOBIL 1 SYNTHETIC OIL in my 99 GS300. I do understand its good for the engine but EZ/JIFFYLUBE charge like $60 just for oil change and plus other stuff ALWAYS comes up e.g....air filter, transmission flush , radiator flush etc...and the bills ends up being $100-120 almost everytime....and its starting to suck

well here are the questions..

1. Is it ok for me to change back to reg 10/30 oil...as i have heard its going to kill the engine if i do so?

2. Should i get the K&N air filter since it does not need to be replaced ...ever!...I had my air filter replaced at 91K and today i am at 96K and had to be replaced again...

3. What do you guys think about RADIATOR/TRANNY FLUSH and other stuff they offer...Is it worth it?

4.Last major service i had done was at 60K from the dealer and I am now at 96K....Should i wait till 120K or get another major service done?


I really appreciate in advance for the comments and suggestions ....thanks

southernsc

1. from what i understand its ok aslong as your not switching it every oil change
2. thats up to you, i have a K&N and love it, i just clean it every month
3. get some seafoam, i dont think its necessary to have them do all that stuff all the time
4. if you have the money go ahead and get the 90k service. better safe than sorry imo.

SWSC400

Stick with synthetic and try to change it yourself, $30.00 including a 7500mi filter.
Get the K&N most definately.
Tranny flush is only necessary every 30K or so, but if you just have your standard service done each year (pan drop, new fluid, gasket, clean the screen) that is definately sufficient and $35.00 at most tranny places.
Radiator flush and fill every 2 years if you can do it yourself fine, if not it's about $90.00. Have a Failsafe thermostat put in ( if it ever goes out, it will not stick in the closed position leaving you stranded) $18.00
I'd wait till 120K for service if you had the 60K done.

pianovt

1. It's OK to switch back. You may want to use 5-30, unless you are in a really hot climate. Consider doing it yourself.

2. I can't imagine how dusty a place would have to be for 5000 mile air filter change intervals. Are you in a desert area with lots of sand? The air filter on the 99 GS300 is so easy to replace, there is no reason to let anyone do that for you and mark up the parts cost. An air filter should last about 10,000 to 15,000 miles in an area that doesn't have sand storms or volcanic eruptions.

3. Change the radiator fluid every 30,000 miles.

4. The most I would do is to drain whatever comes out the drain hole and replace the same amount every 10,000 miles.

Other stuff:

5. Have the timing belt replaced ASAP, that is a must at 90,000 miles. Go to Toyota for that (cheaper than at Lexus).

6. Have the brake fluid replaced every two years.

7. See if the cabin air filter was ever replaced. If not, replace it yourself.

8. Avoid places like Jiffy Lube, etc.

b1gredek

if your in so cali,,,,, i can get all this done at toyota at jiffy lube prices,,,,, just trying to help you out

NYlexus

As expected thanks all for some great info and responses.

I am just trying to save as much money as possible so changing back to regular oil will happen. I was worried that i will mess up the engine.

So i got 2 answers.....as far as getting major service done....90K timing belt NOW!!! or wait for 120K

I will follow the guidlines for changing the other fluids which i may now get it from a TOYOTA dealership.....

I dont understand about the AIR FILTER clogging up that bad in 5-6k mile!?!?! But it was... I live in SOCAL and the car does get driven about 70miles per day.

I may try the TOYOTA oil change for my 2GS. I have been taking my 3GS to the LEXUS dealership where i brought my car

Lexmex

1. I would stay synthetic. I might consider for your GS moving to 0W40 Mobil1 depending on the number of miles you have.

2. I have different air system now, but when I was using a K&N, I would wipe off all the oil and then reoil it on the front part of the panel facing the entering air so I would not get MAF errors.

3. I would get one tranny flush if you find that the fluid is pink/grey (a lot of friction material) and then go drain and fill from there. I cannot do any flushes down here as there are no machines, but I have been doing a religious drain and fill of my tranny. Try Redline WaterWetter for your coolant.

4. Do the 90K, about every 30K is right, though I remember the 120K is not as big as the 60 or 90. The timing belt (water pump recommended) should be done at 90K.

GSoup

nylexus... do the oil change yourself...walmart has the mobil1 for $20 bucks (5quart container) + one more i think its like $4.... ...you can order the OEM filter like from sewell
https://www.lexus-parts.com/partlist...41&ModelID=125
or just go to the toyota dealer and give the part number - 04152-31080 (2WD) 04152-31060 (AWD).
you'll spend toatl like $30 buck and your worry of switching over is gone..

meZoom!

1. 0-40 is a rather unconventional oil for stock normally aspirated toyota engines, at least in southern california! it IS sold at stores, but is oftentimes available only in a limited number of brands!
AND it IS OK to switch back to regular oil from synthetic. as long as you have enough oil in your engine, your engine is NOT going to die from the switchback!!!!! This is an oil company scare tactic in my opinion!!

2. Ever look at your air filter after a few thousand miles? You know all that nasty dirt stuff that has accumulated? Well, that stuff is still going to accumulate on the filter whether you have a K&N or not. K&N does have a "never needs replacement" sort of motto but it's still important to clean the poor thing once in a while. Several impatient people I know have two K&N filters so there's no downtime in waiting for the filter to be cleaned, oiled, etc.

Lexmex

1. I agree with you as it is not conventional. I have tried virtually every grade of Mobil 1 in existence. I once used 5W30, but as my RX creeped up in miles, it needed something a little heavier and the 0W-40 seems to do it. I mention in my RX group to stick with 5W30, but if you are over 100K miles and use your RX for a little more than a suburban commute, then one might consider a 0W40. At my track, I have also noticed it runs a little smoother using this.

2. I should probably have clarified this. On the RX, some of us have gotten MAF issues from using the K&N filters. Granted, I cleaned it often enough, but only after reoiling the front side, did the MAF errors go away. It still collected crud, but the last thing I wanted was the K&N oil getting over my MAF sensor.