timimg belt replacement 60 or 90K ?
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My '99 GS4 manual says replace at 90K, dealer recommends 60K My gut says it's just a way to up sell at the service desk.
Anyone have any experience, rather than anacdotal stories, with this replacement?
TIA
Anyone have any experience, rather than anacdotal stories, with this replacement?
TIA
#3
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Paul1234, are you getting service at Parker in Little Rock??? If so, be aware that there is the Lexus maintainence schedule, then there's Dave Parker's maintainence schedule.......they've even gone to the trouble to print up a seperate "recommended" maintainence schedule in the last couple of years.
I've bought 5 cars there since '92 and, though I've been happy with the dealership and service overall, Parker does try and "slush it on" quite a bit. And labor is now up to $70/hr. Gotta pay for the new location ( about 10 X the size of the current one) somehow........
I agree with DevilDog; follow the manual and you'll be fine.
I've bought 5 cars there since '92 and, though I've been happy with the dealership and service overall, Parker does try and "slush it on" quite a bit. And labor is now up to $70/hr. Gotta pay for the new location ( about 10 X the size of the current one) somehow........
I agree with DevilDog; follow the manual and you'll be fine.
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Bought mine via the net, e-d 20 dealers for any GS4 any color price is primary concern. Got 10 replys none from Parker, Reliable was lowest by $3000.00 (Gee, I hated those A's thought they were so ugly)
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Keep in mind that the person working the service desk is on commission.
90K miles is the factory recommended replacement interval for the timing belt and that is when you should do it. However, at that same time you should also replace the water pump, thermostat, idler pulley, serpentine belt tensioner and check/replace cam and crank seals. The T-belt is a major item and these other items are nearby so it's a perfect time to replace them, while you're torn down that far.
90K miles is the factory recommended replacement interval for the timing belt and that is when you should do it. However, at that same time you should also replace the water pump, thermostat, idler pulley, serpentine belt tensioner and check/replace cam and crank seals. The T-belt is a major item and these other items are nearby so it's a perfect time to replace them, while you're torn down that far.
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I might start a new thread, but do you know what's the deal with the valves? I know they're mechanical, so they must require adjustment (or at least a check), right? I wonder what type of valve actuation my V8 has: shim-under-bucket, threaded adjusters, or shim-over-bucket? Just not desmodromic please!
I wouldn't mind paying $200 more for chain-driven cams and hydraulic valve lifters, but dealers must love the way they're (I'm doing mine when it's time).
Thanks guys!
BTW, my dealer also says 60K for the timing belt, but that's crap IMO. What's "severe" anyway? Engine temp is always the same regardless of ambient temp, and I don't think occasional revs matter much, so what's the criteria from 90 to 60K?. I might do it at 60K, but just because of age rather than mileage (I have 11K on my 98 now).
I wouldn't mind paying $200 more for chain-driven cams and hydraulic valve lifters, but dealers must love the way they're (I'm doing mine when it's time).
Thanks guys!
BTW, my dealer also says 60K for the timing belt, but that's crap IMO. What's "severe" anyway? Engine temp is always the same regardless of ambient temp, and I don't think occasional revs matter much, so what's the criteria from 90 to 60K?. I might do it at 60K, but just because of age rather than mileage (I have 11K on my 98 now).
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Hey Pops, thanks for the 90K reinforcement.
On the valves, why you say can't do them by myself? I've always done my motorcycles' valves, and the shim-under-bucket type are the most difficult, since cams have to come out, but other than time-consuming, it's not that difficult (service manual is a must, obviously). Or are you talking about where to get the shims? That would be a very valid point, since you don't know what you need until you opened up the engine, huh? Or very expensive special tools? I like those challenges, and since it would be done only once (if at all), I always choose the cheapest alternative: dealer vs cost of all tools and parts (my dealer charges $1K for the job; ouch!).
By the way, when do they have to be checked? If they're due at 90K, along with the belt, good news, because I don't think I'll have the car that long (heck, 12K in 4 years equates to 28 years before it's time, he he); I would either be dead or own a sports car by then.
Take care.
On the valves, why you say can't do them by myself? I've always done my motorcycles' valves, and the shim-under-bucket type are the most difficult, since cams have to come out, but other than time-consuming, it's not that difficult (service manual is a must, obviously). Or are you talking about where to get the shims? That would be a very valid point, since you don't know what you need until you opened up the engine, huh? Or very expensive special tools? I like those challenges, and since it would be done only once (if at all), I always choose the cheapest alternative: dealer vs cost of all tools and parts (my dealer charges $1K for the job; ouch!).
By the way, when do they have to be checked? If they're due at 90K, along with the belt, good news, because I don't think I'll have the car that long (heck, 12K in 4 years equates to 28 years before it's time, he he); I would either be dead or own a sports car by then.
Take care.
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Yes the shims will be hard too get. not only finding out what sizes you need, but the dealer might not stock all the ones you need. the shims we use are in a roll around cabinet and I don't believe the parts dept really knows how to charge them out. you know when you use one you put one back,yes that is right, we put used shims in a customers car,but as far as I know we don't charge any parts(shims) just gaskets
I would recommend to adjust them at 120k,at 60 service use your ears,called an audible check
You don't have to take the cams out,there are tools that are not that expensive, unless you have a 98 or newer then it is a pain in the &*&*& . use your ears or pay the money
I would recommend to adjust them at 120k,at 60 service use your ears,called an audible check
You don't have to take the cams out,there are tools that are not that expensive, unless you have a 98 or newer then it is a pain in the &*&*& . use your ears or pay the money
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Thanks buddy, and yes, mine is a '98, and I knew variable-valve timing was going to make maintenance more difficult.
the good news is that I don't have to worry about belts and valves until 90K miles (where I would do both); the bad news is that the service would cost more than the car by then.
the good news is that I don't have to worry about belts and valves until 90K miles (where I would do both); the bad news is that the service would cost more than the car by then.
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socalpat
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01-22-06 08:18 AM