New Oil Approved by Lexus
#61
Super Moderator
See I think doing this kind of thing is nuts. Lexus engineers designed these vehicles to work with the componets and at the temp's they designed into the vehicle. When you start changing these things you do more harm then good. It's like blending your own oil and thinking that since you mixed Mobil 1 with royal purple and a little extra additives you now have a super mix that will make your engine last longer. Just the opposite you have garbage that can harm your engine. Guys leave the auto engineering to the auto engineers.
The jury is still out on what I do, but keep in mind my main goal is performance not necessarily endurance. Some mods you have to pay really close attention to, and with most things I do, they are do at your own risk. However, by doing so we understand better the limits of our vehicles.
Thus, everyone benefits from my insanity.
#63
Centistroke, one of the unit to measure viscosity. cSt is the industry standard, though some labs (such as Blackstone) report in Saybolt Universal Seconds (SUS). PM me if you need to convert SUS to cSt.
#64
Lexus Champion
No problem with Lexmax doing his thing, just wanting to let the members that might not "know" that what he is doing is risky with marginal or negative results.
#65
Super Moderator
Actually you are right on negative results (and that would thus include marginal). With some of my early intake designs, I actually lost power. It is always a work in progress. Another thing that occurs is that when I initially add modifications, the ECM (and those Toyota/Lexus ECMs are a PITA) will attempt to fight and minimalize the gains. It kind of reminds me of slow mountain trek where you slip a little each time up the mountain, but still are a little higher than you were before.
#66
Lexus Champion
Actually you are right on negative results (and that would thus include marginal). With some of my early intake designs, I actually lost power. It is always a work in progress. Another thing that occurs is that when I initially add modifications, the ECM (and those Toyota/Lexus ECMs are a PITA) will attempt to fight and minimalize the gains. It kind of reminds me of slow mountain trek where you slip a little each time up the mountain, but still are a little higher than you were before.
#67
Lead Lap
I'm with Koolaidman on the not feeling that for "all around use" the 5w20 is the better choice.
I'm sticking with 5w30 synthetic all year round and know I don't have to keeping checking the oil level every full tank of gas
see the link
http://www.synlube.com/sae5w-20.htm
I'm sticking with 5w30 synthetic all year round and know I don't have to keeping checking the oil level every full tank of gas
see the link
http://www.synlube.com/sae5w-20.htm
#68
I'm with Koolaidman on the not feeling that for "all around use" the 5w20 is the better choice.
I'm sticking with 5w30 synthetic all year round and know I don't have to keeping checking the oil level every full tank of gas
see the link
http://www.synlube.com/sae5w-20.htm
I'm sticking with 5w30 synthetic all year round and know I don't have to keeping checking the oil level every full tank of gas
see the link
http://www.synlube.com/sae5w-20.htm
Here is a thread, just opinions from internet forum members like you and me. But nevertheless it is a start. Enjoy
http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/...c;f=1;t=011708
Last edited by TunedRX300; 08-22-06 at 04:41 PM.
#69
Lead Lap
Hey TunedRx300,
even though we don't agree on this one, rest assured that I have seen many of your previous posts and your opinions and experiences do deserve merit and respect.
Kudos for TunedRx300 for standing by his posts and please continue to provide other members your valuable input.
Cheers,
Fern
even though we don't agree on this one, rest assured that I have seen many of your previous posts and your opinions and experiences do deserve merit and respect.
Kudos for TunedRx300 for standing by his posts and please continue to provide other members your valuable input.
Cheers,
Fern
#71
*BUMP*
fern... answer! where you from, in canada? :P
TunedRX: I've got a question for you now. I've been doing alot of oil talking and reading. I understand Castrol Syntec is not a true group 4 (or 5) synthetic, but rather, a group 3 refined petrolium-based oil.
BUT, I have been told (by a few different people, some of which work in this field) that Castrol Syntec 0w30 formula, which says "Made In Germany" on the back is an actual group 4 true synthetic. I also understand that all of Castrol's "synthetic" lines are group 4 in europe, because there it is not legal to call a group 3 a true synthetic.
A) Can you confirm this?
B) What do you have to say about using 0w30? For me, specifically.
I've got a 92' SC400. I've told you this story before, but I don't expect you to remember. Anyways, here goes: for the longest time, my Dad was running Castrol Syntec 5w50 in the SC. Why? Don't ask me. I think he just bought a bunch of cases of it from Costco when it was on sale, and didn't pay attention to the viscosity at all... just saw it was synthetic. So when I noticed this, I immediately discontinued use of this oil, and put in a fresh batch of Miqui-Moly 5w40, which is a class 4 true synthetic. My plan was to ride this oil for a few thousand KM's... say 3000 or so... then do an engline flush and put in some good 5w30 group 4 oil, like Mobil1 or Royal Purple. But then I saw this thread... people talking about 5w20 or even 0w20. But I wasn't too sure if I was comfortable with that idea. So, what about 0w30?
fern... answer! where you from, in canada? :P
TunedRX: I've got a question for you now. I've been doing alot of oil talking and reading. I understand Castrol Syntec is not a true group 4 (or 5) synthetic, but rather, a group 3 refined petrolium-based oil.
BUT, I have been told (by a few different people, some of which work in this field) that Castrol Syntec 0w30 formula, which says "Made In Germany" on the back is an actual group 4 true synthetic. I also understand that all of Castrol's "synthetic" lines are group 4 in europe, because there it is not legal to call a group 3 a true synthetic.
A) Can you confirm this?
B) What do you have to say about using 0w30? For me, specifically.
I've got a 92' SC400. I've told you this story before, but I don't expect you to remember. Anyways, here goes: for the longest time, my Dad was running Castrol Syntec 5w50 in the SC. Why? Don't ask me. I think he just bought a bunch of cases of it from Costco when it was on sale, and didn't pay attention to the viscosity at all... just saw it was synthetic. So when I noticed this, I immediately discontinued use of this oil, and put in a fresh batch of Miqui-Moly 5w40, which is a class 4 true synthetic. My plan was to ride this oil for a few thousand KM's... say 3000 or so... then do an engline flush and put in some good 5w30 group 4 oil, like Mobil1 or Royal Purple. But then I saw this thread... people talking about 5w20 or even 0w20. But I wasn't too sure if I was comfortable with that idea. So, what about 0w30?
#72
Lexus Champion
*BUMP*
fern... answer! where you from, in canada? :P
TunedRX: I've got a question for you now. I've been doing alot of oil talking and reading. I understand Castrol Syntec is not a true group 4 (or 5) synthetic, but rather, a group 3 refined petrolium-based oil.
BUT, I have been told (by a few different people, some of which work in this field) that Castrol Syntec 0w30 formula, which says "Made In Germany" on the back is an actual group 4 true synthetic. I also understand that all of Castrol's "synthetic" lines are group 4 in europe, because there it is not legal to call a group 3 a true synthetic.
A) Can you confirm this?
B) What do you have to say about using 0w30? For me, specifically.
I've got a 92' SC400. I've told you this story before, but I don't expect you to remember. Anyways, here goes: for the longest time, my Dad was running Castrol Syntec 5w50 in the SC. Why? Don't ask me. I think he just bought a bunch of cases of it from Costco when it was on sale, and didn't pay attention to the viscosity at all... just saw it was synthetic. So when I noticed this, I immediately discontinued use of this oil, and put in a fresh batch of Miqui-Moly 5w40, which is a class 4 true synthetic. My plan was to ride this oil for a few thousand KM's... say 3000 or so... then do an engline flush and put in some good 5w30 group 4 oil, like Mobil1 or Royal Purple. But then I saw this thread... people talking about 5w20 or even 0w20. But I wasn't too sure if I was comfortable with that idea. So, what about 0w30?
fern... answer! where you from, in canada? :P
TunedRX: I've got a question for you now. I've been doing alot of oil talking and reading. I understand Castrol Syntec is not a true group 4 (or 5) synthetic, but rather, a group 3 refined petrolium-based oil.
BUT, I have been told (by a few different people, some of which work in this field) that Castrol Syntec 0w30 formula, which says "Made In Germany" on the back is an actual group 4 true synthetic. I also understand that all of Castrol's "synthetic" lines are group 4 in europe, because there it is not legal to call a group 3 a true synthetic.
A) Can you confirm this?
B) What do you have to say about using 0w30? For me, specifically.
I've got a 92' SC400. I've told you this story before, but I don't expect you to remember. Anyways, here goes: for the longest time, my Dad was running Castrol Syntec 5w50 in the SC. Why? Don't ask me. I think he just bought a bunch of cases of it from Costco when it was on sale, and didn't pay attention to the viscosity at all... just saw it was synthetic. So when I noticed this, I immediately discontinued use of this oil, and put in a fresh batch of Miqui-Moly 5w40, which is a class 4 true synthetic. My plan was to ride this oil for a few thousand KM's... say 3000 or so... then do an engline flush and put in some good 5w30 group 4 oil, like Mobil1 or Royal Purple. But then I saw this thread... people talking about 5w20 or even 0w20. But I wasn't too sure if I was comfortable with that idea. So, what about 0w30?
#73
TunedRX: I've got a question for you now. I've been doing alot of oil talking and reading. I understand Castrol Syntec is not a true group 4 (or 5) synthetic, but rather, a group 3 refined petrolium-based oil.
BUT, I have been told (by a few different people, some of which work in this field) that Castrol Syntec 0w30 formula, which says "Made In Germany" on the back is an actual group 4 true synthetic. I also understand that all of Castrol's "synthetic" lines are group 4 in europe, because there it is not legal to call a group 3 a true synthetic.
A) Can you confirm this?
B) What do you have to say about using 0w30? For me, specifically.
I've got a 92' SC400. I've told you this story before, but I don't expect you to remember. Anyways, here goes: for the longest time, my Dad was running Castrol Syntec 5w50 in the SC. Why? Don't ask me. I think he just bought a bunch of cases of it from Costco when it was on sale, and didn't pay attention to the viscosity at all... just saw it was synthetic. So when I noticed this, I immediately discontinued use of this oil, and put in a fresh batch of Miqui-Moly 5w40, which is a class 4 true synthetic. My plan was to ride this oil for a few thousand KM's... say 3000 or so... then do an engline flush and put in some good 5w30 group 4 oil, like Mobil1 or Royal Purple. But then I saw this thread... people talking about 5w20 or even 0w20. But I wasn't too sure if I was comfortable with that idea. So, what about 0w30?
BUT, I have been told (by a few different people, some of which work in this field) that Castrol Syntec 0w30 formula, which says "Made In Germany" on the back is an actual group 4 true synthetic. I also understand that all of Castrol's "synthetic" lines are group 4 in europe, because there it is not legal to call a group 3 a true synthetic.
A) Can you confirm this?
B) What do you have to say about using 0w30? For me, specifically.
I've got a 92' SC400. I've told you this story before, but I don't expect you to remember. Anyways, here goes: for the longest time, my Dad was running Castrol Syntec 5w50 in the SC. Why? Don't ask me. I think he just bought a bunch of cases of it from Costco when it was on sale, and didn't pay attention to the viscosity at all... just saw it was synthetic. So when I noticed this, I immediately discontinued use of this oil, and put in a fresh batch of Miqui-Moly 5w40, which is a class 4 true synthetic. My plan was to ride this oil for a few thousand KM's... say 3000 or so... then do an engline flush and put in some good 5w30 group 4 oil, like Mobil1 or Royal Purple. But then I saw this thread... people talking about 5w20 or even 0w20. But I wasn't too sure if I was comfortable with that idea. So, what about 0w30?
On B), Seems you have a high mileage V8, if you are concerned about sludge/vanish buildup, it is worth to do Auto-RX. I would not use harsh additives. But I don't think you need to flush eninge just to change weight or switch brand. You can check major oil companies' recommendation but so far I don't see any requirement of such procedure. Toyota V8 is pretty much bullet proof in term of wear, so usage of oil is not as critical as us 1mzfe (under sludge extended warranty) owners.
0w30 is actually pretty good oil, if I have to run a 30 weight oil, my first choice would be 0w30. That said, you really have to research on which one is better for your personal preference. For example, SAE weight is a range, you need to check the spec if viscosity is important to you. Mobil reformulated 0w30 when it changed base oil to group IV, its viscosity actually is higher than M1 5w30 at 40 degree C (M1 0w30 used to be lower).
http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lub...bil1_0W-30.asp
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...bil1_5W-30.asp
Amsoil's best oil is 0w30 but I am not comfortable of its 25K oil change interval claim unless I can back it up with UOA for my own driving style and car. It does have one of the highest TBN additive package on the market, but Amsoil oil tend to thicken up as you put on miles on the oil. Even though the oil may have enough acid neutralization additive for your V8, the viscosity may not be what you desire.
Drawback on 0w30 is avaliability, you won't see 0w30 5 quart jar on Walmart's shelf. The same applies to 0w20 and 5w20 oils. The other thing is Mobil does not have Extend Performance (higher TBN) oil for 0w30, 5w20, 0w20 weights, if staying with Mobil is important to you.
As another member posted earlier, Mobil oil and Toyota engine are marriage made in heaven. I would give Mobil 0w30 a try and send a sample for spectro analysis. That will give you peace of mind and a good baseline, if you want to try other brand or 20 weight oil in the future.
Last edited by TunedRX300; 08-30-06 at 02:19 PM.
#74
uh huh, i see
i think the safest bet would be to stick with Mobil1 5w30 and call it a day.
oh, and on a side note, my V8 is NOT high mileage. it's a '92 with only 80,000 miles on it.
i think the safest bet would be to stick with Mobil1 5w30 and call it a day.
oh, and on a side note, my V8 is NOT high mileage. it's a '92 with only 80,000 miles on it.
#75
Lead Lap