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Oil Analysis for Supercharged Engine

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Old 04-05-07, 06:35 PM
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Mr Johnson
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Default Oil Analysis for Supercharged Engine

Finally got around to doing an oil analysis on my engine when I changed the oil the last time. Didn't know what to expect but it looks good.
Attached Thumbnails Oil Analysis for Supercharged Engine-oil.gif  
Old 04-05-07, 09:34 PM
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TunedRX300
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Oil is sheared to 8.8 cSt @ 100º C, M1 5w-30 virgin oil should be 11.1 cSt
Flash point also decreased from 230º C to 218º C.
http://www.mobil1.com/USA-English/Lu...bil1_5W-30.asp

Both are important indicator that the physical property of M1 5w-30 has changed during usage. Actually your SCed engine needs better oil to for oxdiation resistance and flash point protection due to hotter operating temperature.
I would try German Casstrol, a Group IV PAO based true synthetic oil.
What batch your M1 5w-30?
Old 04-05-07, 10:46 PM
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Originally Posted by TunedRX300
Oil is sheared to 8.8 cSt @ 100º C, M1 5w-30 virgin oil should be 11.1 cSt
Flash point also decreased from 230º C to 218º C.
http://www.mobil1.com/USA-English/Lu...bil1_5W-30.asp

Both are important indicator that the physical property of M1 5w-30 has changed during usage. Actually your SCed engine needs better oil to for oxdiation resistance and flash point protection due to hotter operating temperature.
I would try German Casstrol, a Group IV PAO based true synthetic oil.
What batch your M1 5w-30?
show me one piece of evidence that proves that any of that is truly better...

stock fords used to come supercharged and standard dino oil... failure on those motors is very rare...

my 500 whp talon lasted 160k miles on Mobil 1 before it finally wore out a bearing (at 26+ psi boost).... better oil - not gonna make that much difference, and probably none noticeable...

supercharged engines don't run any hotter than a standard gas engine - they don't circulate oil through the supercharger, and it's no different than having a high compression ratio motor...

turbo charged motors, on the other hand, heat up the oil pretty good, but nothing a good oil cooler doesn't take care of...

and as far as flash point - 420 degrees should be sufficient for ANY motor...
Old 04-05-07, 11:37 PM
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TunedRX300
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Originally Posted by mitsuguy
show me one piece of evidence that proves that any of that is truly better...

stock fords used to come supercharged and standard dino oil... failure on those motors is very rare...

my 500 whp talon lasted 160k miles on Mobil 1 before it finally wore out a bearing (at 26+ psi boost).... better oil - not gonna make that much difference, and probably none noticeable...

supercharged engines don't run any hotter than a standard gas engine - they don't circulate oil through the supercharger, and it's no different than having a high compression ratio motor...

turbo charged motors, on the other hand, heat up the oil pretty good, but nothing a good oil cooler doesn't take care of...

and as far as flash point - 420 degrees should be sufficient for ANY motor...
Great that you got 160K out of your Talon. Then how can you prove better oil won't give you additional miles? Do you have UOAs and compare metal wear (esp Pb) levels of one oil vs. another?

I forgot to give kudos to Mr Johnson for posting his UOA. Also my suggestion is not in any way to criticize his oil choice. It is just a recommendation.

Back on topic, I am not really concerned about specific values, but the trend of flash point decrease AND oil shearing indicate physical property of the oil has changed. For most folks do UOA, short term engine failure is not an expected issue, but they want better protection on maybe the most expensive component in the car. For example, people spend $20 for an UOA to gain information even though they know their engine can fire up anytime, but having additional protection out of a premium oil is one of the benefits they expected.

M1 5w-30 SM oil is >$6 per quart, my question is would you be comfortable to spend that $ and have the UOA showing a 30 weight synthetic oil sheared down to 20 weight oil? When did the shearing start? Would it stop at 8.8 cSt or become even thinner later @ 4-5K?

GC any better? No one knows unless the owner takes another UOA @ 2.6K later.

For 1mzfe this UOA showed GC IS better than M1 10w-30
http://theoildrop.server101.com/foru...&Number=241614

Again, I am simply making a recommendation, it is up to the thread starter to make a decision. One thing I know for sure, GC is cheaper @$4.49 per quart.
http://theoildrop.server101.com/foru...e=1#Post844588
Peace!

Last edited by TunedRX300; 04-06-07 at 12:35 AM.
Old 04-06-07, 07:01 AM
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mitsuguy
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Originally Posted by TunedRX300
Great that you got 160K out of your Talon. Then how can you prove better oil won't give you additional miles? Do you have UOAs and compare metal wear (esp Pb) levels of one oil vs. another?

I forgot to give kudos to Mr Johnson for posting his UOA. Also my suggestion is not in any way to criticize his oil choice. It is just a recommendation.

Back on topic, I am not really concerned about specific values, but the trend of flash point decrease AND oil shearing indicate physical property of the oil has changed. For most folks do UOA, short term engine failure is not an expected issue, but they want better protection on maybe the most expensive component in the car. For example, people spend $20 for an UOA to gain information even though they know their engine can fire up anytime, but having additional protection out of a premium oil is one of the benefits they expected.

M1 5w-30 SM oil is >$6 per quart, my question is would you be comfortable to spend that $ and have the UOA showing a 30 weight synthetic oil sheared down to 20 weight oil? When did the shearing start? Would it stop at 8.8 cSt or become even thinner later @ 4-5K?

GC any better? No one knows unless the owner takes another UOA @ 2.6K later.

For 1mzfe this UOA showed GC IS better than M1 10w-30
http://theoildrop.server101.com/foru...&Number=241614

Again, I am simply making a recommendation, it is up to the thread starter to make a decision. One thing I know for sure, GC is cheaper @$4.49 per quart.
http://theoildrop.server101.com/foru...e=1#Post844588
Peace!
Eh, sure, so, some of the numbers look a little better - and don't get me wrong, I either use Castrol Syntec or Mobil1 in all of my own cars, but... what gets me, is that we do fleet administration for a company called Quest Diagnostics - they have about 100 cars, and we change the oil in them every 7500 miles since new (per their service agreement), and many of these cars are 2-3 years old and have 250k plus miles on them, and not a single one has had an oil related failure... thing is, we use strictly bulk 10W-30 Castrol oil (even when the cars call for 5-20 or 5-30 (terms of the agreement), and we go well more than the recommended interval... they are driven in 75% or better stop and go driving in Las Vegas, where summer temps are well into the 110-120's, it's a dry, dusty environment, about as harsh of a condition as you can live in... yet no oil related failures at all... the cars are driven hard (we sometimes replace brakes on them around 12-15k) and they go through tires like nobody's business...

it's just one of those things...
Old 04-06-07, 07:51 AM
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FWIW: This was from oil run during the "clear" days in winter. Some harsh days that this thing ran in during that time. The oil does recirculate through the SC so I am quite pleased with the results.

With that comment, could it be better? Probably. But I've been pleased with the Royal Purple and Mobil 1 that I've used so far. I don't plan on and have never run for intervals that could lead to a continued breakdown of the oil. It just doesn't make sense knowing what I put the oil through. For my next oil change for the summer (not the one in there now) I plan on running either a 10W40 or 5W40 oil this summer. I'm thinking either Royal Purple (because I've liked what I've used before) or I'll try Agip.

I appreciate the feedback.

Edit: The 5W30 was from the full synthetic batches.

Edit2: I just checked out your link with the discount on the Castrol. I'll see if that is still available in the area and pick some up.

Last edited by Mr Johnson; 04-06-07 at 07:55 AM.
Old 04-06-07, 07:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Mr Johnson
FWIW: This was from oil run during the "clear" days in winter. Some harsh days that this thing ran in during that time. The oil does recirculate through the SC so I am quite pleased with the results.

With that comment, could it be better? Probably. But I've been pleased with the Royal Purple and Mobil 1 that I've used so far. I don't plan on and have never run for intervals that could lead to a continued breakdown of the oil. It just doesn't make sense knowing what I put the oil through. For my next oil change for the summer (not the one in there now) I plan on running either a 10W40 or 5W40 oil this summer. I'm thinking either Royal Purple (because I've liked what I've used before) or I'll try Agip.

I appreciate the feedback.

Edit: The 5W30 was from the full synthetic batches.

Edit2: I just checked out your link with the discount on the Castrol. I'll see if that is still available in the area and pick some up.
what supercharger are you using that uses engine oil???
Old 04-06-07, 09:25 AM
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Probably one of the vortech variant supercharger. It's needs the engine's oil supply to lubricate itself.
Old 04-06-07, 02:58 PM
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TunedRX300
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Mr Johnson,
Autozone deal ended yesterday, German Castrol is one of the thickest 30 weight oil @ 12.1 cSt, 40 weight oil starts @ 12.5 cSt.
I personally prefer M1 SL 0w-20 for winter usage, GC is only for summer usage in my RX300. I like 20 weight oil, but prefer to pour it down myself and stay as 20 weight oil. Interestingly, for 1mz-fe, most 5w-30 dino will shear down to 20 weight oil quickly.
I heard RP shear easily in a NA engine, never use it myself but it would be interesting to see how it does in your SC.

mitsuguy,
Thanks for sharing your fleet management experience, many modern engines will do fine with Group II dino if all one wants is no engine failure. But keep in mind non-commercial drivers may have different requirements. For example, most leisure drivers want 1) higher mpg because instead of a company, we have to pay gas $ out of our pockets; 2) low engine noise and silky smooth feeling, because cars are not just for transportation, but also used for business/fashion/enjoyment. 3) different usage: in Mr Johnson's case, SC requires additional oil usage, I doubt any fleet car will ever be modified...
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