Oil Analysis for Supercharged Engine
#1
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Finally got around to doing an oil analysis on my engine when I changed the oil the last time. Didn't know what to expect but it looks good.
#2
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Oil is sheared to 8.8 cSt @ 100º C, M1 5w-30 virgin oil should be 11.1 cSt
Flash point also decreased from 230º C to 218º C.
http://www.mobil1.com/USA-English/Lu...bil1_5W-30.asp
Both are important indicator that the physical property of M1 5w-30 has changed during usage. Actually your SCed engine needs better oil to for oxdiation resistance and flash point protection due to hotter operating temperature.
I would try German Casstrol, a Group IV PAO based true synthetic oil.
What batch your M1 5w-30?
Flash point also decreased from 230º C to 218º C.
http://www.mobil1.com/USA-English/Lu...bil1_5W-30.asp
Both are important indicator that the physical property of M1 5w-30 has changed during usage. Actually your SCed engine needs better oil to for oxdiation resistance and flash point protection due to hotter operating temperature.
I would try German Casstrol, a Group IV PAO based true synthetic oil.
What batch your M1 5w-30?
#3
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Oil is sheared to 8.8 cSt @ 100º C, M1 5w-30 virgin oil should be 11.1 cSt
Flash point also decreased from 230º C to 218º C.
http://www.mobil1.com/USA-English/Lu...bil1_5W-30.asp
Both are important indicator that the physical property of M1 5w-30 has changed during usage. Actually your SCed engine needs better oil to for oxdiation resistance and flash point protection due to hotter operating temperature.
I would try German Casstrol, a Group IV PAO based true synthetic oil.
What batch your M1 5w-30?
Flash point also decreased from 230º C to 218º C.
http://www.mobil1.com/USA-English/Lu...bil1_5W-30.asp
Both are important indicator that the physical property of M1 5w-30 has changed during usage. Actually your SCed engine needs better oil to for oxdiation resistance and flash point protection due to hotter operating temperature.
I would try German Casstrol, a Group IV PAO based true synthetic oil.
What batch your M1 5w-30?
stock fords used to come supercharged and standard dino oil... failure on those motors is very rare...
my 500 whp talon lasted 160k miles on Mobil 1 before it finally wore out a bearing (at 26+ psi boost).... better oil - not gonna make that much difference, and probably none noticeable...
supercharged engines don't run any hotter than a standard gas engine - they don't circulate oil through the supercharger, and it's no different than having a high compression ratio motor...
turbo charged motors, on the other hand, heat up the oil pretty good, but nothing a good oil cooler doesn't take care of...
and as far as flash point - 420 degrees should be sufficient for ANY motor...
#4
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show me one piece of evidence that proves that any of that is truly better...
stock fords used to come supercharged and standard dino oil... failure on those motors is very rare...
my 500 whp talon lasted 160k miles on Mobil 1 before it finally wore out a bearing (at 26+ psi boost).... better oil - not gonna make that much difference, and probably none noticeable...
supercharged engines don't run any hotter than a standard gas engine - they don't circulate oil through the supercharger, and it's no different than having a high compression ratio motor...
turbo charged motors, on the other hand, heat up the oil pretty good, but nothing a good oil cooler doesn't take care of...
and as far as flash point - 420 degrees should be sufficient for ANY motor...
stock fords used to come supercharged and standard dino oil... failure on those motors is very rare...
my 500 whp talon lasted 160k miles on Mobil 1 before it finally wore out a bearing (at 26+ psi boost).... better oil - not gonna make that much difference, and probably none noticeable...
supercharged engines don't run any hotter than a standard gas engine - they don't circulate oil through the supercharger, and it's no different than having a high compression ratio motor...
turbo charged motors, on the other hand, heat up the oil pretty good, but nothing a good oil cooler doesn't take care of...
and as far as flash point - 420 degrees should be sufficient for ANY motor...
I forgot to give kudos to Mr Johnson for posting his UOA. Also my suggestion is not in any way to criticize his oil choice. It is just a recommendation.
Back on topic, I am not really concerned about specific values, but the trend of flash point decrease AND oil shearing indicate physical property of the oil has changed. For most folks do UOA, short term engine failure is not an expected issue, but they want better protection on maybe the most expensive component in the car. For example, people spend $20 for an UOA to gain information even though they know their engine can fire up anytime, but having additional protection out of a premium oil is one of the benefits they expected.
M1 5w-30 SM oil is >$6 per quart, my question is would you be comfortable to spend that $ and have the UOA showing a 30 weight synthetic oil sheared down to 20 weight oil? When did the shearing start? Would it stop at 8.8 cSt or become even thinner later @ 4-5K?
GC any better? No one knows unless the owner takes another UOA @ 2.6K later.
For 1mzfe this UOA showed GC IS better than M1 10w-30
http://theoildrop.server101.com/foru...&Number=241614
Again, I am simply making a recommendation, it is up to the thread starter to make a decision. One thing I know for sure, GC is cheaper @$4.49 per quart.
http://theoildrop.server101.com/foru...e=1#Post844588
Peace!
Last edited by TunedRX300; 04-06-07 at 12:35 AM.
#5
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Great that you got 160K out of your Talon. Then how can you prove better oil won't give you additional miles? Do you have UOAs and compare metal wear (esp Pb) levels of one oil vs. another?
I forgot to give kudos to Mr Johnson for posting his UOA. Also my suggestion is not in any way to criticize his oil choice. It is just a recommendation.
Back on topic, I am not really concerned about specific values, but the trend of flash point decrease AND oil shearing indicate physical property of the oil has changed. For most folks do UOA, short term engine failure is not an expected issue, but they want better protection on maybe the most expensive component in the car. For example, people spend $20 for an UOA to gain information even though they know their engine can fire up anytime, but having additional protection out of a premium oil is one of the benefits they expected.
M1 5w-30 SM oil is >$6 per quart, my question is would you be comfortable to spend that $ and have the UOA showing a 30 weight synthetic oil sheared down to 20 weight oil? When did the shearing start? Would it stop at 8.8 cSt or become even thinner later @ 4-5K?
GC any better? No one knows unless the owner takes another UOA @ 2.6K later.
For 1mzfe this UOA showed GC IS better than M1 10w-30
http://theoildrop.server101.com/foru...&Number=241614
Again, I am simply making a recommendation, it is up to the thread starter to make a decision. One thing I know for sure, GC is cheaper @$4.49 per quart.
http://theoildrop.server101.com/foru...e=1#Post844588
Peace!
I forgot to give kudos to Mr Johnson for posting his UOA. Also my suggestion is not in any way to criticize his oil choice. It is just a recommendation.
Back on topic, I am not really concerned about specific values, but the trend of flash point decrease AND oil shearing indicate physical property of the oil has changed. For most folks do UOA, short term engine failure is not an expected issue, but they want better protection on maybe the most expensive component in the car. For example, people spend $20 for an UOA to gain information even though they know their engine can fire up anytime, but having additional protection out of a premium oil is one of the benefits they expected.
M1 5w-30 SM oil is >$6 per quart, my question is would you be comfortable to spend that $ and have the UOA showing a 30 weight synthetic oil sheared down to 20 weight oil? When did the shearing start? Would it stop at 8.8 cSt or become even thinner later @ 4-5K?
GC any better? No one knows unless the owner takes another UOA @ 2.6K later.
For 1mzfe this UOA showed GC IS better than M1 10w-30
http://theoildrop.server101.com/foru...&Number=241614
Again, I am simply making a recommendation, it is up to the thread starter to make a decision. One thing I know for sure, GC is cheaper @$4.49 per quart.
http://theoildrop.server101.com/foru...e=1#Post844588
Peace!
it's just one of those things...
#6
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FWIW: This was from oil run during the "clear" days in winter. Some harsh days that this thing ran in during that time. The oil does recirculate through the SC so I am quite pleased with the results.
With that comment, could it be better? Probably. But I've been pleased with the Royal Purple and Mobil 1 that I've used so far. I don't plan on and have never run for intervals that could lead to a continued breakdown of the oil. It just doesn't make sense knowing what I put the oil through. For my next oil change for the summer (not the one in there now) I plan on running either a 10W40 or 5W40 oil this summer. I'm thinking either Royal Purple (because I've liked what I've used before) or I'll try Agip.
I appreciate the feedback.
Edit: The 5W30 was from the full synthetic batches.
Edit2: I just checked out your link with the discount on the Castrol. I'll see if that is still available in the area and pick some up.
With that comment, could it be better? Probably. But I've been pleased with the Royal Purple and Mobil 1 that I've used so far. I don't plan on and have never run for intervals that could lead to a continued breakdown of the oil. It just doesn't make sense knowing what I put the oil through. For my next oil change for the summer (not the one in there now) I plan on running either a 10W40 or 5W40 oil this summer. I'm thinking either Royal Purple (because I've liked what I've used before) or I'll try Agip.
I appreciate the feedback.
Edit: The 5W30 was from the full synthetic batches.
Edit2: I just checked out your link with the discount on the Castrol. I'll see if that is still available in the area and pick some up.
Last edited by Mr Johnson; 04-06-07 at 07:55 AM.
#7
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FWIW: This was from oil run during the "clear" days in winter. Some harsh days that this thing ran in during that time. The oil does recirculate through the SC so I am quite pleased with the results.
With that comment, could it be better? Probably. But I've been pleased with the Royal Purple and Mobil 1 that I've used so far. I don't plan on and have never run for intervals that could lead to a continued breakdown of the oil. It just doesn't make sense knowing what I put the oil through. For my next oil change for the summer (not the one in there now) I plan on running either a 10W40 or 5W40 oil this summer. I'm thinking either Royal Purple (because I've liked what I've used before) or I'll try Agip.
I appreciate the feedback.
Edit: The 5W30 was from the full synthetic batches.
Edit2: I just checked out your link with the discount on the Castrol. I'll see if that is still available in the area and pick some up.
With that comment, could it be better? Probably. But I've been pleased with the Royal Purple and Mobil 1 that I've used so far. I don't plan on and have never run for intervals that could lead to a continued breakdown of the oil. It just doesn't make sense knowing what I put the oil through. For my next oil change for the summer (not the one in there now) I plan on running either a 10W40 or 5W40 oil this summer. I'm thinking either Royal Purple (because I've liked what I've used before) or I'll try Agip.
I appreciate the feedback.
Edit: The 5W30 was from the full synthetic batches.
Edit2: I just checked out your link with the discount on the Castrol. I'll see if that is still available in the area and pick some up.
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#9
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Mr Johnson,
Autozone deal ended yesterday, German Castrol is one of the thickest 30 weight oil @ 12.1 cSt, 40 weight oil starts @ 12.5 cSt.
I personally prefer M1 SL 0w-20 for winter usage, GC is only for summer usage in my RX300. I like 20 weight oil, but prefer to pour it down myself and stay as 20 weight oil. Interestingly, for 1mz-fe, most 5w-30 dino will shear down to 20 weight oil quickly.
I heard RP shear easily in a NA engine, never use it myself but it would be interesting to see how it does in your SC.
mitsuguy,
Thanks for sharing your fleet management experience, many modern engines will do fine with Group II dino if all one wants is no engine failure. But keep in mind non-commercial drivers may have different requirements. For example, most leisure drivers want 1) higher mpg because instead of a company, we have to pay gas $ out of our pockets; 2) low engine noise and silky smooth feeling, because cars are not just for transportation, but also used for business/fashion/enjoyment. 3) different usage: in Mr Johnson's case, SC requires additional oil usage, I doubt any fleet car will ever be modified...
Autozone deal ended yesterday, German Castrol is one of the thickest 30 weight oil @ 12.1 cSt, 40 weight oil starts @ 12.5 cSt.
I personally prefer M1 SL 0w-20 for winter usage, GC is only for summer usage in my RX300. I like 20 weight oil, but prefer to pour it down myself and stay as 20 weight oil. Interestingly, for 1mz-fe, most 5w-30 dino will shear down to 20 weight oil quickly.
I heard RP shear easily in a NA engine, never use it myself but it would be interesting to see how it does in your SC.
mitsuguy,
Thanks for sharing your fleet management experience, many modern engines will do fine with Group II dino if all one wants is no engine failure. But keep in mind non-commercial drivers may have different requirements. For example, most leisure drivers want 1) higher mpg because instead of a company, we have to pay gas $ out of our pockets; 2) low engine noise and silky smooth feeling, because cars are not just for transportation, but also used for business/fashion/enjoyment. 3) different usage: in Mr Johnson's case, SC requires additional oil usage, I doubt any fleet car will ever be modified...
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