Nauticalx

I've tried everything to try and get my hub off the 01 LS430 and it WILL NOT budge. The thing is just corroded in. I put a huge plumbers wrench on it and hit it a sledge and it would not budge (rather, it bent the spindle where the lugs attach). Also, I loosened the bolts attached to it and set the wheel down on the ground and turned the wheels and the hub stayed put. I can also jack the car up by the hub with all supporting bolts removed and the corrosion will hold that hub tight. I was really hoping to do this job myself but looks like I'm gonna have to take it into the shop. Any idea on how these guys remove hubs? Is there a special tool? I still cannot believe that the corrosion between the steel hub and the alloy knuckle will hold that hub on there against the weight of the vehicle...

VVT-i

The front hub is pressed into the wheel bearing. You will need a hydraulic press to remove and install. But since you're already bend the spindle,now you will need the spindle because your camber will way out of spec. It's a lot of work to remove hub from the LS430. I always remove the brake rotor, caliper,spindle, tie rod end, lower ball joint and take the whole knuckle/spindle assembly on to the bench and press it out with hydraulic press.

I don't know why you are removing the hub(bad wheel bearing?),but at this point call around the junk yard and get a complete spindle assembly is the cheapest way to go.

No punch intent. You should ask around before you do the work yourself because you end up spend more money than the money you save. I'd seen a simple VAISTECH iPod installation gone bad because the guy want to save $150.00 installation fee and it gone bad. He end up paid $3K for the new wire harness+labor that I have to remove the dash out to replace the harness.

Nauticalx

Thanks for the response. I have the repair manual and it says nothing about the hub being pressed onto the knuckle. I know that the bearings are pressed into the hub but I obtained an entire hub. The repair manual simply shows that the hub fits into the knuckle secured with four bolts. I figure if it was pressed, it would state as such since it goes into deal on how to remove the bearing from the hub in a press but states nothing about pressing a hub into the knuckle. In fact, it shows the hub as sliding into the knuckle in the upright position, as if to indicate that it could slide in while the knuckle is on the vehicle. Yes, I am removing the hub because the bearings are shot.

Not trying to question your knowledge, but are you certain that you meant that the hub is pressed into the knuckle, as well as the bearing being pressed into the hub?

Nauticalx

Also, I don't see how you can press the hub out of the spindle because of the speed sensor on it. The instructions on how to remove the speed sensor require a tool to grab the rim of the speed sensor and the does not seem to be enough clearance between the hub and bearing to be able to remove the speed sensor with the hub in the knuckle in order to press the knuckle out without crushing the speed sensor.

Nauticalx

I just re-read the instructions and SA-14 of the repair manual says that all that is required to remove the hub is to remove the four bolts after having removed the wheel, caliper, and disc and disconnecting the speed sensor. Moreover, it shows the knuckle assembly on the vehicle. I imagine that your common practice of pressing out the hub is due to the corrosion holding the hub on and not that the hub is pressed into the knuckle. I.e., that a brand new Ls430 (if there were one) would not require a press to remove it's hub.

VVT-i

I'm sorry about my assumption because I was thinking you're removing the front hub because your post did not mention about front or rear hub.
I did the rear wheel bearing/hub assembly not too long ago and I did remove/hammer the old hub out by beating it from the inside. It will come out,but make sure to remove the wheel speed sensor,rear axle, axle nut, and all the goodies. If you're trying to remove the hub while the axle still attach on to the hub, good luck with that, because the axle will need a lot of beating with brass hammer to get it out.

Again, I'm sorry that my assumption went the wrong way....

Nauticalx

Sorry, we seem to be missing each other. I was talking about the front hub. Front left to be exact...

Nauticalx

I saw these hub remover/puller tools which are sold all over the place but they are useless for the front hubs on the LS430 because there is no center axle to push the hub out against.

Nauticalx

Yeah....I would not even touch the rear hub or axle on these things. I'm talking about the front and thought that it would be a walk in the park (no axle to mess with)...

VVT-i

I will have to find an 01 LS430 and look at it more closely. I'll get back to you soon,but I don't recall removing the 4 bolts to remove the front hub, I might be wrong.

VVT-i

Try to spray it with WD40 and let it soak for a while. You may have to beat it with a hammer from the inside out. I think the new hub will come with new speed sensor.

Nauticalx

I already sprayed almost a full can of WD-40 on that thing. Is there something out there which will penetrate that tight gap between the hub and the knuckle and dissolve the corrosion on contact? I chipped off some of the corrosion and put it in a bowl of WD-40 and it does not dissolve or weaken it. I fear that the gap is too tight for the WD-40 to penetrate because it's entirely filled (or packed) with corrosion, only something that dissolves corrosion will be able to open that gap. Also, how would a shop remove this hub anyway?

SpinAll4

Buy your self a can of PB blaster. It is designed to exactly do what your describing.

Nauticalx

You and I must have a telepathic link, aproximately when you posted on here to buy the PB Blaster, I bought it at walmart. Not knowing that was the name of the product, I went and found it and noticed that it was the very same product that I picked-out for this task. I gave it a blast earlier today when I got home with the wheel and all back on and I'll blast it again tomorrow and let it soak and then hopefully when I get around to taking the wheel and caliper back off, it will be ready to come out. I'll keep you updated....let's see if this stuff is as good as some claim it is...

GSteg

iTrader: (15)

PB is definitely better than WD-40. works better as a water displacer (WD=Water Displacement) than removing bolts that are rusted. I have PB and WD. Never really touched WD ever since buying PB.