ArmyofOne's DIY Workshop-Front Brake Pad and Rotor Replacement
03-15-09, 10:19 AM
#16
any recommendation for brake squeal?
i just replaced front brakes on my beater with EBC pads and rotors, but my brakes squeal. pads comes with shims and adhesive that stick right on the pads. didn't try to scrub new rotors with a steel wool or light sand paper though. is this the problem? or should try some squeak-stop products?
i just replaced front brakes on my beater with EBC pads and rotors, but my brakes squeal. pads comes with shims and adhesive that stick right on the pads. didn't try to scrub new rotors with a steel wool or light sand paper though. is this the problem? or should try some squeak-stop products?
03-15-09, 12:51 PM
#18
Dysfunctional Veteran
Thread Starter
any recommendation for brake squeal?
i just replaced front brakes on my beater with EBC pads and rotors, but my brakes squeal. pads comes with shims and adhesive that stick right on the pads. didn't try to scrub new rotors with a steel wool or light sand paper though. is this the problem? or should try some squeak-stop products?
i just replaced front brakes on my beater with EBC pads and rotors, but my brakes squeal. pads comes with shims and adhesive that stick right on the pads. didn't try to scrub new rotors with a steel wool or light sand paper though. is this the problem? or should try some squeak-stop products?
03-15-09, 01:41 PM
#19
03-15-09, 05:30 PM
#20
Dysfunctional Veteran
Thread Starter
Im sorry mole, I didnt mean to imply you didnt know what your were talking about, I have just been doing brakes this way for years and well, you cant teach an old dog new tricks 
03-15-09, 07:15 PM
#22
Really, just compressing the pistons and shoving the brake fluid back into the reservoir isn't such a good idea, especially on a car with ABS.
Many times the brake fluid has become contaminated with copper particles (brake fluid is highly corrosive once the corrosion inhibitors have worn out). The copper is literally leached out of the brake lines. At any rate, any other potential contamination should be pushed out the brake caliper bleeder, not back into the system. There is a potential for damage to both the ABS Hydraulic Unit and Master Cylinder. Though rare, it can happen.
Realistically, the process should be to open the bleeder at the caliper at the same time you are pressing the piston back in. Then, when complete with the brake pad replacement, add some fluid to the master cylinder and bleed the brakes at all 4 corners. This is how a reputable shop should do the work, and it is how vehicle manufacturers require it.
Many times the brake fluid has become contaminated with copper particles (brake fluid is highly corrosive once the corrosion inhibitors have worn out). The copper is literally leached out of the brake lines. At any rate, any other potential contamination should be pushed out the brake caliper bleeder, not back into the system. There is a potential for damage to both the ABS Hydraulic Unit and Master Cylinder. Though rare, it can happen.
Realistically, the process should be to open the bleeder at the caliper at the same time you are pressing the piston back in. Then, when complete with the brake pad replacement, add some fluid to the master cylinder and bleed the brakes at all 4 corners. This is how a reputable shop should do the work, and it is how vehicle manufacturers require it.
03-15-09, 10:06 PM
#23
Lexus Champion
Really, just compressing the pistons and shoving the brake fluid back into the reservoir isn't such a good idea, especially on a car with ABS.
Many times the brake fluid has become contaminated with copper particles (brake fluid is highly corrosive once the corrosion inhibitors have worn out). The copper is literally leached out of the brake lines. At any rate, any other potential contamination should be pushed out the brake caliper bleeder, not back into the system. There is a potential for damage to both the ABS Hydraulic Unit and Master Cylinder. Though rare, it can happen.
Realistically, the process should be to open the bleeder at the caliper at the same time you are pressing the piston back in. Then, when complete with the brake pad replacement, add some fluid to the master cylinder and bleed the brakes at all 4 corners. This is how a reputable shop should do the work, and it is how vehicle manufacturers require it.
Many times the brake fluid has become contaminated with copper particles (brake fluid is highly corrosive once the corrosion inhibitors have worn out). The copper is literally leached out of the brake lines. At any rate, any other potential contamination should be pushed out the brake caliper bleeder, not back into the system. There is a potential for damage to both the ABS Hydraulic Unit and Master Cylinder. Though rare, it can happen.
Realistically, the process should be to open the bleeder at the caliper at the same time you are pressing the piston back in. Then, when complete with the brake pad replacement, add some fluid to the master cylinder and bleed the brakes at all 4 corners. This is how a reputable shop should do the work, and it is how vehicle manufacturers require it.
03-15-09, 10:13 PM
#24
Is this what you are talking about:
"Warning! Before bleeding the system, high pressure must be released from the accumulator and power unit. A special ALB-T wrench (Part No. 07HAA-SG00100) or equivalent must be used to bleed the power unit valve under the red cap. System pressures may be as much as 3000 PSI. A face shield should be worn and the connections covered with a rag when bleeding the system. Note: If ABS light comes on and stays on, remove the 15 amp fuse to erase codes and turn off light."
"Warning! Before bleeding the system, high pressure must be released from the accumulator and power unit. A special ALB-T wrench (Part No. 07HAA-SG00100) or equivalent must be used to bleed the power unit valve under the red cap. System pressures may be as much as 3000 PSI. A face shield should be worn and the connections covered with a rag when bleeding the system. Note: If ABS light comes on and stays on, remove the 15 amp fuse to erase codes and turn off light."
03-16-09, 08:54 AM
#25
Lexus Champion
Is this what you are talking about:
"Warning! Before bleeding the system, high pressure must be released from the accumulator and power unit. A special ALB-T wrench (Part No. 07HAA-SG00100) or equivalent must be used to bleed the power unit valve under the red cap. System pressures may be as much as 3000 PSI. A face shield should be worn and the connections covered with a rag when bleeding the system. Note: If ABS light comes on and stays on, remove the 15 amp fuse to erase codes and turn off light."
"Warning! Before bleeding the system, high pressure must be released from the accumulator and power unit. A special ALB-T wrench (Part No. 07HAA-SG00100) or equivalent must be used to bleed the power unit valve under the red cap. System pressures may be as much as 3000 PSI. A face shield should be worn and the connections covered with a rag when bleeding the system. Note: If ABS light comes on and stays on, remove the 15 amp fuse to erase codes and turn off light."
03-16-09, 09:15 AM
#26
Lexus Champion
any recommendation for brake squeal?
i just replaced front brakes on my beater with EBC pads and rotors, but my brakes squeal. pads comes with shims and adhesive that stick right on the pads. didn't try to scrub new rotors with a steel wool or light sand paper though. is this the problem? or should try some squeak-stop products?
i just replaced front brakes on my beater with EBC pads and rotors, but my brakes squeal. pads comes with shims and adhesive that stick right on the pads. didn't try to scrub new rotors with a steel wool or light sand paper though. is this the problem? or should try some squeak-stop products?
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