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Carbon build up through throttle body.....

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Old 04-30-09, 11:33 PM
  #16  
nthach
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Originally Posted by GSteg
The GM stuff is so damn good. I dont know if they are one in the same as the Al Delco, but they were the only thing that were able to clean up GM's fuel injectors. A buddy mechanic of mine said GM vehicles often have problems with injectors clogging and only the GM/Al Delco stuff did the job. Though last I heard, we can't get it in california anymore..or maybe they have reformulated since?
You can't get it here anymore - but - go to a Chrysler dealer and ask for Mopar Combustion Chamber Cleaner. Same thing, but in a aerosol can.

One thing I did forget to say - change your oil after using GM Top Engine Cleaner or the Mopar stuff. And I did forget a critical step here - after inducting in the TEC, it's best to do it on a WARM engine, kill your engine. Let it sit for 15 minutes at the very least - the longer the better. After letting it soak in, start up your engine after reconnecting the vacuum source. The engine will smoke like a **** - it's best to do this at night, drive the car like you stole it to quickly clear things up.

Last edited by nthach; 04-30-09 at 11:39 PM.
Old 05-01-09, 08:49 AM
  #17  
sway162
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Originally Posted by raytseng
Hi Sway, I only have my own opinions, and have only used redline si-1 myself, so I defer to BobIstheOilGuy for the recommendations.

I'm not sure of STP.
The Chevron might need high doses then just one bottle, especially if it is "pro-guard" which is a low concentration formula. Either way there is no harm in running what you have through.

On BITOG, the most "popular" (this month anyway) appear to be redline si-1, amsoil PI, and Gumout Regane (there are also several products by gumout, need to be aware of which product is the strongest/best). Lucas UCL and MMO also get quite a bit of activity but those are a bit more for lubrication then cleaning.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...oard=37&page=1

Remember all this depends on if you had any deposits that needed cleaning up in the first place. It maybe even with just the chevron and stp, that is enough to have cleaned away the deposits.
Hey raytseng, thanks again for your input. It is greatly appreciated. I'm glad you mentioned BITOG. I have never heard of it and it's a great source! So far, on STP it seems like my gas mileage is a tad better. I don't know if it's exactly true but I usually get from 155-165 on a half tank of gas but with the added STP I am at 177.

Anyways, Next time I am going to try out the Redline si-1. This weekend I planned to clean out the throttle body. Can you point me to the right direction on instructions to clean the throttle body with a carburetor spray? I am rookie when it comes to cars....But I want to start doing my own mechanic work on my car. Thanks for all your help!
Old 05-01-09, 08:51 AM
  #18  
sway162
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Originally Posted by mitsuguy
No, it won't help, not immediately, maybe long term, but I doubt it... It does help clean the intake manifold a little, but, as it is added through vacuum lines, it won't do much to clean the throttle body, which is the most important part...

the carbon buildup in the intake is typically from the EGR system and PCV system... these two allow exhaust and combustion chamber blowby mixed with a light mist of oil into the intake...

the absolute best way to take care of it is to remove the intake manifold completely, strip any electrical components and connectors off of it and wash it thoroughly in a parts washer... similar process for the throttle body as well... at the same time, you would want to take a toothbrush and carburetor cleaner and clean the intake ports on the lower manifold or head... don't wanna leave any pools of cleaner, so, soak up anything remaining with towels... also, if you do it this way, probably want to change the oil, as carb cleaner is very thin and can easily seep into the combustion chamber and past the rings into the oil... when all is clean, obviously, reassemble, remove the spark plugs, crank a few times to make sure no cleaner was left in the cylinders, then reinstall the plugs, change the oil as mentioned and start her up - recommend resetting the ecu, as idle settings may have changed with the difference in carbon in the intake manifold...

the not so thorough way of doing this is to use carburetor cleaner on rags, toothbrushes, etc, and to get into the intake manifold as far as possible, focusing mainly on the throttle plate and areas around it...

no other spark plug issues here though...
Hmmm...interesting. Good to know! Thanks mitsuguy
Old 05-01-09, 07:12 PM
  #19  
nthach
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Originally Posted by sway162
Hey raytseng, thanks again for your input. It is greatly appreciated. I'm glad you mentioned BITOG. I have never heard of it and it's a great source! So far, on STP it seems like my gas mileage is a tad better. I don't know if it's exactly true but I usually get from 155-165 on a half tank of gas but with the added STP I am at 177.

Anyways, Next time I am going to try out the Redline si-1. This weekend I planned to clean out the throttle body. Can you point me to the right direction on instructions to clean the throttle body with a carburetor spray? I am rookie when it comes to cars....But I want to start doing my own mechanic work on my car. Thanks for all your help!
I assume you're going in on the IS, so you have a drive-by-wire throttle. 2JZs using DBW are easily identified by ETCS-i on the throttle body. One nice thing about this is that the VSC/TRAC systems don't have a separate throttle butterfly - earlier cars have 2 throttles, a main throttle and a sub throttle for TRAC/VSC.

To clean the throttle body, the intake path leading up to the throttle body needs to be pulled - you may need to pull the MAF sensor. The throttle butterfly should be visble. Using a toothbrush or a rag and while working the throttle butterfly by hand or on DBW cars with a screwdriver, clean it with carb cleaner. Make sure to wipe the body bore clean as well. Some cleaner will be puddled in the plenum - beware. Reconnect the intake path, and reconnect the MAF sensor if disconnected - otherwise the CHECK ENGINE light will light up. Fortunately if it does, the CEL will go off in 2-3 drive cycles after the MAF is reconnected and the ECU detects no MAF faults. Start the engine - it will be a bit difficult for a few minutes as the additional carb cleaner is making the mixture rich. Take 'er for a spin and you're done!
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