NSeagle78

iTrader: (5)

My car is a SC400, 1992. I was going to take my car to the shop in the morning, but since it will not start I decided to use the paper clip and run codes. Code 31 and 32 came up (air flow meter signal). Do I need to replace that little black box that is held down by 4 phillips screws near the air filter? My car symptoms were that over months it would take 4 to 5 attempts to start. This would happen maybe 1 out of every 10 times I tried to start it and it got progressily worst. I now find myself in this situation where it now will not start. I am not over machanically inclined so answer me like you are talking to a 10 year old.

RTIS250

iTrader: (9)

There is a high likelihood that you need to replace the MAF. Do yourself a favor and try to find a used one, or try to find a friend who can lend you his/hers so you can see if that is really the problem. But unfortunately, you will most likely need a new MAF.

NSeagle78

iTrader: (5)

Thanks for the quick reply.

NSeagle78

iTrader: (5)

I have now replaced plugs, wires, and rotars. My car runs fairly smooth with a air flow meter from a friend. I have my old air flow meter back on my car and it is throwing a 24 code (IAT Sensor Signal). What is that and where is it located. Pictures would be great if it is complicated. It now starts occasional after a long rest. When it does not start, it starts but dies quickly. Even if you feed it gas it still dies. Sometimes it studdles as it dies. To better answer the original question, it revs up and stalls. HELP, I need my ride.

GEORGE_JET

The IAT (intake air temp sensor) is located inside your MAF. It is a temp sensitive resistor that measures air temp. If you measure pins 1 & 2 you should see app 2~3 kohms at 70 deg. Since you are already having issues with your MAF, continue with your search for a new MAF.

NSeagle78

iTrader: (5)

recleaned with proper cleaner and reading 1.7 k ohms.

NSeagle78

iTrader: (5)

same symtoms

GEORGE_JET

I am confused, you state that it runs smoothly with the borrowed air flow meter. But poorly with your meter. Sounds like your airflow meter is bad, and cleaning it did not help. Is the correct? if so then you should replace the meter. Cleaning sometimes helps, but not always.

NSeagle78

iTrader: (5)

I thought I had fixed my problem by replaceing the MAF but I was mistaken. If I hold my mouth just right my car will start and run great. It idles very low. It has now started to spuddle a little bit just before it cuts off. It virtually will not start unless you give it gas and idle it up just right and then slowly lower the idle. I checked for disconnected hoses and found the hose going to the EGR VSV broken. Also I checked the EGR Valve with R-P-Q stinceled on it. I checked it the best way I knew how according to a post on the forum. I held my hand over P and R, blocking them and then blowing thru Q. I got complete resistence. I then removed my hand from both P and Q and still got complete resistence when blowing thru Q. The forum did not explain what you do after that but I think that means that part is bad. Both parts are very small and very expensive. HELP

NSeagle78

iTrader: (5)

I rebuild my IAFV (can not beleive I did that) the bearings came in to day. Started the car and let it run for 5 minutes. Car starts first try everytime so far today. The wife took it on a long drive today also. She loves my SC, looks like I wasted my money buying her a hybrid. I am at work now with confidence that it will start in the morning when I leave. I have one question however. The DIY that I used recommended anti seize compound, however I did not use any. Should I tear it down and put the compound in it, and if so do I put it in with the magnets and bearings or out on the shaft. Guys as always thanks, I will see you with my next problem. Just went outside, car stared perfect and idled down slightly after a couple of minutes. Man that is sweet.