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The most detailed oil change for GS 400 (with pics).

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Old 07-15-02, 08:42 PM
  #16  
LexFather
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***BONUS*** I spray my ENTIRE underside with WD-40. Why? Well it is a rubber protectant, a rust remover/protectant and a cleanet to me. SOmething I DO, you don't have to do this. Notice the gloss of the parts now.
Attached Thumbnails The most detailed oil change for GS 400 (with pics).-oc14.jpg  

Last edited by LexFather; 07-15-02 at 08:45 PM.
Old 07-15-02, 08:45 PM
  #17  
LexFather
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That silver cap under my STB is my oil cover (I bought this). Unscrew, time to put the new oil in.
Attached Thumbnails The most detailed oil change for GS 400 (with pics).-oc-15.jpg  

Last edited by LexFather; 07-15-02 at 08:46 PM.
Old 07-15-02, 08:46 PM
  #18  
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16
Attached Thumbnails The most detailed oil change for GS 400 (with pics).-oc16.jpg  
Old 07-15-02, 08:48 PM
  #19  
LexFather
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I bought a funnel to make things non messy, though you can do it with a steady hand with no funnel. Thing about that is, if you spill oil, if goes on the engine and is impossible to reach and wipe off, burns up later and looks yuckky...
Attached Thumbnails The most detailed oil change for GS 400 (with pics).-0c17.jpg  
Old 07-15-02, 08:48 PM
  #20  
LexFather
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Pour oil!
Attached Thumbnails The most detailed oil change for GS 400 (with pics).-oc18.jpg  
Old 07-15-02, 08:49 PM
  #21  
LexFather
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Cover oil cap your finished!!!

Last ***VERY IMPORTANT*** document what you did. I put it in the notes space in one of the Lexus manuals.

Date
Mileage
What
Cost
Who
Attached Thumbnails The most detailed oil change for GS 400 (with pics).-oc19.jpg  

Last edited by LexFather; 07-15-02 at 08:50 PM.
Old 07-15-02, 08:52 PM
  #22  
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In the last few pages of this book.

ANything I leave out? I hope this helps a bunch of people as I learned by others on ClubLexus how to change my oil. Saves a lil money, but SATISFACTION in doing it yourself!!!

Comments, questions? Any other cars interested?
Attached Thumbnails The most detailed oil change for GS 400 (with pics).-oc20.jpg  
Old 07-15-02, 08:53 PM
  #23  
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Alright!
Attached Thumbnails The most detailed oil change for GS 400 (with pics).-me-old-grill.jpg  
Old 07-16-02, 06:27 AM
  #24  
BananaGS
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1SICKLEX,
you stole my thread hee hee
I took a whole bunch of pictures a few months back to do this write up, but I had dropped my camera during taking picture on my stereo installation. so I am still waiting for the camara part comming from Japan. for now, no write up on anything for me.


Just want to add in this thread, if you have a body kit, don't try to use the ramp, sometime I have to lift one side of the car up alittle bit with the factory jack, then put the aftermarket jack in the other side (if not it won't clear)

Caution: use multiple jacks or jackstands if you gonna work under the car, unless you can lift 4000lbs.
Old 07-16-02, 09:06 AM
  #25  
Yoda
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This DIY reminds me of a story...

When I first turned 16 my dad helped me change the oil in my car. He told me to run the car for a few minutes because you can get more of the old oil out when it is hot because it doesn't cling to the parts like it does when it is cold. I'm thinking "ok, makes sense to me."

So I start removing the oil pan plug. The moment when the bolt is on its last 1/4 turn from extraction I give it one final twist. The oil shoots out on my hand, I say a couple of swear words, drop the bolt in the oil pan, grab my hand, and say a few more swear words. All of this as my dad is standing there laughing. I was pissed because I had oil all over myself and then had to dig the oil plug out of the pan of old, hot oil.

So unless you use your hands everyday (typing not included) working in a factory or on a farm and have hands of leather, you can not perform an oil change when the oil is hot.
Old 07-16-02, 10:48 AM
  #26  
PERRYinLA
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Default re: Hot Oil Change

Thanks for sharing those pics, Sick!

I'll agree with you and Yoda that handling hot oil, hot oil filters and hot oil drain plugs is no fun, but it can be done, and is preferable to a cold oil change since it will flow more easily and contaminants are more likely to be held in suspension when the oil is hot.

I'd also add two little tips: Open your oil fill cap and pull out your dipstick before draining the oil- the oil flows out faster and you get less of a "bathtub-ring" effect.

Also, pre-fill your new filter with new oil. Pour a bit in, wait a few minutes and notice how the filter has miraculously sucked it all up into the filter medium. Repeat that a few times. Don't overfill, or when you tilt the filter to screw it onto the engine, you'll spill some oil.

Now when you start your engine, it will build up to normal oil pressure quicker, since it won't waste anytime filling up the filter- you've already done it!
Old 07-16-02, 10:58 AM
  #27  
salimshah
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1SICKLEX

Am I the only one who noticed you need a new front left tire?


Couple of other intersting shortcuts..

The only reason to remove/half-open the bottom sheild is to gain access to the filter. The filter can be reached from above. The only drawback is you have to put towles/news_paper to catch the spill.

The ramp use can be avoided if you have long reach ... gain access to the oil drain plug, without crawling under.

Salim
Old 07-16-02, 12:30 PM
  #28  
GSquicksilver
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damn, your car has quite a bit of rust on it. did it ever get flooded?
Old 07-16-02, 05:49 PM
  #29  
oldguy
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Around here, I can save $3-4 by buying the filter at Toyota, not Lexus. Same part number.
Oil should be changed hot.
I use Mobil One for the flow properties at cold temps.
Old 07-16-02, 09:52 PM
  #30  
LexFather
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Am I the only one who noticed you need a new front left tire?


No, tires are 5 months old.

damn, your car has quite a bit of rust on it. did it ever get flooded

No, mud I got under the car when I tried to do some silly rallying in the mud down in the country here. Had a blast but car got very very very very very very dirty.

I did not know the hot oil thing, I'll do this from now on. Seems everyone is adding some great stuff, thanks!


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