lex400sc

I'm going to buy some new Lexus OEM brake pads and swap them out myself. My friend does it on his Toyotas all the time and said there's nothing too it. Jack up the car, remove the wheel, unscrew two screws to open the caliper, pull out old pad, put in new pad, and then put everything back together. Is this correct procedure? Are Lexus OEM pads a good buy? Are they relatively soft pads or hard? My brakes have been squeaking for a little over a week now, and I'm too short on cash to have it done professionally by Lexus service . Thanks for any advice .

lex400sc

Okay I just caught 1SICK's brake thread at the bottom of the page and I'm assuming the consensus is either not to change the brakes myself, or to have my friend run me through it the first time? Lexus brakes aren't any different from Toyota brakes are they?

pcmw

You got it all right...

Not a big project... you will be surprised.

Only one edit to your procedure... Only take one bolt to swing the caliper open. You will also want to go buy one of those quick clamp things at Home Depot. When you pull your old worn thin pads, and try to fit the full sized new pad in, you will have to retract the caliper piston. To do that, just take a quick clamp tight on the piston, open the bleed valve and pump a few times till the piston retracts all the way back. Be sure to refill the reservoir.

MW

awj

You could just use a flat bar or equivalent as a lever, right. I'm swapping mine over to TT and I found this. The second picture and step list tells you how to retract (push back) the piston with a lever while the old pads are still installed. I believe this will extend the piston on the other side (the opposite side of the car). Of course, opening the bleeder will work too. I have the SC manual, but not on the computer. The caliper is a bit different, but the principle is the same. Good luck. I think I'll try mine this weekend also. I have a little more work to do though.

Edit: It looks like the pads are removed already. So remove the pads first - that is what the previous step says.

pcmw

awj,

I would suggest not doing that. You can damage the rotor, caliper, or piston. Not to mention....there are TWO that need pushing in simultaneously.

MW

DevilDog

I would still get the rotors machined. The rotor surface will be uneven and friction pad material is still present on the rotor surface. That in it's self could cause a louder squeek!

DD

awj

pcmw: I understand your viewpoint. But from my angle, I am replacing the front calipers with the TT version as well as the rotors. I might be more carefull with the rear calipers, but those rotors are going too.

Also, that diagram is from the TT factory manual. Why would they explain that as the procedure, if it was most detrimental. Of course, they assume a certified mechanic is doing the work, but it is not rocket science.

I'm not trying to contradict you at all and opening the bleeder would be the safest as far as equipment would be concerned.

pcmw

awj,

I hear you. Your instructions say to open the bleeder, so all the same. I have change a few hundred brakes in my day while working in a performance shop for 5 years while attending college. I think there are better ways and easier ways.

MW

lex400sc

DD, I'm pretty sure my rotors are warped. They've been squeaking intermittently for the past two weeks, and just today they started squeaking every time I brake. It sounds ugly, I'm probably going in for a brake job tomorrow. PCMW scared me with all that braking terminology .

BTW, what's the stardard pricing for a brake job? IE: inspection, resurfacing, new pads. How much are new OEM pads? I only ask because my local dealership sometimes overcharges me on some things and I can't trust them.

awj

I paid 40$ for oem rear pads with shipping. And about 80$ for ebc TT fronts. I think the oem SC fronts are aroun 60$. A fair labor rate is 60$ an hour. So 120$ for the job plus parts. Turning rotors is like 10$ each.

lex400sc

$120, cool. Thanks awj!

lex400sc

Well I bought the front pads today for $64, and was about to install them myself when I thought I'd be thorough and get the rotors turned and resurfaced as well...

- Lexus quoted me $320 for a front brake service, but refused to use the Genuine Toyota pads that I bought from them two hours earlier

- Toyota quoted me $260-360 with me supplying the pads

- SpeeDee quoted me $130 with my pads and $160 with theirs

- Midas quoted me $160 with my pads

Concensus is that I will change them with my buddy who has changed a ton of Toyota/GM/Ford brake pads before. I'm buy him a nice steak dinner afterwards, but it sure beats the $130-360 in labor I pay these shops. My rotors don't feel warped from the crude steering wheel test. Man it sucks to be poor and in debt, I need a job badly!

VQT

You do need to take the two bolts out, cleaned and re-grease (high temperature grease, buy at pepboy) the two sliding pin behind the bolts. Trust me on this, do not take just one bolt and swing it over to take the pads out. The sliding pins need to be clean and new grease. this will make the pads wear out evenly and the pins don't rust/seize to the caliper, which make the pads wear out un-evenly.
You can do this yourself with the help of your friend who did ton of brake already. If you just observe/look, you won't know how to do it the next time. Need to get your hand dirty. The pride of driving sport cars is to learn how to fix most stuff on you own. Unless you have money to pay the shop to do it for you.

pcmw

Oh HECK Rich!!!

PM me when you plan on doing this and I will come over and do it all in 15minutes a side....

You will be surprised how easy it is.

Later.

MW

lex400sc

Hmm, I may take you up on that offer! But I think it'd only be right if I drove up to Sac instead of you driving down here.