airahcaz

as per above, I did do it, yesterday, was looking for after thoughts on my comments, and secondly, asking about engine flushes (oil, etc)...

joshoowa

iTrader: (1)

Yes you void your warranty if you do not follow regular maintenance. doing anything outside the dealer will also void your warranty, but you have to take into consideration cost benefit. for example will paying the dealer extra money for an oil change benefit you if your engine would ever have an oil leak? lexus/toyota engines have been known for their superb lifespand and durability so i would answer my example/question no and change my oil myself. BUT on a transmission, wear and tear is common and i have heard many occasions where ppl had their trannies rebuilt. i too am very concerned about my car as all of us CL members should be too. getting a tranny rebuilt or brand new one isnt cheap, and IMO if you still have warranty just goto the dealer get it flushed gun the hell out of ur car and if ur tranny should ever mess up its under warranty. Another thing i have notice is that lexus warranty is superb compared to any other car maker, my sis timing belt was loose (she has a infiniti) they said tightening it would solve the problem but it didnt. now on my car my timing belt was loose they simply replaced it for a brand new one without care. every single problem i have had with my car, lexus has replaced the part with a brand new part with ease no questions asked.

airahcaz

warranty is not voided outside a dealer if properly documented, receipts, etc

SeattleGS400

iTrader: (1)

Let me get this straight--you've had your car since 40K miles, now it's about 83K, and the ATF had not been serviced at all (maybe since it was new). Then you ask around for opinions on whether you should drain and refill or flush--most dealers said to not flush, with the exception of 1 dealer, so you did a flush, and now your transmission is acting funny?

Was your transmission working fine before the ATF flush--that is, no transmission slippage as you described? And the symptoms you described showed up AFTER the flush?

If so, I think you just damaged your A/T by removing too many deposits at all at once from getting all new fluid in there. Being that your service history was spotty, you should have just done a couple of drain and refills to SLOWLY get the deposits out, and not from the shock of all new fluid. I know that some say go ahead and flush any A/T out at any mileage (even w/ the non-powered passive flushers), but that's not the point, it's the new fluid that will cause the solid deposits to break loose. Those solid deposits take time to get into a harmless chemical suspension, otherwise, they will remain as solid pieces that will clog up your tranny, and cause it to fail. I've heard a few stories where people's A/T faill within 1 week of a flush. There's no rush to get your car's ATF to red, new condition--you have to replace it slowly (if dark: do 3 drain and refills at one time, then do a drain and refill during the next few oil change intervals). Then you can flush it later when your transmission has had time to clear up the majority of deposits safely.

I'd watch and listen to your transmission and make sure that it doesn' t make any funny noises (like the "diesel sound" that you described) and also that it shifts properly at all times (make sure that it doesn't slip when you up a hill--like going 40, then it shifting up and down constantly, or jolt shifts). If there's a problem, I'd take it into your Lexus dealer ASAP and have them diagnose it (esp. if your car is still under warranty).

Good luck to you.

airahcaz

Toyo dealer first advised not to do anything at all, as you suggested. Then when he heard I was still under warrantly, but also that is was running out in a month, he said do the flush and view the results...

JPI Racing

Here are some of the answers:
1) It only takes 2.5 qts to refill the tranny
2) Lexus dealership using Vavoline ATF now. It cost less than toyota and works a lot better
3) $199 for a transmission flush? I hope the ATF is not gold. It usually run about $50-60 for a flush
4) Change your ATF every 15k. Find you an independent shop they price will be cheaper.
JPI

PERRYinLA

A Lexus dealership is using Vavoline ATF? In place of Type IV? What kind of Vavoline ATF do they use, and do they add a friction modifier?

I'm no fan of paying the excessive markup for Type IV, so I'm glad to hear someone's having success with an alternative, but it sure contradicts all the posts on this forum that for years have preached: "don't use anything but Type-IV or you'll ruin your trans".

JPI Racing

Valvoline just come out the long time ATF. You can pretty much find these at your local auto parts. It runs about $2.18 a pt. Every dealership that I know are using the Valvoline ATF, of course we use these at our shop also. It works REALLY WELL on the lexus. I will take a pic of the bottle for you guys.
JPI

SeattleGS400

iTrader: (1)

Interesting info. However, if the Valvoline ATF costs $2.18/pint, that's $4.36/quart. If I can get the Toyota T-IV for $3.79/quart at Burien Toyota, what are the best reasons that I should switch to the slight more expensive Valvoline ATF--if any? Of course, some Toyota dealerships charge up to $6.95/quart here in Seattle, but it does pay to do some comparison shopping.

I'm not being argumentative, just looking for some solid answers.

PERRYinLA

I guess we'll just have to wait till he responds to know for sure, but I'm guessing it's a typo and he meant "qt" rather than "pt"- I've never seen ATF sold by the pt.
I'm pretty sure he is talking about Valvoline MaxLife- here's the web page that details it, and a photo:

http://www.valvoline.com/pages/produ....asp?product=6

JPI Racing

Sorry I mean quart. Yes, This is it. It's the good stuffs.
JPI

nthach

hmm... no mention of it meeting Toyota T-IV standards.... the only product i know of that meets T-IV(not officially!) is Amsoil ATF...

airahcaz

I think my 'fluidy diesel sound has gone from when I first drove from the Toyo dealer after a full Type T-IV Trani Flush last week. I do feel a slight 'get in gear' after a half second of pushing my pedal more than half way, I might just be paranoid and that might have been there before as well. I wonder, any way to tell if my Trani is really slightly slipping? Or will it be so evident and gradually become worse so much so that it is easily noticeable? March 25th is my CPO expiration.