A/t temperature
08-07-13, 12:27 PM
#1
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A/t temperature
Hello!
I just took my car to a pretty reliable mechanic shop (based on online reviews) and they gave me some advice and just wanted to verify it with everyone.
My car
RX300 1999
Main Issue
My A/T temperature light came up twice through some long rides and then quickly shut off either by shutting my car off or slowing down (from 80mph-> 60). I soon checked the transmission fluid to see it pinkish/black so my first thought was that i would need a flush and refill or something.
Background info
- my car has 210,000 Miles on it
- catylitic light and 02 sensor light has been on for quite some time now
- have a lot of oil dripping/burning (mechanic said oil all over the engine and such)
My main question
Mechanic advised that flushing out the transmission with such an old car might actually hurt the car than help it. Is this true?
He basically gave up hope for my car since it probably wont pass inspection because of the catylitic converters. ( i figured the catylitic converters dont really affect how the car runs so it woudlnt matter much in terms of how the car runs)
The car still drives smoothly and sounds fine for the most part. Is there any other advice someone could give? Any would be greatly appreciated since I do not know much at all. Thanks!
Michael Kim
I just took my car to a pretty reliable mechanic shop (based on online reviews) and they gave me some advice and just wanted to verify it with everyone.
My car
RX300 1999
Main Issue
My A/T temperature light came up twice through some long rides and then quickly shut off either by shutting my car off or slowing down (from 80mph-> 60). I soon checked the transmission fluid to see it pinkish/black so my first thought was that i would need a flush and refill or something.
Background info
- my car has 210,000 Miles on it
- catylitic light and 02 sensor light has been on for quite some time now
- have a lot of oil dripping/burning (mechanic said oil all over the engine and such)
My main question
Mechanic advised that flushing out the transmission with such an old car might actually hurt the car than help it. Is this true?
He basically gave up hope for my car since it probably wont pass inspection because of the catylitic converters. ( i figured the catylitic converters dont really affect how the car runs so it woudlnt matter much in terms of how the car runs)
The car still drives smoothly and sounds fine for the most part. Is there any other advice someone could give? Any would be greatly appreciated since I do not know much at all. Thanks!
Michael Kim
08-07-13, 08:05 PM
#2
Dysfunctional Veteran
At 210,000 miles, assuming your fluid has never been changed, and you are not currently having any driveability issues, I would drain it, refill it, drive it for a few days, then repeat, and then a third time and so on, until your fluid is back to a nice cherry red color.
Toyota fluid is a must, and while expensive in the quantities you will need, its MUCH cheaper than a trans rebuild. Your mechanic is absolutely right about not flusing an older trans that has never been serviced. The pressure from the machine will dislodge all the crap inside your transmission and slam it through the system at high pressure, damaging god only knows what in the process.
I have saved many transmissions by draining and refilling repeatedly, then doing one last one with a filter change for good measure. Do 6 or 7 fluid changes within an oil change period, then change your filters and just maintain.
As for your oil leaks, degrease the engine to see where they are coming from. simply put a bag over your alternator, spray simple green or purple power or something on the oil and grease, let it sit, and spray it off with a hose.
At this point I can hazard a guess you have the same problem as every other 3.0L V6 had from the late 90's and early 2000's. Camshaft Seals, Crankshaft seals, and Valve Cover gaskets.
If you are going to have all those changed, do the timing belt and water pump too as they havent likely been done if the transmission has been overlooked this long. Altogether, for timing belt, water pump and all of those gaskets you could well be looking at a $2,000+ repair bill if a shop does it, but a good indie shop may charge as little as $1500. I would order the parts, and go in to the shop and say "will you guys install these?" No indie mechanic in his right mind would say no, and then the ball is in your court. If you have the parts in hand, you can haggle with the shop, tell them you will pay them $1,000 cash, and if they dont take it, move to another shop. There is always another one.
Toyota fluid is a must, and while expensive in the quantities you will need, its MUCH cheaper than a trans rebuild. Your mechanic is absolutely right about not flusing an older trans that has never been serviced. The pressure from the machine will dislodge all the crap inside your transmission and slam it through the system at high pressure, damaging god only knows what in the process.
I have saved many transmissions by draining and refilling repeatedly, then doing one last one with a filter change for good measure. Do 6 or 7 fluid changes within an oil change period, then change your filters and just maintain.
As for your oil leaks, degrease the engine to see where they are coming from. simply put a bag over your alternator, spray simple green or purple power or something on the oil and grease, let it sit, and spray it off with a hose.
At this point I can hazard a guess you have the same problem as every other 3.0L V6 had from the late 90's and early 2000's. Camshaft Seals, Crankshaft seals, and Valve Cover gaskets.
If you are going to have all those changed, do the timing belt and water pump too as they havent likely been done if the transmission has been overlooked this long. Altogether, for timing belt, water pump and all of those gaskets you could well be looking at a $2,000+ repair bill if a shop does it, but a good indie shop may charge as little as $1500. I would order the parts, and go in to the shop and say "will you guys install these?" No indie mechanic in his right mind would say no, and then the ball is in your court. If you have the parts in hand, you can haggle with the shop, tell them you will pay them $1,000 cash, and if they dont take it, move to another shop. There is always another one.
Last edited by ArmyofOne; 08-07-13 at 08:13 PM.
08-07-13, 11:20 PM
#3
Your mechanic is absolutely right about not flusing an older trans that has never been serviced. The pressure from the machine will dislodge all the crap inside your transmission and slam it through the system at high pressure, damaging god only knows what in the process.
Unfortunately, the reason for the failures common in higher mileage transmissions is loosely based on what you said, it isn't completely accurate - it has nothing to do with the pressure of the machine, it has to do with the additives in the transmission fluid to keep it clean - by adding new fluid, you add more of these cleaners, which may loosen up deposits...
there may not be much difference at all between an incremental drain and fill and a proper flush, some people get lucky both ways...
personally, higher mileage transmission - never been flushed, forget it and drive it til it dies...
08-08-13, 09:14 AM
#4
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For anyone who's interested, this was also posted in the 1st Gen RX forum:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-...-light-on.html
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-...-light-on.html
08-27-13, 10:02 AM
#5
Lexus Test Driver
At 210,000 miles, assuming your fluid has never been changed, and you are not currently having any driveability issues, I would drain it, refill it, drive it for a few days, then repeat, and then a third time and so on, until your fluid is back to a nice cherry red color. Toyota fluid is a must, and while expensive in the quantities you will need, its MUCH cheaper than a trans rebuild. Your mechanic is absolutely right about not flusing an older trans that has never been serviced. The pressure from the machine will dislodge all the crap inside your transmission and slam it through the system at high pressure, damaging god only knows what in the process. I have saved many transmissions by draining and refilling repeatedly, then doing one last one with a filter change for good measure. Do 6 or 7 fluid changes within an oil change period, then change your filters and just maintain. As for your oil leaks, degrease the engine to see where they are coming from. simply put a bag over your alternator, spray simple green or purple power or something on the oil and grease, let it sit, and spray it off with a hose. At this point I can hazard a guess you have the same problem as every other 3.0L V6 had from the late 90's and early 2000's. Camshaft Seals, Crankshaft seals, and Valve Cover gaskets. If you are going to have all those changed, do the timing belt and water pump too as they havent likely been done if the transmission has been overlooked this long. Altogether, for timing belt, water pump and all of those gaskets you could well be looking at a $2,000+ repair bill if a shop does it, but a good indie shop may charge as little as $1500. I would order the parts, and go in to the shop and say "will you guys install these?" No indie mechanic in his right mind would say no, and then the ball is in your court. If you have the parts in hand, you can haggle with the shop, tell them you will pay them $1,000 cash, and if they dont take it, move to another shop. There is always another one.
It's about 6 hours of work including changing the seals.
The whole timing belt kit including water pump, timing belt, crank seal, cam seals , drive belts, thermostat and all is $263. That's with all OE parts.
08-28-13, 03:23 PM
#6
Dysfunctional Veteran
have you priced labor rates at an ASE certified shop lately? Aint cheap. On the order of $80 on the cheap end, $120+ on the more expensive side. $1k is a roundabout figure. Last time I had a TB/WP and all the seals listed replaced, it was almost $1800...and that was 10 years ago.
08-28-13, 06:52 PM
#7
Lexus Test Driver
have you priced labor rates at an ASE certified shop lately? Aint cheap. On the order of $80 on the cheap end, $120+ on the more expensive side. $1k is a roundabout figure. Last time I had a TB/WP and all the seals listed replaced, it was almost $1800...and that was 10 years ago.
My uncle's shop took care it for $650 with parts included.
Dang, they ripped you a new one at $1800.
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