OEM bearings - control arm, idler, tensioner
#1
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Ok, I’m trying to find a source of OEM or quality bearings for my 2013 ES350. I’ve gone COVID crazy and pulled things apart on my 5 month old used purchase because it’s just sitting there unused as I work from home. What better time than now?!
I want to just replace the worn bearings in my idler pulley, tensioner pulley, and a/c clutch pulley. I know, crazy. I’m looking to press them out and press in new ones.
I've researched and read a lot of opinions. I’m looking for advice from those who might have tackled this on their own and can offer sources of quality bearings. I don’t want to cheap out and regret it.
Quality bearings that are cheaper than things like the OEM idler pulley for $70 and buying the whole tensioner with pulley for $200. Moog, Koyo, NGK, FSK?
Also, any suggestions for the lower control arm bushings besides buying the whole OEM control arm with bearings for $200? There is a part number I can barely read in the cracks of the cracked bushings that is 48655-33080 but searches only bring up third party results.
I want to just replace the worn bearings in my idler pulley, tensioner pulley, and a/c clutch pulley. I know, crazy. I’m looking to press them out and press in new ones.
I've researched and read a lot of opinions. I’m looking for advice from those who might have tackled this on their own and can offer sources of quality bearings. I don’t want to cheap out and regret it.
Quality bearings that are cheaper than things like the OEM idler pulley for $70 and buying the whole tensioner with pulley for $200. Moog, Koyo, NGK, FSK?
Also, any suggestions for the lower control arm bushings besides buying the whole OEM control arm with bearings for $200? There is a part number I can barely read in the cracks of the cracked bushings that is 48655-33080 but searches only bring up third party results.
Last edited by Lexmart; 04-25-20 at 11:30 AM.
#2
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Any industrial bearing supply will have the appropriate bearings as well as cross reference sources. Lexus does have some propriety sizes out there so you may have a dead end. In which case you hope they superseded the part with a pulley that accepts common available bearings. One idler bearing version on the LS400 and LS430 has a propriety 2 row NSK that isn't available. Third party manufacturers offered the pulley with a cheap bearing. In that case it is easier to buy those for the pulley then if desired press out that bearing for your choice. I like Koyo bearings or if there is an NSK available.
Not crazy to DIY. A complete idler pulley is $65+ from Lexus. The idlers don't wear out so I picked up a Koyo bearing for $6.50 and pressed it out. Some of the fits are pretty tight and my smaller press was marginal. Freezing the bearing overnight was enough that it pressed in quite easily.
Not crazy to DIY. A complete idler pulley is $65+ from Lexus. The idlers don't wear out so I picked up a Koyo bearing for $6.50 and pressed it out. Some of the fits are pretty tight and my smaller press was marginal. Freezing the bearing overnight was enough that it pressed in quite easily.
#3
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Thanks for the feedback! I'm searching for the part numbers I can read on the original bearings, and finding some close substitutes, I think. One (idler?) is a NSK 6203DUL1B. From what I read, the DUL1B is a Toyota specific spec. The tensioner pully bearing isn't marked and looks to have metal seals/covers, but the pulley is stamped on the edge with PU107016RMXY. I'm now looking for good sources for NSK or Toyo bearings. I hate the thought of throwing away a whole idler pulley or the work involved in replacing the whole tensioner (as well as the ridiculous cost).
I still haven't pulled the a/c clutch pulley off because I don't have any snap ring pliers. I'll need the 90 degree tips since there isn't any room to get at the snap ring holes straight on.
Good thing I don't need to drive this anytime soon as it sits up on jack stands in my garage.
I still haven't pulled the a/c clutch pulley off because I don't have any snap ring pliers. I'll need the 90 degree tips since there isn't any room to get at the snap ring holes straight on.
Good thing I don't need to drive this anytime soon as it sits up on jack stands in my garage.
#4
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My bearing guy says that sounds like a 5203 being double row. If you have the dimensions this site has a wealth of info:
http://www.consbrgs.com/index.html
Bearing search database:
http://www.consbrgs.com/search.html
This was posted on the Toyota Nation forum:
Motion Industries is $ but they do have a lot.
http://www.consbrgs.com/index.html
Bearing search database:
http://www.consbrgs.com/search.html
This was posted on the Toyota Nation forum:
Repair the tensioner pulley bearings. The tensioner uses standard sized 6203 bearings. Note the part number is very close to the original equipment part number used in the idler pulley. This is not a typo. The bearings are different so be careful. The original bearing part number is NSK 6203DUL1B.
There are also two bearings in this tensioner pulley. I purchased two SKF 62032RSJEM bearings from Motion Industries for $21. The design stacks two 6203 bearings and connects them using a single sleeve or bushing pressed through both centers.
There are also two bearings in this tensioner pulley. I purchased two SKF 62032RSJEM bearings from Motion Industries for $21. The design stacks two 6203 bearings and connects them using a single sleeve or bushing pressed through both centers.
Last edited by RA40; 04-27-20 at 12:12 PM.
#5
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An update. I ended up pressing out the tensioner pulley bearings and replacing them myself. I also bought a new idler pulley OEM online. And I also replaced the entire AC pulley and bearing as a whole by buying the AC cluch kit OEM. I tried pressing out the AC pulley bearing but I wasn't successful and just went new. Everthing works and the car is quieter now.
#7
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An update. I ended up pressing out the tensioner pulley bearings and replacing them myself. I also bought a new idler pulley OEM online. And I also replaced the entire AC pulley and bearing as a whole by buying the AC cluch kit OEM. I tried pressing out the AC pulley bearing but I wasn't successful and just went new. Everthing works and the car is quieter now.
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