mandyfig

Amsoil rock, proven and recommended.

gs4play

to flush or not to flush. I am at a stand still alot of people seem to see great results from a transmission flush. Other people say its a horrible idea and can ruin the transmission. They say you should just drain and refill. I have 125,000 on my car. There is some jerkiness when I stop then go. I know I need to have the trans serviced soon. More feedback would be great

GSteg

iTrader: (15)

Drain and refill all the way. But instead of doing the normal 2-3 quart, disconnect the transmission return line and turn on the engine for a few seconds. It'll pump out the old fluid. Turn off the engine and pour in new fluid. Do that until you get fresh fluid coming out of the return line. I recently did this for another forum member. His fluid was BLACK and we ended up using 11 quarts, which seems about right since the transmission's capacity was 12 qts. A regular drain and refill will never be as clean unless you do it religiously for months. It'll cost a lot more in the end to get the same result.

gs4play

do i drain the trans first then disconnect the return line, to further drain the fluid? or will it all come out from the return?

GSteg

iTrader: (15)

What I did first was drain the fluid out of the transmission pan and then poured in new fluid. After that, I used the return-line method.

It's better this way because you wouldn't be mixing new and old fluid into the transmission pan on your first drain.

ponytail 4

So if I just drain the pan without removing it, how many quarts come out? Don't want to start and not have enough to put in. Thanks.

mitsuguy

iTrader: (2)

2-3, roughly...

realistically, it's not going to hurt anything to, say, drain, put 2 quarts in, then start the engine.. even if you started it without adding, it still won't hurt anything - just don't drive it until you have the proper amount...

and then, you pretty much have to start the car, as you won't get an accurate reading if the cars not running...

neutrons

just the pan

breakb

iTrader: (2)

ok well down here amsoil is only sold at like one store i saw in the previews. but anyways. i heard redline oil is supposed to be good for tranny fluid. anyone heard anything on that? was gonna take it to my mechanic and have him flush the tranny and probably just switch the oil to synthetic. Redline for the tranny, and mobil1 synethtic for the engine oil.

sound good guys?

Peace out

labrealiv

Hi Henry,

Two questions:

1. SC 300 had the trans fluid change during the 90k service. Now at 101k, the fluid from the dip stick looks super clean + and smells "new." Do I wait another 20k for a change or start drain + fill w/ next oil change?
2. I guess this shlda been the 1st question, is checking trans. fluid from dipstick accurate enough as to how "clean" it is in pan?

Thanks

breakb

iTrader: (2)

so...no one has tried redline tranny oil? guess i'll be the guinea pig when i get the money...hard to get amsoil down here...>_<

Peace out

Lexusfreak

Get a price for from your Amsoil dealer & also contact Amsoil head office....perhaps it might be cheaper to but it directly from them. Amsoil ATF meets both Dexron III & Toyota Type IV requirements.....not sure about Redline.

engin_ear

iTrader: (1)

Anyone know if it's OK to pump most of the fluid out of the tranny at idle (into a bucket, from the cooler line) and then refill the whole thing???? Will this damage anything? I'm guessing that the parts remain coated with fluid long enough to get through a couple of minutes without the tranny being full.

GSteg

iTrader: (15)

You should be okay. That's what most people do anyways. Once little/no fluid comes out of the hose, shut off the engine. The torque converter is not locked up at idle anyways. You're in park so the planetary gears are not really spinning as if you're driving.

sam430

iTrader: (10)

Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF

Audi G 052 025-A2, G 052 162-A1
BMW LA2634
Esso LT 71141
ETL-7045E, ETL-8072B, N402
Ford* MERCON*, MERCON V, MERCON LV
All 2005 and earlier GM vehicles**
Honda ATF-Z1*
Hyundai SP-II, SP-III
Idemitsu K17
JWS 3309
Kia SP-II, SP-III
MAN 339F, V1, V2, Z1, Z2, Z3
Mazda ATF-III, ATF-MV
Mercedes-Benz 236.1, 236.2, 236.5, 236.6, 236.7, 236.9
Mitsubishi Diamond SP-II, SP-III
Nissan Matic-D, Matic-J, Matic-K
Subaru ATF
Toyota T-III, T-IV
Voith 55.6335.XX (G607, G1363)
Volvo 97340
ZF TE-ML 03D, 04D, 09, 14A, 14B, 16L, 17C