Member Help thread from a Lexus Certified Technician
#212
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Two piece rotors are what they are two piece. So the initial cost of purchasing a two piece in the begining is high however when you need replacement rotors all you need to do is get the disk can re-use the hub from the two piece design.
one piece rotors are every rotor designed out there in the world o.e,aftermarket. There are slotted,cross slotted,drilled,cross drilled, cross slotted/drilled and ofcourse o.e blanks. Intial cost is moderate to low.
My personal preference is two piece. It gives it that nice aggressive look. Here is a pic of the two
Two Piece
One piece
one piece rotors are every rotor designed out there in the world o.e,aftermarket. There are slotted,cross slotted,drilled,cross drilled, cross slotted/drilled and ofcourse o.e blanks. Intial cost is moderate to low.
My personal preference is two piece. It gives it that nice aggressive look. Here is a pic of the two
Two Piece
One piece
#213
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99 RX300 with P0500 "VSS Vehicle Speed Sensor"
Today is March 14th, 2010. I own a 1999 Lexus RX300 with only 21,000 miles. I recently got a "check engine light" so I stopped at AutoZone for the free scan and got "P0500 Vehicle Speed Sensor". For the past week when I first get in it for the day. The transmission shifts at 3-4000 rpm.. much later than normal. It only does this for the first shift out of first and sometimes second gear. After that everything shifts normal. The check engine light will stay on for anywhere from 1 hour to 1 day, go off, then not come on for another 3 days, then suddenly there it is again.
I know that there are two VSS's. From what I have read, if the speedometer is not working, it is the sensor with the 3 prong connector that is bad.
The one that looks like this ----> http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...980-_-10720525
Since my speedometer is working perfectly, is it the sensor with 2 prongs that I need to replace? The one that looks like this? ----> http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...980-_-10720525
Thanks so much in advance for any help! I'm assuming if I get the correct information from this forum and I'm able to replace this myself, I will same myself several hundreds of dollars!
I know that there are two VSS's. From what I have read, if the speedometer is not working, it is the sensor with the 3 prong connector that is bad.
The one that looks like this ----> http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...980-_-10720525
Since my speedometer is working perfectly, is it the sensor with 2 prongs that I need to replace? The one that looks like this? ----> http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...980-_-10720525
Thanks so much in advance for any help! I'm assuming if I get the correct information from this forum and I'm able to replace this myself, I will same myself several hundreds of dollars!
#214
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The problem your having is with your rear wheel speed sensors. Remove the wheel and look at the sensor. If there looks to be some rust build up between the sensor and the hub then you will need to remove one or both sensors and clean the inside diameter of the hub where the sensor plugs into it. I recommend using a dremel with this type of abrasive tool enlarge this pic and you will see the type of dremel and piece im writing about http://www.dremel.com/en-us/Tools/Pa...pid=200+Series
I recommend getting two of these sensors
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...980-_-10720525
reason being is the rust will most likely seize the sensor into the hub and you will need two flat head screw drivers to wedge the sensor out and you may end up breaking the sensor in to the hub which will need to be replaced at that time.
Hope this helps.
I recommend getting two of these sensors
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...980-_-10720525
reason being is the rust will most likely seize the sensor into the hub and you will need two flat head screw drivers to wedge the sensor out and you may end up breaking the sensor in to the hub which will need to be replaced at that time.
Hope this helps.
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The problem your having is with your rear wheel speed sensors. Remove the wheel and look at the sensor. If there looks to be some rust build up between the sensor and the hub then you will need to remove one or both sensors and clean the inside diameter of the hub where the sensor plugs into it. I recommend using a dremel with this type of abrasive tool enlarge this pic and you will see the type of dremel and piece im writing about http://www.dremel.com/en-us/Tools/Pa...pid=200+Series
I recommend getting two of these sensors
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...980-_-10720525
reason being is the rust will most likely seize the sensor into the hub and you will need two flat head screw drivers to wedge the sensor out and you may end up breaking the sensor in to the hub which will need to be replaced at that time.
Hope this helps.
I recommend getting two of these sensors
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...980-_-10720525
reason being is the rust will most likely seize the sensor into the hub and you will need two flat head screw drivers to wedge the sensor out and you may end up breaking the sensor in to the hub which will need to be replaced at that time.
Hope this helps.
It does make sense that it could be a problem with corrosion/rust. Since this car has such low miles for its year. It has obviously sat for extended periods without wheel rotation (it was actually kept at a vacation home and only driven a few times a year).
Would this problem cause the late shift that occurs only in the first few minutes of driving?
Also, would it cause the code "P0500 Vehicle Speed Sensor" and not "Wheel Speed Sensor" (if there is such a code)?
I'm only asking because others have pointed me to the sensors on the tranny. Because of your reputation on here, I'm going to act on your opinion first.
Is there a picture or perhaps a manual I could buy to aid in the location/repair of this problem?
I will check these sensors asap and keep you posted.. Tremendous thanks for your help!!
#216
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Glad to be of service. As for the link I copied the second one that you posted. You will need that sensor. The late shift that is occurring is a shift flare which can be caused by many situations; Check your trans fluid get a paper towel and clean off the trans dip stick on to it and note down what color it is, your rear wheel speed sensors may be sending confronting signals to your ecm causing the shift flare, It could be something as simple as letting the car warm up completely before driving it or switch your driving pattern up a bit.
Take care of one problem and move on to the next. Take care of the speed sensor first and see if that helps. If not you will need to systematically check other components. Thanks
Take care of one problem and move on to the next. Take care of the speed sensor first and see if that helps. If not you will need to systematically check other components. Thanks
#217
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Hi! I have a 92 SC300 5spd. my problems consist of: rough idle, loss of power, and i can smell fuel. at start up the car sounds like it is misfiring, when i give it gas it struggles and sounds like it wants to die out. i can smell fuel around the engine bay, although it is very faint. 21 HO2S is the code i pulled, however the car ran fine with this code on for about 600 miles of driving... then one day it just started showing these symptoms.
so far i checked the MAF by swapping it out with one from another 300, i cleaned the IAC valve, i changed the spark plugs, and tried cleaning 2 of the o2 sensors on the exhaust side. im stomped as to what i should do next, please help! thanks!
so far i checked the MAF by swapping it out with one from another 300, i cleaned the IAC valve, i changed the spark plugs, and tried cleaning 2 of the o2 sensors on the exhaust side. im stomped as to what i should do next, please help! thanks!
#219
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#222
failed emissions on my 95 sc300
HC - 100 - 101 = FAIL
Co% - 0.50 - 0.61 = FAIL
what do i need to do to pass ?
I already did the tuneup .. cap rotor t-belt plugs, and all i have modded is a cone filter.
thanks for the help in advance, come to rutgers next week and ill buy you a sandwich.
HC - 100 - 101 = FAIL
Co% - 0.50 - 0.61 = FAIL
what do i need to do to pass ?
I already did the tuneup .. cap rotor t-belt plugs, and all i have modded is a cone filter.
thanks for the help in advance, come to rutgers next week and ill buy you a sandwich.
Last edited by davidv433; 03-21-10 at 01:50 PM.
#223
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cant do wheel alignment to the rear of a 98 gs400.
Alignment shop said they couldnt align it because of a worned out part in the rear. They didnt say what was worned. This is for the rear. Front they have no troubles aligning.
Thanks!
Bill
Alignment shop said they couldnt align it because of a worned out part in the rear. They didnt say what was worned. This is for the rear. Front they have no troubles aligning.
Thanks!
Bill
#224
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failed emissions on my 95 sc300
HC - 100 - 101 = FAIL
Co% - 0.50 - 0.61 = FAIL
what do i need to do to pass ?
I already did the tuneup .. cap rotor t-belt plugs, and all i have modded is a cone filter.
thanks for the help in advance, come to rutgers next week and ill buy you a sandwich.
HC - 100 - 101 = FAIL
Co% - 0.50 - 0.61 = FAIL
what do i need to do to pass ?
I already did the tuneup .. cap rotor t-belt plugs, and all i have modded is a cone filter.
thanks for the help in advance, come to rutgers next week and ill buy you a sandwich.
#225
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You have two adjustments in the rear one is the camber arm and the other is the toe arm. They probably couldnt loosen the adjustment nut on either control arms and figured they tell you that its worn. How many miles do you have on it? Only thing that wears down is the bushings within the arms; You can purchase just the bushings and have them replaced. They will need to be pressed out. what were the numbers in the rear ? Did they give you a print out ?