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Old 05-01-10, 06:08 AM
  #316  
TACH_MOTOR
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Originally Posted by 7Cain
Hi Tach, we've talked before. My car has been sitting for a year now due to a flood from last april, and I thought the solenoids in the transmission where stuck or bad and not reporting to the diagnostic computer. I ended up needing to purchase a different valve body assembly which included the solenoids. I put everything on to spec as far as my manual and made sure the trans oil was at the correct level (even after running it for a bit to warm up). I actually got to drive it down the street! It was AWESOME! for about 200ft. Then it started to slip and then it would not engage at all. I think something was free'd up when I put the new valvebody and solenoids on (well they where actually used and the solenoids came with the valvebody). What do you think? I've been at this for a year and I am no transmission guy nor can I afford one. Thank you SO much for being involved with this forum (I'm sure you don't hear that enough).

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7Cain
Cain,

Anytime you change valvebody you have to make sure everything is back in place such as the check ***** etc.. You also have to clean out the trans cooler ( attached to the radiator; there are two 3/8" hose connected which are the trans cooler lines, You must take both off and use high pressure air ( compressed air ) to push all the impurities out of the system. I believe you may have released something when driving which caused it to start slipping or the valve body was not good when purchased used. I would remove the valvebody take it to a trans shop and have them clean them out completely. Completely flush your trans out and your trans cooler. See if that helps.

Thanks for the compliments!!
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Old 05-01-10, 06:35 PM
  #317  
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Thank you so much. Flushing the trans cooler was something I did not do. The valvebody looked clean to me with fresh gaskets but it wouldn't hurt to take it off and have it cleaned by a trans shop anyway. I heard that having an old transmission flushed was a bad idea but I can see how it would be required when car has sat for so long and may have sludge buildup. I will try all of these things and hope it works, thank you again for providing such a great service to this community. You are worth your weight in gold (or oil if you would)!

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Old 05-02-10, 12:20 PM
  #318  
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Originally Posted by TACH_MOTOR
Cain,

Anytime you change valvebody you have to make sure everything is back in place such as the check ***** etc.. You also have to clean out the trans cooler ( attached to the radiator; there are two 3/8" hose connected which are the trans cooler lines, You must take both off and use high pressure air ( compressed air ) to push all the impurities out of the system. I believe you may have released something when driving which caused it to start slipping or the valve body was not good when purchased used. I would remove the valvebody take it to a trans shop and have them clean them out completely. Completely flush your trans out and your trans cooler. See if that helps.

Thanks for the compliments!!
Quick question on the trans cooler lines. Do I force are through the lines or through the cooler, or both? Do I do this while the valvebody is off with the pan back in place or let it drain out the bottom of the open trans? Thanks again in advance.
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Old 05-02-10, 04:42 PM
  #319  
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Glad to be of service. I would blow through the lines and through the cooler assembly. I would do it when you remove the vb assembly. so nothing else gets released into the vb again.
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Old 05-03-10, 02:26 PM
  #320  
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Originally Posted by TACH_MOTOR
Glad to be of service. I would blow through the lines and through the cooler assembly. I would do it when you remove the vb assembly. so nothing else gets released into the vb again.
Awesome, I can't wait to give it a try. I am anxious to see what comes out of the lines. Is this essentially a flush?
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Old 05-03-10, 06:25 PM
  #321  
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Well the real way to do a flush is too hook up a fluid exchanger to the trans and have the car run. While the trans is circulating fluid it gets collected in the exchanger at which point the exchanger re-introduces the new fluid to the trans so its completely flushed out.

Alot of dealerships and regular repair places will only do a drain and fill. The difference is a drain and fill will be around 4-5 qts of trans fluid where as a complete flush is about 10-12 qts depending on vehicle of course.

What you are essentially doing is you are cleaning out all the lines to make sure there are no impurities left in the system. There will always be some but what you are trying to do is minimize it so it wont clog up the VB.
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Old 05-04-10, 03:06 PM
  #322  
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not a mechanic or anything myself but would like opinion from a lexus mechanic....

99 sc400 c 70K miles.... 60K major service done by lexus dealer within last year... if i were to consider buying the car would u recommend I replace timing belt due to age in yrs ... car runs beautiful..??


another question: services where they say 6yrs or 90K miles... if ur car is not driven as much do u follow the time rather than miles for ur services???
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Old 05-04-10, 08:47 PM
  #323  
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hi tach, i have a ? my car drive great im just having a problem with my brakes i drive and when i come to a stop or try to stop the car starts breaking like a regular car then the reak pedal vibrates it keeps on going for like a foot like if i wasnt steping on the break and then it works again, i know its weird and hard to explain but if you can help me out it would be grat, thanks
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Old 05-05-10, 04:41 PM
  #324  
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Originally Posted by drpatel77
not a mechanic or anything myself but would like opinion from a lexus mechanic....

99 sc400 c 70K miles.... 60K major service done by lexus dealer within last year... if i were to consider buying the car would u recommend I replace timing belt due to age in yrs ... car runs beautiful..??


another question: services where they say 6yrs or 90K miles... if ur car is not driven as much do u follow the time rather than miles for ur services???
Timing belt needs to be replaced every 90K miles or 10 years which ever comes first. My suggestion is you keep the car have the timing belt,water pump,thermostat, idler gears, timing belt tensioner, cam seals and crank seal replaced.
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Old 05-05-10, 04:44 PM
  #325  
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Originally Posted by BKGEE83
hi tach, i have a ? my car drive great im just having a problem with my brakes i drive and when i come to a stop or try to stop the car starts breaking like a regular car then the reak pedal vibrates it keeps on going for like a foot like if i wasnt steping on the break and then it works again, i know its weird and hard to explain but if you can help me out it would be grat, thanks
I would replace or resurface all 4 rotors ( depending on the condition of your rotors ) replace all 4 corner brake pads and if your missing shims add new shim kit.
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Old 05-05-10, 09:52 PM
  #326  
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Originally Posted by TACH_MOTOR
I would replace or resurface all 4 rotors ( depending on the condition of your rotors ) replace all 4 corner brake pads and if your missing shims add new shim kit.
thank you so much ill do this and let you know what happens, thanks again
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Old 05-05-10, 11:33 PM
  #327  
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Have a 2003 GX470 approaching 90K, what would you recommend to check/replace. Oh, and the car is still under warranty.
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Old 05-06-10, 04:01 AM
  #328  
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hey tach good post its good to know we got people like u here on the forum lending a hand to fellow members
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Old 05-06-10, 08:17 AM
  #329  
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Originally Posted by cmc5dc
Have a 2003 GX470 approaching 90K, what would you recommend to check/replace. Oh, and the car is still under warranty.
Get a full 90k service if you have not already and get your timing belt,water pump,thermostat,seals,tensioner, idler pulleys replaced.
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Old 05-06-10, 08:18 AM
  #330  
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Originally Posted by mr3gs300
hey tach good post its good to know we got people like u here on the forum lending a hand to fellow members
Absolutely. Glad to help out the community. I know how hard and expensive it can be too go to a dealer or repair shop and not have an idea of what an issue could be.
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