Originally Posted by jfb92sc300

Hello Tach Motor, thanks for being here. I have a 92 SC 300-5 speed w/ 168,000 miles on the car. I have a # of issues w/ the car and need your assistance.
I bought a rebuilt Denso alternator and need to know how to install it. I've done this on my Supra w/ a 7M GTE but I have never worked on a 2JZ. Do I need to loosen the tension on the serpentine belt tensioner to loosen the belt to remove the old alternator? If so how do I do that? The 7M has an arm that the alternator slides on, it looks like the alternator on the 2J is fixed.

A: There is a 14mm nut on the tensioner you will notice it towards the middle. Hook up a 14mm wrench ( long ) or a extended ratchet with a 14mm socket and turn to the right it will release the tension and you can slide the belt off. Once done you can remove the 14mm bolts for the alternator and slide it off; disconnect the connector and you can put the new unit on.

The car also is sporadically "loading up"-running very rich & not wanting to run at all. It starts and dies, it will not hold idle. I am going to replace the plugs, wires, distributer cap, rotor and coil. I'm also thinking about the O2 sensors and changing to a Denso MK IV fuel pump & filter. If needed, new RC injectors.

A: Do a full tune up on the motor, Clean out your maf sensor and your throttle body, make sure you dont spray directly into the throttle body, spray the cleaner on to a rag and wipe down. If you spray into the body you will liquify the carbon and it will clog up your IAC valve and cause more issues.

I have checked the vac lines & all "look" good, I could replace them w/ new ones. I'm also going to replace the serpentine belt and the timing belt w/ a Gates Racing belt & a new tensioner for both belts. Also going to change to an ATI Super Damper.

What else should I be looking for to solve this problem?

A: Do the above first dont get too far ahead of yourself and start replacing everything under the sun. My whole motto is if it aint broken dont fix it. Take it a step at a time. Do whats listed above then post up if you still are having the same issues. If your going to do the timing belt get new idler pulleys for the t-belt, t-belt tensioner and new cam,crank seals. while your at it.

The only other Major pita is the gauge pod lighting and the speedo not working, but I checked w/ Lexus & they can send it out to be rebuilt.

A: Those are not repaired easily. I have tried numerous times and they need to be carefully reconfigured.

Thanks for any input and help you can provide.

-Fred

Originally Posted by TACH_MOTOR

Do the above first then hit me back up if you are still having the same issues. Good luck

Originally Posted by TACH_MOTOR

You can talk them down to 10-12 hours. There not going by book time. Book time on a evap core is around 10 hours, condenser is around 2-3 hours. You can bargain with them since your not under warranty and are a paying customer you can go to another dealership.

Originally Posted by TACH_MOTOR

For you too have that many cylinder misfires I would re-check the timing. Remember the Bank 1 cam on a rx300 is under load and when the timing belt is removed or installed it can slide either direction front or reverse. Check the timing from the crank and both the cams. I have a feeling your rear cam may have jumped a tooth or two. Get that sorted out first. It may also be the cause of your tranny malfunctioning.

Originally Posted by Percy

Tach -

Finished all the work and was very detail driven. Cleaned out all the ducts, blower motor blades, etc. When I took out the evap core it was completely soaked with the dye and the bottom of the core had rotted away. This was more than likely from the cushion that Lexus used on initial installation. The newer core design has no such padding so that the condensation can pass through unimpeded.

There was a problem though. The steering wheel didn't want to mount back up to the bolt hole locations. Took it to the dealer this morning - had to get it towed. They claim that the steering wheel shaft had collapsed and it was unrepairable.

Have you ever opened up one of the steering / telescoping units before? How tough to replace/repair?

Percy

Originally Posted by jmansargen

Yes the bank 1 cam does tend to roll when you install so I had to do it twice at first to get it right but I am getting bank 2 codes. Checked timing marks again and marks are perfect. I marked the pulleys and crank in 2 places before I took the timing belt off. cleared codes and no engine codes yet. I checked front bank ignition coils and they were firing with the spark plugs. engine runs with a little skip and transmission shifts up and down when the auto trans changes gears still. The codes for 300, misfire, 302 cylinder 2, 304 cylinder 4 , 306 cylinder six were showing up before I cleared. But now is not. I checked ocv valves on both banks with 5vdc and the coil shifted the valve normally. When I plug my OBD- 2 scanner into the car the engine runs smooth and the transmission shifts normally and the car runs good. but when I unplug it going down the road the tranny and engine starts acting up again. Why does it do this? been working on this car now for 2 weeks and don't have the funds right now to take it to the shop. , Thanks so much for your responses.

Originally Posted by TACH_MOTOR

This might seem strange to you but check for any ground cables disconnected; You may have a grounding problem. Let me know on that and I will look further into this and let you know