Member Help thread from a Lexus Certified Technician
06-25-10, 08:51 PM
#496
Lead Lap
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Hey TACH, AAMCO quoted me $700 to do the job, saying that it's all external Trans parts. Solenoids ect.
How does that price sound to you?
Do you recommend any other places besides them?
I tried my regular guy but he did not want to get involved with trans problems.
Thanks so much for your time and all your help!
I don't have to tell you how lucky we are to have a beast like you on CL
How does that price sound to you?
Do you recommend any other places besides them?
I tried my regular guy but he did not want to get involved with trans problems.
Thanks so much for your time and all your help!
I don't have to tell you how lucky we are to have a beast like you on CL
I say go for it. See if you can negotiate a little but if they wont budge then just do it.
06-26-10, 03:49 AM
#498
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[QUOTE=TACH_MOTOR;5595811]
What is the name of the motor you speak of? the air mix servomotor? air inlet/out servomotor?
That was my first post, the problem with my AC is that it not blowing cold... It blowing warn air. I don't really know the problem but i tried checking for leaks and compassion already and see no problems there.... And did the diagnosis on the climate control and it flashes code 21.[/QUOTE
With the windows closed and no outside/inside noise turn the temp dial to hot and cold and listen for the temp control motor if you dont hear it switching the vent for cold/hot then you will need to remove your glove box and check the motor visually and see if it is moving or something is stuck in it, You may have a defective unit which you can move manually to cold and see if thats whats wrong.
With the windows closed and no outside/inside noise turn the temp dial to hot and cold and listen for the temp control motor if you dont hear it switching the vent for cold/hot then you will need to remove your glove box and check the motor visually and see if it is moving or something is stuck in it, You may have a defective unit which you can move manually to cold and see if thats whats wrong.
06-26-10, 05:33 PM
#499
TACH!!!! MYSTERY FINALLY SOLVED!!!!,,,lol,,
As you and I have been back and forth on my issue with battery drain for the past few months, just wanted to give an update. My spontaneous battery drain issue has been located and corrected. Last month, while doing wire readings with a voltmeter, we found that I had a wire that had corroded itself on the harness that plugs into the back of the alternator. The wire had broken off inside of the harness itself and was still held in place by the harness housing thou, so it was not an obvious DUH situation. Cut the old harness off, went to the local boneyard and grabbed another donor harness and cut it with some length on it so I would have some extra length on mine. Replaced that , and I thought it was all good; but alas,,NOT!!! The battery was still having the drain problem. Got mad again, and started wire tracing again, and found that the capacitor that I had in the trunk for my subs had been power surged and I suspected that this was now the culprit as it might be pulling from the battery faster than it could charge. Deleted this,, still same problem. Finally got pissed with it, went under it again, voltmeter in hand, buddy at rear end where subs and power wires coming into the trunk area were, voltmeter in hand, and trusted mechanic on the topside under the hood, voltmeter in hand, and did work. Result was as follows. Battery voltage by itself,,13-14 volts (don't remember exactly). Car running with nothing on,,13-14 volts. Running with radio, headlights, wipers, heat,,,12-13 volts. Removed battery cable(positive),, shot up to 17-18 volts (holy sheesh!!!,,,,shut the car off immediately)
Result was,, the corroded wire that I discovered last month,and changed on the wiring harness, had previously allowed the battery to send a power surge thru the alternator(prior to me discovering the wire harness was bad). This surge, in turn, damaged the voltage regulator (inside of the alternator), as well as a few other components. Replaced the alternator(under warranty) and all is well now. Still leaving the capacitor out of the audio equasion(may re-install with a new one{old one surged** at a later time if I upgrade my audio to something more serious than I have now). Honestly would have NEVER went back to the alternator again, since I knew that I had replaced it(myself) back in November; but after slowly going thru the elimination process, there was nothing left. Goodness gracious, this problem was EXTREMELY painful to diagnose since most of the charging system had been replaced over several months. The following had been replaced since november,,,
Alternator(re-maned), benched before install - November
New battery - December
New 120 amp alt fuse - March (after the winter thaw)
Replaced alternator wiring harness from donor - May
Deleted audio Capcitor from system after discovering surged - June
New(re-maned) alternator (under warranty) - last week
The old girl frustrated me badly,,, you know what he had been previously pm'ing about a few times, and I almost took you up on that offer to come and get her for good. LOL!!!
As you and I have been back and forth on my issue with battery drain for the past few months, just wanted to give an update. My spontaneous battery drain issue has been located and corrected. Last month, while doing wire readings with a voltmeter, we found that I had a wire that had corroded itself on the harness that plugs into the back of the alternator. The wire had broken off inside of the harness itself and was still held in place by the harness housing thou, so it was not an obvious DUH situation. Cut the old harness off, went to the local boneyard and grabbed another donor harness and cut it with some length on it so I would have some extra length on mine. Replaced that , and I thought it was all good; but alas,,NOT!!! The battery was still having the drain problem. Got mad again, and started wire tracing again, and found that the capacitor that I had in the trunk for my subs had been power surged and I suspected that this was now the culprit as it might be pulling from the battery faster than it could charge. Deleted this,, still same problem. Finally got pissed with it, went under it again, voltmeter in hand, buddy at rear end where subs and power wires coming into the trunk area were, voltmeter in hand, and trusted mechanic on the topside under the hood, voltmeter in hand, and did work. Result was as follows. Battery voltage by itself,,13-14 volts (don't remember exactly). Car running with nothing on,,13-14 volts. Running with radio, headlights, wipers, heat,,,12-13 volts. Removed battery cable(positive),, shot up to 17-18 volts (holy sheesh!!!,,,,shut the car off immediately)
Result was,, the corroded wire that I discovered last month,and changed on the wiring harness, had previously allowed the battery to send a power surge thru the alternator(prior to me discovering the wire harness was bad). This surge, in turn, damaged the voltage regulator (inside of the alternator), as well as a few other components. Replaced the alternator(under warranty) and all is well now. Still leaving the capacitor out of the audio equasion(may re-install with a new one{old one surged** at a later time if I upgrade my audio to something more serious than I have now). Honestly would have NEVER went back to the alternator again, since I knew that I had replaced it(myself) back in November; but after slowly going thru the elimination process, there was nothing left. Goodness gracious, this problem was EXTREMELY painful to diagnose since most of the charging system had been replaced over several months. The following had been replaced since november,,,
Alternator(re-maned), benched before install - November
New battery - December
New 120 amp alt fuse - March (after the winter thaw)
Replaced alternator wiring harness from donor - May
Deleted audio Capcitor from system after discovering surged - June
New(re-maned) alternator (under warranty) - last week
The old girl frustrated me badly,,, you know what he had been previously pm'ing about a few times, and I almost took you up on that offer to come and get her for good. LOL!!!
Last edited by trukn1; 06-27-10 at 11:37 PM.
06-26-10, 09:07 PM
#500
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That was my first post, the problem with my AC is that it not blowing cold... It blowing warn air. I don't really know the problem but i tried checking for leaks and compassion already and see no problems there.... And did the diagnosis on the climate control and it flashes code 21.
06-28-10, 08:21 AM
#501
Thanks so much! I will work on this. I forgot to put the mileage of the car down! My 99 LS has 116k miles on it. I appreciate your response!!
Micah
Micah
Micah,
Thanks for your kind remarks. Since your car is a '99 and possibly high mileage; I would look at all the suspension arms more so the upper control arms and see if there is any wear on the rubber; To test the inner and outer tie rods jack the front of the car up and grab the wheel at 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock and move the it from side to side ( not with excessive force where your actually moving the wheel right and left; just enough to feel any play in the wheel) if there is replace both the inner and outer rods. Another test is to grab the wheel at 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock and move it back and forth if you feel play you will need lower ball joints and possibly upper control arm.
Hope this helps. If you have any questions or concerns dont hesitate to post. Good luck
Thanks for your kind remarks. Since your car is a '99 and possibly high mileage; I would look at all the suspension arms more so the upper control arms and see if there is any wear on the rubber; To test the inner and outer tie rods jack the front of the car up and grab the wheel at 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock and move the it from side to side ( not with excessive force where your actually moving the wheel right and left; just enough to feel any play in the wheel) if there is replace both the inner and outer rods. Another test is to grab the wheel at 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock and move it back and forth if you feel play you will need lower ball joints and possibly upper control arm.
Hope this helps. If you have any questions or concerns dont hesitate to post. Good luck
06-28-10, 11:42 AM
#503
Lead Lap
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You may just be out of freon, Looking through the sight glass is not enough indication weather you have sufficent freon or not. You will need to go to a shop and have them evacuate your freon and find out how much of it is left in the system, You will know how much to put back into the car from under your hood; There is a label that states how many lbs to put in. You can also have the shop put in a/c dye to weed out any leaks in the system.
06-28-10, 11:47 AM
#504
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TACH!!!! MYSTERY FINALLY SOLVED!!!!,,,lol,,
As you and I have been back and forth on my issue with battery drain for the past few months, just wanted to give an update. My spontaneous battery drain issue has been located and corrected. Last month, while doing wire readings with a voltmeter, we found that I had a wire that had corroded itself on the harness that plugs into the back of the alternator. The wire had broken off inside of the harness itself and was still held in place by the harness housing thou, so it was not an obvious DUH situation. Cut the old harness off, went to the local boneyard and grabbed another donor harness and cut it with some length on it so I would have some extra length on mine. Replaced that , and I thought it was all good; but alas,,NOT!!! The battery was still having the drain problem. Got mad again, and started wire tracing again, and found that the capacitor that I had in the trunk for my subs had been power surged and I suspected that this was now the culprit as it might be pulling from the battery faster than it could charge. Deleted this,, still same problem. Finally got pissed with it, went under it again, voltmeter in hand, buddy at rear end where subs and power wires coming into the trunk area were, voltmeter in hand, and trusted mechanic on the topside under the hood, voltmeter in hand, and did work. Result was as follows. Battery voltage by itself,,13-14 volts (don't remember exactly). Car running with nothing on,,13-14 volts. Running with radio, headlights, wipers, heat,,,12-13 volts. Removed battery cable(positive),, shot up to 17-18 volts (holy sheesh!!!,,,,shut the car off immediately)
Result was,, the corroded wire that I discovered last month,and changed on the wiring harness, had previously allowed the battery to send a power surge thru the alternator(prior to me discovering the wire harness was bad). This surge, in turn, damaged the voltage regulator (inside of the alternator), as well as a few other components. Replaced the alternator(under warranty) and all is well now. Still leaving the capacitor out of the audio equasion(may re-install with a new one{old one surged** at a later time if I upgrade my audio to something more serious than I have now). Honestly would have NEVER went back to the alternator again, since I knew that I had replaced it(myself) back in November; but after slowly going thru the elimination process, there was nothing left. Goodness gracious, this problem was EXTREMELY painful to diagnose since most of the charging system had been replaced over several months. The following had been replaced since november,,,
Alternator(re-maned), benched before install - November
New battery - December
New 120 amp alt fuse - March (after the winter thaw)
Replaced alternator wiring harness from donor - May
Deleted audio Capcitor from system after discovering surged - June
New(re-maned) alternator (under warranty) - last week
The old girl frustrated me badly,,, you know what he had been previously pm'ing about a few times, and I almost took you up on that offer to come and get her for good. LOL!!!
As you and I have been back and forth on my issue with battery drain for the past few months, just wanted to give an update. My spontaneous battery drain issue has been located and corrected. Last month, while doing wire readings with a voltmeter, we found that I had a wire that had corroded itself on the harness that plugs into the back of the alternator. The wire had broken off inside of the harness itself and was still held in place by the harness housing thou, so it was not an obvious DUH situation. Cut the old harness off, went to the local boneyard and grabbed another donor harness and cut it with some length on it so I would have some extra length on mine. Replaced that , and I thought it was all good; but alas,,NOT!!! The battery was still having the drain problem. Got mad again, and started wire tracing again, and found that the capacitor that I had in the trunk for my subs had been power surged and I suspected that this was now the culprit as it might be pulling from the battery faster than it could charge. Deleted this,, still same problem. Finally got pissed with it, went under it again, voltmeter in hand, buddy at rear end where subs and power wires coming into the trunk area were, voltmeter in hand, and trusted mechanic on the topside under the hood, voltmeter in hand, and did work. Result was as follows. Battery voltage by itself,,13-14 volts (don't remember exactly). Car running with nothing on,,13-14 volts. Running with radio, headlights, wipers, heat,,,12-13 volts. Removed battery cable(positive),, shot up to 17-18 volts (holy sheesh!!!,,,,shut the car off immediately)
Result was,, the corroded wire that I discovered last month,and changed on the wiring harness, had previously allowed the battery to send a power surge thru the alternator(prior to me discovering the wire harness was bad). This surge, in turn, damaged the voltage regulator (inside of the alternator), as well as a few other components. Replaced the alternator(under warranty) and all is well now. Still leaving the capacitor out of the audio equasion(may re-install with a new one{old one surged** at a later time if I upgrade my audio to something more serious than I have now). Honestly would have NEVER went back to the alternator again, since I knew that I had replaced it(myself) back in November; but after slowly going thru the elimination process, there was nothing left. Goodness gracious, this problem was EXTREMELY painful to diagnose since most of the charging system had been replaced over several months. The following had been replaced since november,,,
Alternator(re-maned), benched before install - November
New battery - December
New 120 amp alt fuse - March (after the winter thaw)
Replaced alternator wiring harness from donor - May
Deleted audio Capcitor from system after discovering surged - June
New(re-maned) alternator (under warranty) - last week
The old girl frustrated me badly,,, you know what he had been previously pm'ing about a few times, and I almost took you up on that offer to come and get her for good. LOL!!!
06-28-10, 11:48 AM
#505
Lead Lap
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No problem Micah, its just maintenance woes; Rubber deteriorate over time and need to be replaced no biggie. Once you have it changed im sure your concern will be dealt with. Good luck
06-28-10, 04:32 PM
#506
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You may just be out of freon, Looking through the sight glass is not enough indication weather you have sufficent freon or not. You will need to go to a shop and have them evacuate your freon and find out how much of it is left in the system, You will know how much to put back into the car from under your hood; There is a label that states how many lbs to put in. You can also have the shop put in a/c dye to weed out any leaks in the system.
06-28-10, 07:17 PM
#507
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It could be something as bad as a clogged evap core, bad condenser, or a stuck expansion valve. Something like this you are better off taking it to a shop that has an AC recovery machine which they can fully evacuate the system and check the components out.
Double check by removing your glove box and checking if there any broken pieces causing the arm not too swing the to the cold position; I understand that you can hear the motor working but try to look and see if its still in its tract.
Double check by removing your glove box and checking if there any broken pieces causing the arm not too swing the to the cold position; I understand that you can hear the motor working but try to look and see if its still in its tract.
07-02-10, 07:58 PM
#508
95 sc300, a/c problems. if i turn the **** all the way left to full ac cold, it goes all the way down to 66 then 75 when i click it all the way left. is it a **** problem? thanks for the help
07-03-10, 07:48 AM
#509
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It may be the a/c control system malfunctioning. This is unorthodox but unplug your battery and leave it for a few minutes and replug it in, Sometimes a hard reset corrects little bugs in the systems.
If that doesnt help your going to need a new a/c control unit.
If that doesnt help your going to need a new a/c control unit.