Member Help thread from a Lexus Certified Technician
07-06-10, 06:22 PM
#527
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Check the connections around the a/c compressor also while having someone press the a/c switch on and off tap near the compressor clutch and see if it engages. If it does you may have a seized compressor clutch. Its understandable that it was replaced ones before however this does happen more often than you think
07-06-10, 10:08 PM
#528
Check the connections around the a/c compressor also while having someone press the a/c switch on and off tap near the compressor clutch and see if it engages. If it does you may have a seized compressor clutch. Its understandable that it was replaced ones before however this does happen more often than you think
07-07-10, 05:28 PM
#529
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Hiya. I was wondering if you could help me diagnose a p0125 code i am getting. I have an 02 sc430 and i just got a code to replace my bank1, sensor1 o2 (i cant remember what the code was). I replaced the sensor with a bosch unit and am now getting the p0125 code after 15 mins of driving or so. I cant get it smogged and need to asap. I have seen the possible things to look at that could cause this code and there seems to be many things that it could be regarding with the fuel system and I am getting lost. Is there any chance that the other (bank2, sensor1) has gone bad and needs to be replaced as well? If it is the bank 2 sensor... wouldnt it show a code just for that alone? I have seen numerous posts on this site having the same problems with the p0125 code after they change their 02 sensor but nobody is following up on how the problem was fixed. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Last edited by Swishh; 07-07-10 at 05:31 PM.
07-07-10, 06:44 PM
#530
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I can understand that things fail however to have 3 fail in 3 years seems to me like there is something causing this failure to occur no? I had this issue happen today and I pulled over and swapped the relays around, and it still didnt do anything. The clutch might be getting stuck but the clutch is magnetic right? I want to know why it would be failing? Can you think of any other component that could be causing the failure? I also ran thru the climate control check when the A/C went out today and it popped up a code 21 and code 24(it was dark when I did it hence this code) but code 21 is compressor lockout circuit right? Why would this be getting triggering? Thank you for all of your help it is greatly appreciated.
07-07-10, 06:51 PM
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Hiya. I was wondering if you could help me diagnose a p0125 code i am getting. I have an 02 sc430 and i just got a code to replace my bank1, sensor1 o2 (i cant remember what the code was). I replaced the sensor with a bosch unit and am now getting the p0125 code after 15 mins of driving or so. I cant get it smogged and need to asap. I have seen the possible things to look at that could cause this code and there seems to be many things that it could be regarding with the fuel system and I am getting lost. Is there any chance that the other (bank2, sensor1) has gone bad and needs to be replaced as well? If it is the bank 2 sensor... wouldnt it show a code just for that alone? I have seen numerous posts on this site having the same problems with the p0125 code after they change their 02 sensor but nobody is following up on how the problem was fixed. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Hey, P0125 is your coolant system. How many miles on your car ? you may have a stuck thermostat. Check your coolant level if it is at the right level, then replace your thermostat and coolant temp sensor.
07-08-10, 12:41 AM
#532
Thats pretty much the clutch malfunctioning, It is magnetic however if it builds up rust it will cause issues for the magnet and once a signal is sent to engage and it doesnt a code will be stored. Do you wash your engine a lot ? or do you have an under panel ( cover for under the engine ) ?
07-08-10, 01:29 AM
#533
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That could be your issue, Running without the underguard can cause water to splash on the compressor because it sits so low in the engine compartment. With snow,sleet and rain you can easily build up rust in the unit and it can fail.
07-08-10, 04:05 AM
#534
Possible but unlikely since the alternator and the compressor sit just as low why is only the compressor affected? I know multiple guys who run without the cover and have never experienced this issue. Can you think of anything else that I havent replaced that might be causing the issue?
07-08-10, 08:24 AM
#535
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I just thought i could give a small input here. A/C system is a real delicate component to work on maybe after 3 times of failure you should consider a new mechanic. I did see you mentioned you replaced comp w/clutch, and condenser due to rock. But one very important part is reciever/drier.
I had a similar problem happen when i had a mechanic replace my compressor. i went through 3 compressors in a year, and one even blew up. So i finally took it somewhere else had them replace the comp and rec/dryer(which is a good idea to replace anytime the a/c system is open). Yours could be clogged. I i havent had a problem for 3years now. I would go back and check reciepts. This is part of a a/c comp. replacement job.
I had a similar problem happen when i had a mechanic replace my compressor. i went through 3 compressors in a year, and one even blew up. So i finally took it somewhere else had them replace the comp and rec/dryer(which is a good idea to replace anytime the a/c system is open). Yours could be clogged. I i havent had a problem for 3years now. I would go back and check reciepts. This is part of a a/c comp. replacement job.
07-08-10, 11:37 AM
#536
I just thought i could give a small input here. A/C system is a real delicate component to work on maybe after 3 times of failure you should consider a new mechanic. I did see you mentioned you replaced comp w/clutch, and condenser due to rock. But one very important part is reciever/drier.
I had a similar problem happen when i had a mechanic replace my compressor. i went through 3 compressors in a year, and one even blew up. So i finally took it somewhere else had them replace the comp and rec/dryer(which is a good idea to replace anytime the a/c system is open). Yours could be clogged. I i havent had a problem for 3years now. I would go back and check reciepts. This is part of a a/c comp. replacement job.
I had a similar problem happen when i had a mechanic replace my compressor. i went through 3 compressors in a year, and one even blew up. So i finally took it somewhere else had them replace the comp and rec/dryer(which is a good idea to replace anytime the a/c system is open). Yours could be clogged. I i havent had a problem for 3years now. I would go back and check reciepts. This is part of a a/c comp. replacement job.
07-08-10, 04:17 PM
#537
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(Rec) Reciever/Dryer component. It doesnt hurt to replace it. Also reason why the compressor clutch can fail and not the alternator is alternator components inside are brushes and copper wire wound which does not rust, Think of the compressor clutch like rotors you drive your car for a while and let it sit after a rain storm; you start noticing some rust on the rotors due to the reaction with the climate, the compressor clutch is the same way.
07-08-10, 06:24 PM
#538
Tach Motor. 3 questions.
1) I have a 2001 LS430 with 99.500 miles. I purchased it one month ago. Last week I experienced being stuck in Park when starting the car. I didn't get a chance to check if the brake lights were working or if the Park light on the dash was on. I eventually shut the car off and when restarting it, I got it into drive. I know about the bypass button now, but didn't need it then. Stoplight switch? Anything else to check the next time it happens?
2) My trunk occassionally has the lock latch mechanism close while the trunk is in the open position. Today, I managed to free it by using the remote trunk button. I thought I saw a TSB for this issue.
3) I'm curious on this one. When starting the car, and looking at the fuel gauge, I notice it bouncing up and down a few times before it goes straight to the current level. It will do the same thing everytime I start the car and only when starting the car. It is fine while driving. It does read accurately after the initial one or two bounces. Gauge? Sensor? Cost? If you were to guess, how long could it continue this way? Thanks for your help. I just found this thread after hanging around this forum for years!!!!!!! Great Idea.
1) I have a 2001 LS430 with 99.500 miles. I purchased it one month ago. Last week I experienced being stuck in Park when starting the car. I didn't get a chance to check if the brake lights were working or if the Park light on the dash was on. I eventually shut the car off and when restarting it, I got it into drive. I know about the bypass button now, but didn't need it then. Stoplight switch? Anything else to check the next time it happens?
2) My trunk occassionally has the lock latch mechanism close while the trunk is in the open position. Today, I managed to free it by using the remote trunk button. I thought I saw a TSB for this issue.
3) I'm curious on this one. When starting the car, and looking at the fuel gauge, I notice it bouncing up and down a few times before it goes straight to the current level. It will do the same thing everytime I start the car and only when starting the car. It is fine while driving. It does read accurately after the initial one or two bounces. Gauge? Sensor? Cost? If you were to guess, how long could it continue this way? Thanks for your help. I just found this thread after hanging around this forum for years!!!!!!! Great Idea.
Last edited by Bocatrip; 07-08-10 at 07:36 PM.
07-09-10, 03:00 PM
#539
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I was wondering if you could look up part numbers? if so i was wondering if you could solve this ongoing dilemma about the 2jzge vs 2jzge vvt-i. i need to know if the bottom end part numbers are the same. rods, pistons, crank, etc...... There is always that say vvt-i have weaker components. but some say its the same.
Im referring to the SC300 models^^^^^
Ive found out that with the Toyota supra TT. the 2jzgTe vs 2jzgTe vvt-i have the same bottom end and people say that it was supposed to be weaker. http://www.supraforums.com.au/forum/...ad.php?t=45332
thanks in advance. its great what you are doing here.
Im referring to the SC300 models^^^^^
Ive found out that with the Toyota supra TT. the 2jzgTe vs 2jzgTe vvt-i have the same bottom end and people say that it was supposed to be weaker. http://www.supraforums.com.au/forum/...ad.php?t=45332
thanks in advance. its great what you are doing here.
07-10-10, 09:42 AM
#540
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Tach Motor. 3 questions.
1) I have a 2001 LS430 with 99.500 miles. I purchased it one month ago. Last week I experienced being stuck in Park when starting the car. I didn't get a chance to check if the brake lights were working or if the Park light on the dash was on. I eventually shut the car off and when restarting it, I got it into drive. I know about the bypass button now, but didn't need it then. Stoplight switch? Anything else to check the next time it happens?
2) My trunk occassionally has the lock latch mechanism close while the trunk is in the open position. Today, I managed to free it by using the remote trunk button. I thought I saw a TSB for this issue.
3) I'm curious on this one. When starting the car, and looking at the fuel gauge, I notice it bouncing up and down a few times before it goes straight to the current level. It will do the same thing everytime I start the car and only when starting the car. It is fine while driving. It does read accurately after the initial one or two bounces. Gauge? Sensor? Cost? If you were to guess, how long could it continue this way? Thanks for your help. I just found this thread after hanging around this forum for years!!!!!!! Great Idea.
1) I have a 2001 LS430 with 99.500 miles. I purchased it one month ago. Last week I experienced being stuck in Park when starting the car. I didn't get a chance to check if the brake lights were working or if the Park light on the dash was on. I eventually shut the car off and when restarting it, I got it into drive. I know about the bypass button now, but didn't need it then. Stoplight switch? Anything else to check the next time it happens?
2) My trunk occassionally has the lock latch mechanism close while the trunk is in the open position. Today, I managed to free it by using the remote trunk button. I thought I saw a TSB for this issue.
3) I'm curious on this one. When starting the car, and looking at the fuel gauge, I notice it bouncing up and down a few times before it goes straight to the current level. It will do the same thing everytime I start the car and only when starting the car. It is fine while driving. It does read accurately after the initial one or two bounces. Gauge? Sensor? Cost? If you were to guess, how long could it continue this way? Thanks for your help. I just found this thread after hanging around this forum for years!!!!!!! Great Idea.
1) Since you purchased the car used remove the shifter trim and make sure there is no "gunk" in their i.e. - spilled beverages sticking to the mechanisms, Some people are snobs and dont care for their luxury vehicles and spill everything under the sun.
2) You will have to take it to the dealer and have them pull the vin and check to see if anything was done for it. If not they will take care of it.
3) Thats a normal occurrence it happens on most LS models in that year range. You don't need to waste $$ fixing it unless it bothers you; then you will need a new cluster fuel gauge; Im not 100% sure if they sell it separately. Normally dealers selll the entire unit as a whole
Thanks; post up if you have any other Q's