TACH_MOTOR

did this happen right after you installed the intake or after a few weeks/months later ? The piggy back is just a maf amplifier. Basic maf voltage is from 0-5 volts, all the piggy back does is increase the voltage going to the maf to compensate for the bigger size intake pipe. Do let me know thanks

TACH_MOTOR

It could be as bad as weld joints broken in the body causing the actual metal frame to click when hitting certain bumps, or the problem can be as small as brake caliper click ( pad shift )

Take it to a shop and have them tighten down the front and rear subframe bolts as well. If they loosen up a tad they can make that noise.

Keep me posted on what you do.

Tensi

Hi. The dealer already tightened up the subframe bolts. The sound is still there. The brake pad click is always present, but its not that noise. This is a much more harsh sound. A clear clunk sound. It does not replicate over bumps... it is just when getting in initially and when doing K Turns.

I am going to see if I can get it on video.

msdelexus

Hi Tach,

My 03 es300 is due for its 90k miles service. I plan to have this done by an independent mechanic. In replacing the timing belt, should I include the other drive belts as well? Also, would you recomend a flush instead of a drain and refill transmission fluid change at this mileage? All previous transmission fluid changes were drain and refill.
Thanks

darrylg33

I had a bunch of CEL's as I was putting the car back together--it was salvage and most of the damage was to the engine after a front end hit. These are the only two CEL's that remain. I took it to Lexus and they had no clue and blamed it on the intake

Li Ls4

iTrader: (12)

whats up tach
i have a big problem with my 92 sc300. the car has a old viper alarm in it and out of the blue a few days ago i couldnt unlock the car and if i dont use the viper system to unlock the car i cant start the car. so i thought the alarm went. i replaced the battery in the pager, that wasnt it, then i disconnected the viper computer and rewired the starter and ignition wires that were taped into back to stock. and nothing has changed
what doesnt work.
-cant start the car
-cant unlock-lock the car with any switch in the car
-cant move the seat
-cant roll down the windows
-when the key is in the ignition nothing turns on, cluster, radio exc..

what still works.
-horn
-headlights
-hazards
-light in the dash that shows the door is open.
-when the door is open the light around the key hole is on and when the door is locked and closed it turns off
-when the key is in the ignition theres that beeping to remind u that the key is still in

i checked the battey with my volt meeter. changed the battery terminals, checked the fuses, even changed the main power fuse under the kicker panel. i went with a test light to the fuse box and there is no power going to any of the fuses but there is power in the relay fuse box. what am i missing?

TACH_MOTOR

This is hard to determine without physically seeing it, start eliminating possible causes, seat bolts, under bracing etc..

TACH_MOTOR

Get the following replaced

• Timing belt
• water pump
• thermostat
• spark plugs
• t-belt tensioner
• idler pulleys
• crank seal
• cam seals
• accessory belts
• toyota red fluid only!

trans just drain and fill, if you do a full flush it may damage the tranny

TACH_MOTOR

Make sure you dont have any cracked or loose vacuum hoses, I have a strong feeling you will need to replace the charcoal canister.

TACH_MOTOR

You may have a bad junction block, Try swapping out junction blocks with someone else you know with an sc. Let me know what you come up with; I will most likely attending the next Lexus meet we can speak further about it then.

Li Ls4

iTrader: (12)

thanks tach, ill try and get my hands on a junction block and see what happens

Li Ls4

iTrader: (12)

ok so i didnt close the hood all the way last night. i when i got back from work today i went to open the hood and the alarm went of so i went in the car, put the key in the ignition and the cluster and radio turned on. went to turn the car and it started up like nothing ever happened. so i turned it off to see if it would turn on again and it did.

i am so confused right now. did something reset itself even though the battery was still hooked up?

its great that the car works again, but now im nervous about this happening again randomly and i might not be so lucky that the car is going to be parked in front of my house.

EDIT: 10 min later i go back to start the car and now im back to where i started from with no power and unable to start the car. what is going on with this car?

darrylg33

Definitely no loose vac lines, cracked, have to hook it up to a smoke machine and I can't find one local-if you know of a shop in queens that has one that would be cool. I thought it might be the charcoal canister but since the codes read circuit malfunction I thought that it was more electrical--that is an expensive repair if you don't know what your doing and all indications are you have to remove the rear diff to get at it so I want to know for sure before spending that kind of $$

TACH_MOTOR

Check all your ground and power connections. Its probably something as simple as that.

TACH_MOTOR

There are electrical connections on the charcoal canister also the diff does not need to be removed, you can lower the rear sub frame and snake it out. I personally don't know any shop with one besides a dealer.

Reason why most shops dont have one is they cost over $1500+