TACH_MOTOR

Bill,

It could be bad wheel speed sensors. Or the car actually slipping. IS this happening when the car is not moving or moving ?

deanshark

Hey TACH MOTOR, figured I would ask here, closer to home. 93 LS400 w/126k. I did timing belt 14k miles ago w/water pump, idlers and tensioner. I didn't do the cam and crank seals. (Idiot me) Last week the car was running good, then it made a drone noise and had no power. It felt like 4 cylinders so I limped it home a few miles. (maybe in limp or fail safe mode, whatever) Then it wouldn't start, it had spark at plugs and plenty of fuel. I finally looked at the timing marks, guess what, The crank and L cam lined up, the R (passenger) cam was about 6 teeth off, backwards. The crank seal and L cam seals are leaking. Now the questions;
Would that oil from the seals cause the timing belt to slip? It would mean the cam would have had to turn almost 1 full turn or can it be something locked up the cam for a split second and the belt jumped 6 teeth?
When I remove and replace the T-belt, do you think I should change everything else again? (Idlers, tensioner, water pump) I mean, they've only been on for 14k miles.
When I line up the timing marks I just need to turn the R cam those 6 teeth, right? There's nothing else that needs to be done, correct? As long as the 3 timing marks line up with the new belt, spin the crank 2 turns, and they still line up I'll be good to go?
Thanks for any answers ya got. I just got done changing the heater core and this happens. I can't wait to drive it again, with heat. Thnx again.

Blk03GS430

Yes the car does drift a little when driving it. They spent about 45 minutes on my car. He did mention that I may have to replace the camber bolts since theres a littlle bit of rust and that next time he may not be able to adjust it.

Should I bring it back and have them do it again since its drifting a little? Hopefully I dotn have to pay again.

My concern is that I just bought 4 new tires and I dont want a poorly aligned vehicle to eat away at the life of the new tires. I just want the tires to last as long as possible. The old rear tires had uneven tread wear, especially the inside of the tire was wearing out alot faster than the middle or outside of the tire. I didnt notice it until I removed the tire.

Thanks in advance for your time and help.

bachlauter

Tach Motor--you're my hero! Thanks for doing this!

1999 es300 112,500 miles

had p0171 code
changed air filter, maf sensor and two O2 sensors (NOT the one under the car)
cel and trac off still on after reset.
new code p0330
car is acting crazy...transmission won't shift out of third gear...restarting the car is a temporary fix.
I want to replace the knock sensors.
I figured I'd replace them both.
Are there a right and a left sensor? Or are they the same sensor.
Also, is it a 6 hour job as I have read, to change these out?
Should this fix the problem?



tia!
~Christy

goaliebill

When moving. Once the temperature goes up, for example, in the afternoon, no issues. The "Trac" light stays on for 5-10 seconds, then goes out. I've goosed it and provoked wheel slippage, so I don't think the traction system is working when the light is on.

CPMD

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the help

CMWis300

Po430 code fix. I battled this for a month and came up with a good cheap fix. I had the po430 code on a 2002 IS300. The cheap fix is to tie both of the bank 1 & 2 sensor 2 input wires at the ecu to the bank one sensor 2 output at the ecu. I used one gold plated butt splice connector at the ecu plug. You must leave both sensors and wiring in place good or bad for the heater load and bank one o2 sensor 2 must be good. You can find the pin out wiring diagram online at o2simulator.com. I feel as though it is a design flaw that everyone over 100K will have to deal with. You can spend thousands on cats and o2's and labor or a 20 cent butt splice connector. Hope this helps everyone.

rocketman

Hi Tach_Motor,
Is the idle hunting a normal characteristic for ALL lexus models when the battery is disconnected and reconnected? I had to disconnect my battery in order to connect it to a battery charger and after reconnecting the battery, it did take exactly (I timed it) 15 minutes (starts at 2000 rpm for 5 minutes, then at 1500 RPM for 10 minutes) before the idle speed dropped to the normal range (700-800 RPM). Just wanted to make sure it was not a problem with the ECM/Computer.

kdouglas39

Tach Motor

Is it okay to use seafoam to clean out the carbon buildup on the 2006 GS 300?
There is a port on the intake where it can be sprayed into. The DI Engines are know to have this issue and dealer wants about $600 to do a top engine clean.

sema52

Hi Tach Motor

I have a 2002 LS 430 with right at 70k. I am the second owner, purchased from a Lexus dealership. My problem: the low oil pressure dash light came on. I had it towed the the dealer where I purchased it, and after several days they called and said it has a sludge problem. To the point of having to replace rings. And suggestions here? They said that although I have changed the oil religiously and had the 60k checkup, that probably the previous owner may have never changed the oil. Which, I find difficult to understand.

Anyway, they said they were going to ask Toyoto for financial help for the repair. And that I might need to call them. I asked what the fee is, for changing the rings, and they said $5,000 for just that.

Do you have any advice for me? Specific questions I should be asking? Anything else I should be doing to keep the fix from being too expensive?

Thanks very much.

Dubzy

Hello!

I have a 2006 ES330 and I recently changed the stock GPS for an x910bt and got the PAC-SWI. The head unit ran fine for about 2 weeks no problems, but I hadn't hooked up the steering controls yet. It seems I read the diagram wrong and hooked the PACSWI up to the speed sensor in my mistake. Since then the VSC Light, TRAC OFF, and CEL has been on. I tried to disconnect the battery for about 30min from the negative terminal and I have not been able to clear these lights. I never hooked the speed sensor up to the head unit, and there doesn't seem to be any issue with driving, the ride is still fine. Do you think the sensor has been shorted out, the wiring? What do I do? As I read in multiple post there seems to be a few different sensors, but I am not sure which one this would be on my car.

Is there a different way to clear the lights on the dash?

Please point me in the right direction

100bajan

iTrader: (12)

I changed the gas cap, light was off for a few days and came back on, where can I find the schematics to identify the vsv for a 98 GS400 to try that next? And is it a dealer only part? What is a rough price on it? thanks
http://www.lexuspartsnow.com/Page_Pr...e&seeDesc=true

This is what I found about the parts for the VSV, now I see different prices and part numbers, how do I know which one to chose for my car?

TACH_MOTOR

Your very lucky as these motors are non-interference. Remove everything and inspect all the components. Def change out the crank and cam seals. Also put in new idler pulleys and t-belt tensioner. Water pump you can leave as the fins are metal and they wouldnt sustain damage. Keep us posted

TACH_MOTOR

Going by the spec sheet the numbers don't show that you will have heavy tire wear. You will normal wear.

TACH_MOTOR

p0171 is a system too lean. Please use 91-93 octane fuel only, if you use 87 grade fuel you will go lean and knock. Try that before changing out the knock sensors. As for changing them you will have to remove the intake manifold; the sensors I believe are the same.