Member Help thread from a Lexus Certified Technician
#932
Sorry for the late reply. Try the simplest fix first by replacing the remote battery.
#933
Tach thanks a lot for your help. I went forward in my attempt to change my timing belt. I have a followed the instructions given in a repair manual exactly. Upon my removal of the upper timing belt covers I found that the belt has not broken. So my no start condition had nothing to do with my timing belt.
Oh well since I have removed everything I decided to move forward and change the belt anyway. However I am stuck at the part where I need to remove the crank shaft pulley bolt and need some definitive advice. My instructions state that I need line up the crank shaft pulley mark & cam marks to the respective marks on the timing belt covers BEFORE I remove the CS Bolt. My problem: no matter how many times I turn the crank shaft over (clockwise only) the 3 timing marks never line up with the corresponding marks on the belt covers. The cam shaft marks are synchronized and will both line up at the same time but then CS pulley mark will then be off.
Can you or anybody tell me what I may be doing wrong? Do all 3 marks have to line up to change the belt properly? Again the belt is not broken, and it has tension on it. It has not skipped any teeth either, during my inspection I knocked off a couple of teeth, but not many. The cam shafts still turn in unison.
See my pictures below. After turning the crankshaft numerous times this is as close as I can get the 3 marks to line up. Any insight would be very much appreciated.
Pic 002 & 003 (1st two) are where the marks ended up on my first attempt to line up with the CS pulley yellow notch.
Pic 004 & 005 (2nd two) are where the marks ended up when I turned a few more times and tried to line up with the second mark (the white one). It was closer but the cam shaft marks still did not line up with the belt cover notches.
Pic 007 (last) shows where the crankshaft pulley notch ends up when I turn it far enough to have the cam shaft marks & notches line up properly.
HELP! I don't know where to go from here. I love this car and don't want to take a shortcut and destroy my valves.
Oh well since I have removed everything I decided to move forward and change the belt anyway. However I am stuck at the part where I need to remove the crank shaft pulley bolt and need some definitive advice. My instructions state that I need line up the crank shaft pulley mark & cam marks to the respective marks on the timing belt covers BEFORE I remove the CS Bolt. My problem: no matter how many times I turn the crank shaft over (clockwise only) the 3 timing marks never line up with the corresponding marks on the belt covers. The cam shaft marks are synchronized and will both line up at the same time but then CS pulley mark will then be off.
Can you or anybody tell me what I may be doing wrong? Do all 3 marks have to line up to change the belt properly? Again the belt is not broken, and it has tension on it. It has not skipped any teeth either, during my inspection I knocked off a couple of teeth, but not many. The cam shafts still turn in unison.
See my pictures below. After turning the crankshaft numerous times this is as close as I can get the 3 marks to line up. Any insight would be very much appreciated.
Pic 002 & 003 (1st two) are where the marks ended up on my first attempt to line up with the CS pulley yellow notch.
Pic 004 & 005 (2nd two) are where the marks ended up when I turned a few more times and tried to line up with the second mark (the white one). It was closer but the cam shaft marks still did not line up with the belt cover notches.
Pic 007 (last) shows where the crankshaft pulley notch ends up when I turn it far enough to have the cam shaft marks & notches line up properly.
HELP! I don't know where to go from here. I love this car and don't want to take a shortcut and destroy my valves.
Sorry for the late reply. Going by the pics you def skipped teeth and if thats the case you have bent valves. If you cant line up the marks no matter how much you spin the motor looks like the belt may have stretched and skipped. Your best bet is to borrow/buy a compression tester and do a quick compression test. You will know if you have bent valves if you have compression lower than 120psi
#934
Hey TACH, I got a simple question for you, I hope. 93 LS400. My timing belt jumped after only 14K miles. Also I have a bad Air Flow Meter, which has been unplugged for about 10K of those miles. I was wondering, Would the bad AFM advance/retard the timing enough to stretch the T-belt to where it would jump? I know it's running rich and the plugs were just about fouled b/c of it. I do need to change the AFM but money is tight and was just wondering if I should do it before I spend money on other repairs.
TIA
TIA
#935
Hey Tach, I have been trying to get an answer to this question for quite sometime with no avail. I am hoping that you can help me. I have 97 Es300 with about 188k miles on it. My tail lamps are not working when I have on my headlights. They just stopped coming on one day. No sign of one of them going out or anything. They just all went. My license plate light is on and one of the bulbs are working. None of the other ones are working. The fuse is good and all the bulbs are good. I replaced them all. I took it to a shop to get it diagnosed and they said it was a "module 2". What is that module? I know I can fix it myself if I can order the module and find out where it is, but I have been searching and searching for days with no success. It is pretty imperative that I get this fixed as quickly as possible because I got pulled over and the police said that state troopers would take my car if they saw it like that. I appreciate all the help that you can give me in advance.
-Troy
-Troy
I would try replacing the taillight relay, Also while your at it test out the taillight harness to see if it is still good.
#936
I have a 92 Sc400 and the speedometer is of by 20mph (speedometer shows 40 but actually going 60). Any thoughts what could cause this to happen? I searched the forums and some said speed sensors, other say cluster but nothinjg definitive. You have any suggestions?
Car has 84k miles on it BTW if that makes any difference.
Car has 84k miles on it BTW if that makes any difference.
#937
Where did you get the engine from ? Are you sure its a good motor ? Does it crank and rotate over ?
#938
#941
I got a question regarding my 06 GS300 AWD. In my on going efforts to help solve the vibrations/wobbles that us AWD guys get when we lower our cars, I had a set of spacers made (recommended by a reputable tuning shop) and had them installed. They were installed on the end of the axle behind the front wheel bearing. After installing I got a ton of lights on the dash. Check VSC and check 4wd drive on the LCD display and lights on the cluster, brake, abs and flashing AFS light.
Figuring something wasn't installed right, I removed them however all these lights stay on. After disconnecting the battery and checking for codes. Nothing was unplugged so I'm kinda confused. I hooked it up to a snapon computer and I'm getting 3 codes. One for faulty ABS and the other 2 are for each vehicle wheel speed sensor. I'm assuming something happened to the sensor but I don't understand how. I did notice however when putting the drivers side axle back through the hub that a little bit of black plastic chipped off the abs sensor. would this cause the problem for the codes? I have no problem replacing the sensors but I want to make sure that's the problem and will get rid of all the lights before I drop $200 on each sensor. Any help is appreciated.
Figuring something wasn't installed right, I removed them however all these lights stay on. After disconnecting the battery and checking for codes. Nothing was unplugged so I'm kinda confused. I hooked it up to a snapon computer and I'm getting 3 codes. One for faulty ABS and the other 2 are for each vehicle wheel speed sensor. I'm assuming something happened to the sensor but I don't understand how. I did notice however when putting the drivers side axle back through the hub that a little bit of black plastic chipped off the abs sensor. would this cause the problem for the codes? I have no problem replacing the sensors but I want to make sure that's the problem and will get rid of all the lights before I drop $200 on each sensor. Any help is appreciated.
Last edited by IXI187IXI; 04-04-11 at 10:53 AM.
#942
Hey bro my radio went up on me in my 2001 is300 it ate all my new cd's so im getn a cheap indash for now and i was hoping u can help me pick out whitch one to go with..these are the links:
A) http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWAX%3AIT
B) http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...91852706541169
this will be a big help to me...its only temp to i get a good one...for my indash to work what would I need besides a dash kit..?
A) http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWAX%3AIT
B) http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...91852706541169
this will be a big help to me...its only temp to i get a good one...for my indash to work what would I need besides a dash kit..?
Last edited by Derrick42; 04-04-11 at 11:26 PM.
#943
#944
I got a question regarding my 06 GS300 AWD. In my on going efforts to help solve the vibrations/wobbles that us AWD guys get when we lower our cars, I had a set of spacers made (recommended by a reputable tuning shop) and had them installed. They were installed on the end of the axle behind the front wheel bearing. After installing I got a ton of lights on the dash. Check VSC and check 4wd drive on the LCD display and lights on the cluster, brake, abs and flashing AFS light.
Figuring something wasn't installed right, I removed them however all these lights stay on. After disconnecting the battery and checking for codes. Nothing was unplugged so I'm kinda confused. I hooked it up to a snapon computer and I'm getting 3 codes. One for faulty ABS and the other 2 are for each vehicle wheel speed sensor. I'm assuming something happened to the sensor but I don't understand how. I did notice however when putting the drivers side axle back through the hub that a little bit of black plastic chipped off the abs sensor. would this cause the problem for the codes? I have no problem replacing the sensors but I want to make sure that's the problem and will get rid of all the lights before I drop $200 on each sensor. Any help is appreciated.
Figuring something wasn't installed right, I removed them however all these lights stay on. After disconnecting the battery and checking for codes. Nothing was unplugged so I'm kinda confused. I hooked it up to a snapon computer and I'm getting 3 codes. One for faulty ABS and the other 2 are for each vehicle wheel speed sensor. I'm assuming something happened to the sensor but I don't understand how. I did notice however when putting the drivers side axle back through the hub that a little bit of black plastic chipped off the abs sensor. would this cause the problem for the codes? I have no problem replacing the sensors but I want to make sure that's the problem and will get rid of all the lights before I drop $200 on each sensor. Any help is appreciated.
#945
Hey bro my radio went up on me in my 2001 is300 it ate all my new cd's so im getn a cheap indash for now and i was hoping u can help me pick out whitch one to go with..these are the links:
A) http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWAX%3AIT
B) http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...91852706541169
this will be a big help to me...its only temp to i get a good one...for my indash to work what would I need besides a dash kit..?
A) http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWAX%3AIT
B) http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...91852706541169
this will be a big help to me...its only temp to i get a good one...for my indash to work what would I need besides a dash kit..?
Ill be honest with you save your money and get something name brand, These players will be worth more hassle then their worth
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/01-02...#ht_500wt_1182