Member Help thread from a Lexus Certified Technician
07-07-11, 06:45 PM
#991
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I have a 1994 Lexus ES 300 with a transmission issue, and I would like your insight on it. The car has over 161,000 miles. Aside from a few cosmetic flaws, the car is in great shape. I am not the original owner. In fact, I have had the car only two weeks. The issue with the transmission is that it has intermittent overdrive. When I first discovered this, I checked the fluid level in the tranny. It was way over the “hot” mark on the dipstick when cold. I took the car to a local Toyota dealer, as there is no local Lexus dealer in this area. The tech confirmed that it was overfilled, and he drained and refilled it to the correct level with Dexron III. When he road tested it, it shifted fine for him. When I drove the car home from the dealer, it shifted to overdrive and stayed there for the first 15-20 miles. After that, it would shift in and out of OD a few times, and finally just stay in 3rd. I thought that, after checking the Lexus forums, I would just try to reset the ECU by disconnecting the negative battery cable. Initially that seemed to do the trick, but shortly afterward, same problem. As I continued to drive the car for several more days, it would shift to OD occasionally; but it stayed mostly in 3rd. Now here’s where things get weird. A couple of days ago, when I was driving to work, I had my headlights on and the ECT PWR light came on, without even pushing that particular button. This light would go off when I turned off the headlights, but then the CEL would come on and the O/D OFF light would flash once every other second. Turn the headlights back on, then the ECT PWR light comes back on, O/D OFF light goes off. The ECT PWR light also comes on when I turn on the rear defroster. What’s even more weird is that in either of these cases, the tranny will most likely shift to OD if the ECT PWR light is on due to those conditions. I proved this by turning off the headlights and/or rear defroster, and I would see the downshift occur by watching the RPM’s on the tach jump up. Now, having said that, I do not always get OD in either of those two conditions. What I believe, though, is that something electrical/electronic is causing this problem. Something is fishy with the shift logic. Am I correct to suspect a bad ECU? The Lexus forum where you have been posting does have some threads about faulty ECU’s on these models causing a variety of problems, including “no OD” issues. I would appreciate some expert advice. I have tried to be as detailed as possible, since you’re not here to diagnose it. Feel free to ask me any questions, as well. I would be willing to try a few things with the car if you have any ideas.
07-07-11, 06:55 PM
#992
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I have a 2009 IS350 and there's a squeak or noise coming from the center vents. I've heard of this issue from other members but no solution. What can I do to make the annoying noise go away? The other noise is coming from the rear window or the rear shelf area where the sunshade is. The car has been into the dealer 3 times and they still can't fix it. Any help or ideas will be appreciated.
07-07-11, 06:57 PM
#993
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I have a 06 GX 470 and the trac light, MIL keep coming on. It is throwing a P0420 and P0430 Low Catalist Eff Bank 1 and 2. This happened after the alt went out and a new one was installed. I spent 6 hrs working on it yesterday with the Solis Scanner. All o2 sensors are responding correctly, V and MV wise (3.2 to 3.4 volts on pre catalist and .6 to .8 volts on post catalist). Also MAF sensor is within normal range. The only thing that seemed incorrect is the Fuel Trim on post catalist, they are stuck at 99.2%. Im not sure the scanner is communicating fully because of this issue. I replaced one rear o2 sensor and still FT is at 99.2%. I smoked the EVAP system and didnt find any leaks. I have replaced the fuel cap also. Do you have any ideas? Also in the "monitor" section it is showing several processes as "incomplete" or "unable". The light comes on after driving then stoping and shutting off car and restarting and driving again. I have followed the instructions from ALLDATA PRO as best as possible. Any help would be great!!
07-07-11, 06:58 PM
#994
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I have an '06 GS300 AWD and noticed that the outer brake pad on the rear driver side brake is more worn than the rest. i changed the brakes about 500 miles ago so that's why i could tell that the amount of wear was abnormal. could this be a seized brake pin? please help!
07-07-11, 06:59 PM
#995
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Tachmotor, when the weather outside is hot like 95degees+ , my engine temp gauge goes up which looks like it overheating, and pop my hood and the coolant is boiling in the overflow bottle. This only happens when it is super hot outside, if it around 80degrees, it works perfectly fine. Coolant is normal color, not brown or anything different. any ideas?
07-07-11, 07:02 PM
#996
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when you start the car, no check engine there, after driving a while the check engine on. Scanning shows P1346, from there I replaced (Camshaft sensor) no luck to make check engine off, I replaced (ECM, computer) no luck too. checking the timing, seems all good. checking VVT solenoid valve, it was working and clean. mmmmmmm, what to do next? it is really confusing.
Engine is 1G-FE, 6 cylinders, straight
thanks for your help
Engine is 1G-FE, 6 cylinders, straight
thanks for your help
07-07-11, 07:04 PM
#997
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07-09-11, 11:59 AM
#999
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Got this figured out but I'd still like an answer if ya don't mind.
Hey TACH, thanks for the help in the past. I have a question about timing on someone else's 96 LS400. (not on my 93) It's another member but I'm not familiar with the interference motor. Before the T-belt was taken off all three timing marks were lined up. (crank and both cams) Turned it another 50* after TDC. Pulled the belt off, worked on couple other things and the L cam pulley (drivers side) accidentally got turned a little bit, maybe another 10* clockwise. The crank and R cam are still where they were before the belt came off, 50* ATDC.
Question is; should he spin the L cam counter clockwise back to where the timing mark is supposed to be? Or should it be turned clockwise to get to the timing mark? B/c it already spun 10*, if he goes clockwise it will go another 350* to make one full turn, (360*) on the L cam only. Would that cause damage? Remember, the crank is still at 50*ATDC. He doesn't want to hurt anything with it being an interference motor. Now, he tried going counter clockwise and says there is resistence, I don't know how much resistence like if it's solid or like the spring is compressing. He's getting different answers so I figured I would help him out more and ask an actual Lexus tech. I appreciate whatever answer, thanks.
Hey TACH, thanks for the help in the past. I have a question about timing on someone else's 96 LS400. (not on my 93) It's another member but I'm not familiar with the interference motor. Before the T-belt was taken off all three timing marks were lined up. (crank and both cams) Turned it another 50* after TDC. Pulled the belt off, worked on couple other things and the L cam pulley (drivers side) accidentally got turned a little bit, maybe another 10* clockwise. The crank and R cam are still where they were before the belt came off, 50* ATDC.
Question is; should he spin the L cam counter clockwise back to where the timing mark is supposed to be? Or should it be turned clockwise to get to the timing mark? B/c it already spun 10*, if he goes clockwise it will go another 350* to make one full turn, (360*) on the L cam only. Would that cause damage? Remember, the crank is still at 50*ATDC. He doesn't want to hurt anything with it being an interference motor. Now, he tried going counter clockwise and says there is resistence, I don't know how much resistence like if it's solid or like the spring is compressing. He's getting different answers so I figured I would help him out more and ask an actual Lexus tech. I appreciate whatever answer, thanks.
Last edited by deanshark; 07-19-11 at 04:34 AM.
07-13-11, 12:11 PM
#1000
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Question about immobilizer
'99 LS400, 55,000 miles. When I insert the key (master key? black plastic fob with three buttons - trunk button not functioning, by the way) The security light flashes and the car won't recognize the key...for over a minute sometimes. I can turn the starter, but it won't fire up. But after a time, I hear an audible click, the check light engine comes on, the security light quits flashing, the tach needle jumps to life, and the "P" lights up. Then it starts, every time.
Also, I have a copied key, from Ace Hardware, that will open the door, and will eventually cause the security light to stop flashing, but usually doesn't start the car.
Any thoughts?
Also, I have a copied key, from Ace Hardware, that will open the door, and will eventually cause the security light to stop flashing, but usually doesn't start the car.
Any thoughts?
07-13-11, 12:30 PM
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my IS200 wont start there is spark on the plugs,the throttle body is fine the timing is fine we tried to check the fault codes. the machine picks up no fault codes.the engine turns well when cranking ,it it sounds like it will start but never picks up.it is automatic 1999 model.also the immobiliser does go off when starting.Where else can we check for faults
07-19-11, 04:35 PM
#1005
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