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Old 01-23-10, 09:18 AM
  #121  
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Awesome!! glad you got it resolved. Thanks for the update
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Old 01-23-10, 03:19 PM
  #122  
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Default 93 GS300 Valve body gaskets...

Hi I hope you can help me. My car sat for about 10 months due to electrical problem (ended up being the alt fuse). Well I fixed that but when I started it up to go for a drive the trans wouldn't engage. Everything is acting fine (as far as the motor response in preparation for engagement, rpm's rise and fall like they are supposed to) tried a different ecu and still no change. I thought it might be the solenoid valves just stuck or gone out. Someone recommended removing the valve body and making sure it was clear of debris and that the solenoid valves may be working just fine the paths are just blocked with sludge. Well, of course the gaskets get screwed when you remove it and I have not been able to find the gaskets for the valve body except from a transmission rebuild kit from the dealer for 300 bucks. Is there any way to get these gaskets ala carte? I probably need to replace the solenoid valves anyway but that's already going to cost 200 bones for #'s 1-3. Any help is greatly appreciated.

Maximum Respect,
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Old 01-23-10, 03:44 PM
  #123  
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You could always use gasket maker which is a fluid type substance. Toyota/Lexus use that on the oil-pans. If you dont know which one to use I can get you a pn#.
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Old 01-23-10, 04:11 PM
  #124  
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Originally Posted by TACH_MOTOR
You could always use gasket maker which is a fluid type substance. Toyota/Lexus use that on the oil-pans. If you dont know which one to use I can get you a pn#.
Really? I didn't think that would work since there are such tight tolerances and such small holes in the valve body plate that is sandwiched between both valve body halves. I suppose a micro bead would keep the gasket maker from oozing out into the valve body channels. A part# would be great or a product equivalent (of course I suppose "gasket maker" would be a product equivalent). Thanks so much for your help, I've had little to no response in the 1st gen forums. But just to be sure, you are aware I am INSIDE the valve body right?

Maximum Respect! You're awesome bro!
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Old 01-23-10, 04:18 PM
  #125  
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Sorry I misunderstood your question. If you are already in the valve body area you need the o.e gasket kit. The gasket maker is for the outer pan that attaches to the transmission. Sorry man there is no other way around it.
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Old 01-23-10, 04:42 PM
  #126  
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Okay, that's what I was afraid of. But still, $500 plus my own sweat and blood is better than what a trans shop or the dealership (no offense ) would charge me. I really appreciate your input and I hope you have a stellar year!

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Old 01-24-10, 11:15 AM
  #127  
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This is why CL's NELOC section is the bomb-diggity.

I have a 2001 GS430, with a torque converter and larger radiator.

My issue is my internal HVAC blower fan inside the car. The blower fan often doesn't work until the car is warmed up and/or moving at highway speeds. And it's not consistent. Some days, I can hop in the cold car, and the fan works as soon as the car starts (even though it's blowing cold air since the car hasn't warmed up yet). And then other days, the heater fan won't come on at all (even after the car warms up) until I drive at highway speeds. Specifically, if I'm in the city, and the fan doesn't work immediately, there's times that it won't ever come on (even once the car warms up) if I never get up to about 60 mph.

And everything I said above also applies to when it's summertime and I need air conditioning. About half the time, the A/C fan won't come on until the car is driving at highway speeds.

Interesting enough, once the fan starts working, it works fine for that particular trip. But I could turn the car off and then immediately restart it, and the problem resets itself, and then the whole issue starts over again....I get no blower fan until the car is up to highway speed.

Now, SOMEtimes, it doesn't take highway speeds for the fan to work, sometimes the car just needs to warm up for a while and then it will magically turn on.....but oftentimes, it takes highway speeds for the fan to turn on and start blowing air. The solution is totally random. But I have gone on long 40-50 mile trips and the fan never turns on (even at highway speed), though this is rare.

And usually, this issue happens more in colder temperatures (below freezing), and warmer temperatures (above 90 degrees).

What's the problem? The fan seems to work fine once it's on, so is there a malfunctioning sensor or something?
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Old 01-24-10, 12:36 PM
  #128  
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Originally Posted by TACH_MOTOR
Sorry I misunderstood your question. If you are already in the valve body area you need the o.e gasket kit. The gasket maker is for the outer pan that attaches to the transmission. Sorry man there is no other way around it.
Can I use brake cleaner to clean out all the valve channels? I wouldn't see why not. I have all the ***** out and mapped appropriately. Just want to make this thing look new and remove all the old particles.
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Old 01-24-10, 12:54 PM
  #129  
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^ Yes sir you can use some brake clean, and use some RTV sealer to seal the trans pan.
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Old 01-24-10, 01:39 PM
  #130  
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Originally Posted by quickGS300
^ Yes sir you can use some brake clean, and use some RTV sealer to seal the trans pan.
QuickGS is correct. You can use brake clean to clean out the valve bodies and check *****. And use RTV sealer. You can always go to the lexus dealer and get o.e sealer which is called FIPG
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Old 01-24-10, 01:44 PM
  #131  
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Originally Posted by KevinGS
This is why CL's NELOC section is the bomb-diggity.

I have a 2001 GS430, with a torque converter and larger radiator.

My issue is my internal HVAC blower fan inside the car. The blower fan often doesn't work until the car is warmed up and/or moving at highway speeds. And it's not consistent. Some days, I can hop in the cold car, and the fan works as soon as the car starts (even though it's blowing cold air since the car hasn't warmed up yet). And then other days, the heater fan won't come on at all (even after the car warms up) until I drive at highway speeds. Specifically, if I'm in the city, and the fan doesn't work immediately, there's times that it won't ever come on (even once the car warms up) if I never get up to about 60 mph.

And everything I said above also applies to when it's summertime and I need air conditioning. About half the time, the A/C fan won't come on until the car is driving at highway speeds.

Interesting enough, once the fan starts working, it works fine for that particular trip. But I could turn the car off and then immediately restart it, and the problem resets itself, and then the whole issue starts over again....I get no blower fan until the car is up to highway speed.

Now, SOMEtimes, it doesn't take highway speeds for the fan to work, sometimes the car just needs to warm up for a while and then it will magically turn on.....but oftentimes, it takes highway speeds for the fan to turn on and start blowing air. The solution is totally random. But I have gone on long 40-50 mile trips and the fan never turns on (even at highway speed), though this is rare.

And usually, this issue happens more in colder temperatures (below freezing), and warmer temperatures (above 90 degrees).

What's the problem? The fan seems to work fine once it's on, so is there a malfunctioning sensor or something?
Kevin,

Your problem may be beyond what I can do over the forum. I suggest taking apart your glove box or someone mechanically inclined if you are not. Just check out the connections to the blower motor. Check out all the connections between the radiator and fans to make sure no wires are clipped or pinched. You may need a new blower assembly. As for your A/C not working at times I would turn the a/c on and off and make sure the compressor clutch is engaging. I apologize I cant be more helpful in this situation. Please keep me posted and if you have any follow up questions please don't hesitate to ask. Thanks
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Old 01-24-10, 05:32 PM
  #132  
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Originally Posted by TACH_MOTOR
Kevin,

Your problem may be beyond what I can do over the forum. I suggest taking apart your glove box or someone mechanically inclined if you are not. Just check out the connections to the blower motor. Check out all the connections between the radiator and fans to make sure no wires are clipped or pinched. You may need a new blower assembly. As for your A/C not working at times I would turn the a/c on and off and make sure the compressor clutch is engaging. I apologize I cant be more helpful in this situation. Please keep me posted and if you have any follow up questions please don't hesitate to ask. Thanks
Figures I'd have a more 'complex' problem. lol

I can get in the glovebox myself and check the connections.

The a/c itself works fine when the fan blower works. I don't ever a/c issues when the fan is actually on. It's all blower fan-related issues.

My hunch is that it's probably a bad blower assembly, which I know Lexus is going to rake me over the coals for....

But thanks for your input. I'll let you know what I find. It's been happening for a while, and since it's intermitten, with the fan almost always eventually coming on, it's never been an urgent issue. More annoying than anything. But on a real hot or a real cold day, it sucks to not have a/c or heat for even 10 to 15 minutes.
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Old 01-25-10, 04:27 AM
  #133  
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I know how it can be. Especially with the weather we've been having these days.
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Old 01-27-10, 01:08 PM
  #134  
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Originally Posted by TACH_MOTOR
I am posting this as a Technical help thread for NELOC Lexus owners. I am in no way advertising a business or soliciting work. I am only on here to offering to help diagnose problems you may be having with your Lexus vehicles to get a jump on your repairs.

You can post your questions and/or info on your vehicles and I'll reply to them here!

Hi,
Whenever I disconnect and reconnect the battery, I have a high idle speed (2,000 RPM) even when the enigine is hot after driving around for a while. I have to turn the engine off and on many times before the idle speed goes back down to normal. Is there something else I need to do whenever I reconnect the battery, besides resetting the windows. Instructions to reset the windows was the only thing I found in the owners manual.
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Old 01-27-10, 01:13 PM
  #135  
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You must always disconnect the Negative terminal first followed by the Positive terminal if you are ever storing your vehicle and/or changing the battery. When re-connecting Positive terminal first then Negative. The reason for your idle hunt is the ecm is recalibrating itself. This is a normal function.

Ofcourse do not leave any power on when disconnecting the battery. You can short something out or cause damage to electrical components.
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