Molding TTE spoiler to bumper
04-01-05, 12:33 PM
#1
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Molding TTE spoiler to bumper
Just curious to know if anyone had the TTE front lip spoiler molded to the bumper done in the Bay Area. Brought the car for an estimate, they were saying that it needs some screws to hold it in place, covered the screws and paint it. The spoiler is already painted though.
Anyone?
Thank much.
Bill.
Anyone?
Thank much.
Bill.
04-01-05, 02:06 PM
#2
The TTE lip is held on with screws and adhesive. Getting it molded on is doable. This basically means that all the seams are filled and painted so that it looks like it is part of the bumper. The caveat is that if you bang the bumper (scraping, hitting, ...) enough so that it cracks the seams, the paint will crack too. Although it may never happen, it is a possibility that you will need to be ready for.
04-01-05, 05:02 PM
#3
Synergy molded on his TTE lip. His is holding up actually quite well and I don't believe it will crack very easy since the glue is flexible as well.
The key is to use the same adhesive used to repair the plastic bumpers. Any reputable body shop should be able to figure this out.
Several of us NorCal locals have a paint guy that we trust to work on our cars. He does this on the side, so we can't really advertise him as if he has a store front. He does do his work in a warehouse garage that has a paint booth available. He has done painting for me, Synergy, redgs4, Solo, Jawnthen and others.
You really want a painter who does body kits , etc, cause the regular paint shops aren't used to fitting and tweeking the parts to fit and parts that require gluing, etc. They are so used to painting OEM parts that fit like a glove and just bolt on. Trying to paint an aftermarket bodykit before even test fitting it is not a good thing. Any body shop that doesn't know better is one to stay away from.
As I said, the guy does this on the side from his regular day time painting job. All his referrals are by word of mouth. If you want good work, can accomodate his part time availability schedule and can pay cash, our painter may be for you.
He is completely re-painting one of my other vehicles right now. I'll post pics of that job when it's done.
PM me for more info if you're interested.
The key is to use the same adhesive used to repair the plastic bumpers. Any reputable body shop should be able to figure this out.
Several of us NorCal locals have a paint guy that we trust to work on our cars. He does this on the side, so we can't really advertise him as if he has a store front. He does do his work in a warehouse garage that has a paint booth available. He has done painting for me, Synergy, redgs4, Solo, Jawnthen and others.
You really want a painter who does body kits , etc, cause the regular paint shops aren't used to fitting and tweeking the parts to fit and parts that require gluing, etc. They are so used to painting OEM parts that fit like a glove and just bolt on. Trying to paint an aftermarket bodykit before even test fitting it is not a good thing. Any body shop that doesn't know better is one to stay away from.
As I said, the guy does this on the side from his regular day time painting job. All his referrals are by word of mouth. If you want good work, can accomodate his part time availability schedule and can pay cash, our painter may be for you.
He is completely re-painting one of my other vehicles right now. I'll post pics of that job when it's done.
PM me for more info if you're interested.
Last edited by RMMGS4; 04-01-05 at 05:05 PM.
04-01-05, 06:51 PM
#5
Originally Posted by rominl
imho if you are molding it, might as well put on couple more screws to make it stronger
The screws are good for holding the spoiler in place while the glue sets. After it hardens, you can actually take out the screws and fill the holes in. If you use polyurethane glue all the way around, I think it might be OK without screws. That stuff is damn strong when it dries.
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04-03-05, 11:47 PM
#8
Originally Posted by RMMGS4
I can't remember if Synergy used the screws, but they are not visible so it could of been covered up.
The screws are good for holding the spoiler in place while the glue sets. After it hardens, you can actually take out the screws and fill the holes in. If you use polyurethane glue all the way around, I think it might be OK without screws. That stuff is damn strong when it dries.
The screws are good for holding the spoiler in place while the glue sets. After it hardens, you can actually take out the screws and fill the holes in. If you use polyurethane glue all the way around, I think it might be OK without screws. That stuff is damn strong when it dries.
04-03-05, 11:59 PM
#9
Originally Posted by rominl
well, but why take out the screws then? they won't make it weaker, might as well keep them there?
04-04-05, 02:13 AM
#10
Originally Posted by RMMGS4
The screw heads stick out. If you remove them, you can fill the hole and have no sign that they were ever there. Looks cleaner if you dont see screws. If you counter sink the screws into the lip, you can putty over the top, but then there's a chance that there will be round hairline cracks chance over time. The dis-similar metal screw and poly lip sometimes don't get along.
04-04-05, 10:55 AM
#11
Originally Posted by rominl
oic what you are sayingm you are talking about putting screws on the surface huh? i was thinking about putting screws at the bottom of the lip screwing them upward.
So yeah, if they go from underneath, like you said, no sense in taking them out.
04-04-05, 11:15 AM
#12
Originally Posted by RMMGS4
I saw screws in the front that someone posted a while ago, but now that you mention it, they might have added those themselves.
So yeah, if they go from underneath, like you said, no sense in taking them out.
So yeah, if they go from underneath, like you said, no sense in taking them out.
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