How to Change the back Door Tweeter Speaker?
#1
How to Change the back Door Tweeter Speaker?
I bought a set of 3 ways speakers and changed the dash and front door speakers years ago. I still have the Tweeter speakers and may as well change them. I though it will be the same as the dash speakers but not.
Seem like its a single channel for the tweeter and the lower woofer speakers. When i disconnect the tweeter the woofer also loose power.
Anyone know how I can connect the 2 wires tweeter from the 4 wires? Or can be done like the dash speakers by just cutting 2 wire for the tweeter?
thanks
Seem like its a single channel for the tweeter and the lower woofer speakers. When i disconnect the tweeter the woofer also loose power.
Anyone know how I can connect the 2 wires tweeter from the 4 wires? Or can be done like the dash speakers by just cutting 2 wire for the tweeter?
thanks
#2
For the left door, connect red to blue and white to green. Then connect your new tweeter (with blocking / crossover capacitor) between red (+) and white (-).
For the right door connect red to yellow and white to black. Then connect your new tweeter (with blocking / crossover capacitor) between red (+) and white (-).
The factory woofer-to-tweeter connections are made within the tweeters.
For the right door connect red to yellow and white to black. Then connect your new tweeter (with blocking / crossover capacitor) between red (+) and white (-).
The factory woofer-to-tweeter connections are made within the tweeters.
#3
Thank you very much...
by connecting to a crossover is something like this I need?
by connecting to a crossover is something like this I need?
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Sn0ball (07-10-24)
#4
Those are a big overkill for your application. Something like this should be adequate:
The value of capacitance depends on your preference for crossover frequency and the impedance of your new tweeters. Foe a cone tweeter, I generally prefer about 2500 to 3000Hz, and for a ribbon or electrostatic tweeter, about 4000Hz.
In the chart below, F is the crossover frequency in Hz, Xc is the speaker impedance in Ohms, and C is the capacitor value in MicroFarads (sometimes labeled "uF" or "mF"). Just select the closest standard value available. A higher value lowers the crossover frequency, and vice-versa. You will need to purchase 2 identical capacitors, as they are not usually sold in pairs.
I modified the connection drawing to (hopefully) be more informative. The red "+" is the positive terminal of your tweeters. Non-polarized capacitors can be connected either way.
The value of capacitance depends on your preference for crossover frequency and the impedance of your new tweeters. Foe a cone tweeter, I generally prefer about 2500 to 3000Hz, and for a ribbon or electrostatic tweeter, about 4000Hz.
In the chart below, F is the crossover frequency in Hz, Xc is the speaker impedance in Ohms, and C is the capacitor value in MicroFarads (sometimes labeled "uF" or "mF"). Just select the closest standard value available. A higher value lowers the crossover frequency, and vice-versa. You will need to purchase 2 identical capacitors, as they are not usually sold in pairs.
I modified the connection drawing to (hopefully) be more informative. The red "+" is the positive terminal of your tweeters. Non-polarized capacitors can be connected either way.
#5
To see other capacitor options, type "non-polarized crossover capacitor" into the Amazon search box. There is no huge benefit to paying a higher price. Don't be concerned about voltage rating. Car audio systems rarely apply more than 50 Volts to the speaker wires, and most apply less than 20 Volts, even at maximum volume..
#6
my speakers are
4-ohm impedance
handles up to 75 watts RMS (225 watts peak)
frequency response: 48-25,000 Hz
sensitivity: 89.5 dB
According to your chart this capacitor "Nichicon FG Capacitors 100V 10uf Audio Grade" will do 4000Hz, 4 Ohms, 10uf? This will match my speaker the best?
4-ohm impedance
handles up to 75 watts RMS (225 watts peak)
frequency response: 48-25,000 Hz
sensitivity: 89.5 dB
According to your chart this capacitor "Nichicon FG Capacitors 100V 10uf Audio Grade" will do 4000Hz, 4 Ohms, 10uf? This will match my speaker the best?
#7
You have to be careful when searching for a product at Amazon. The linked capacitors are sourced by a 3rd party seller and are actually polarized type. Nowhere in the description is written "non-polarized", and the images clearly show a black stripe to designate the Negative wire. The term "audio grade" is just marketing hype and means nothing. Polarized crossover capacitors can (and usually will) distort the sound reproduced by the tweeters.
It appears your tweeters were part of a component set consisting of a mid-range (5" to 6.5" cone) and separate tweeter, which you plan to re-purpose in place of the OEM rear door tweeters. These components sets typically include the crossover capacitors (sometimes mounted inside the tweeter housing). Can you post a link to a description the speakers you purchased? The 48Hz to 25,000Hz frequency range refers to the combo, not just the tweeter alone. Tweeter response usually has a frequency range that begins no lower than 1000Hz.
Do you have a meter that will measure resistance? A 4Ohm speaker that does not have an internal crossover capacitor will measure in the range of 3 Ohms to 5 Ohms. If there is an internal capacitor, the meter will briefly read a low resistance, but then rise and settle near infinity (open circuit) once the capacitor has charged.
It appears your tweeters were part of a component set consisting of a mid-range (5" to 6.5" cone) and separate tweeter, which you plan to re-purpose in place of the OEM rear door tweeters. These components sets typically include the crossover capacitors (sometimes mounted inside the tweeter housing). Can you post a link to a description the speakers you purchased? The 48Hz to 25,000Hz frequency range refers to the combo, not just the tweeter alone. Tweeter response usually has a frequency range that begins no lower than 1000Hz.
Do you have a meter that will measure resistance? A 4Ohm speaker that does not have an internal crossover capacitor will measure in the range of 3 Ohms to 5 Ohms. If there is an internal capacitor, the meter will briefly read a low resistance, but then rise and settle near infinity (open circuit) once the capacitor has charged.
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#8
This is the JL Audio Tweeters I have. The fullset model I have C5-653.
Yes, it came with a 3-ways crossover.
Yes, I figure those are not non-polarized. I end up order from Aliexpress.
Aliexpress
I don't have any meter.
Yes, it came with a 3-ways crossover.
Yes, I figure those are not non-polarized. I end up order from Aliexpress.
Aliexpress
I don't have any meter.
#9
Nice tweeters. Should provide a noticeable improvement over the OEM ones.
According to the specifications, these tweeters are 8Ω impedance rather than 4Ω, so 10uF capacitors would be larger than ideal.
If you have the crossovers (which they call In-line High Pass Filters) listed on the specification page, they are 2 stage and will perform better than a single capacitor. The attached drawing shows how to connect them. Gray wires are +, black wires are negative.
According to the specifications, these tweeters are 8Ω impedance rather than 4Ω, so 10uF capacitors would be larger than ideal.
If you have the crossovers (which they call In-line High Pass Filters) listed on the specification page, they are 2 stage and will perform better than a single capacitor. The attached drawing shows how to connect them. Gray wires are +, black wires are negative.
#11
Interesting . . . your crossovers are different from the ones shown in the Tweeter specification.
Not a problem, you will just have another option to consider.
The wiring arrangement in your photo will suppress the mid-range frequencies. This might be desirable if you are the type of individual who prefers to set an equalizer to emphasize the low bass sounds and high treble sounds. However, if your listening preference is vocals, and you like an illusion the artist is there in the car with you, than the following connection arrangement will suit you better:
Remove the red and black wires from the "W+" and "W-" crossover terminals and connect them instead to the "IN+" and "IN-" terminals. The Blue / Red and Green / White wires remain connected there as well.
Not a problem, you will just have another option to consider.
The wiring arrangement in your photo will suppress the mid-range frequencies. This might be desirable if you are the type of individual who prefers to set an equalizer to emphasize the low bass sounds and high treble sounds. However, if your listening preference is vocals, and you like an illusion the artist is there in the car with you, than the following connection arrangement will suit you better:
Remove the red and black wires from the "W+" and "W-" crossover terminals and connect them instead to the "IN+" and "IN-" terminals. The Blue / Red and Green / White wires remain connected there as well.
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End1ess (05-14-23)
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