NX - 1st Gen (2015-2021)

2016 Lexus NX200 2.0L cranks but doesn’t start? Fuel pump?

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Old 04-03-24, 08:03 AM
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Lexura16
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A P0117 DTC code indicates a low resistance reading from the sensor which translates to a higher than normal coolant & engine temps ( overheating situation). remove and check sensor resistance with multimeter. I do not know Toyota's specs ( 2000 - 3000 Ohms is good from other car mfgs ).
If sensor was bad, it'll not turn on fan for coolant radiator and that may have caused the engine to overheat. It also may prevent subsequent engine starts ( with ECM collaboration). If sensor checks out good, check thermostat to ensure its not stuck in closed position which will result in an overheating condition as well. I suspect that water pump failure diagnosis may not be the case here ( unless pump impeller shaft bushing was worn and coolant running out of weep hole or pump gasket failure, both cases MT'ing the cooling system ).
If you decide on an engine swap (BTW, also my personal choice ) a couple of things to look out for. 1. A fresh/very recent engine oil appearance is a red flag ( seller trying to hide internal engine problems i.e. small coolant leak into cylinder oil passages resulting in milky looking engine oil). 2. thorough external examination of head gasket joint for evidence of dried coolant ( pink crystals ).

Old 04-03-24, 08:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Lexura16
A P0117 DTC code indicates a low resistance reading from the sensor which translates to a higher than normal coolant & engine temps ( overheating situation). remove and check sensor resistance with multimeter. I do not know Toyota's specs ( 2000 - 3000 Ohms is good from other car mfgs ).
If sensor was bad, it'll not turn on fan for coolant radiator and that may have caused the engine to overheat. It also may prevent subsequent engine starts ( with ECM collaboration). If sensor checks out good, check thermostat to ensure its not stuck in closed position which will result in an overheating condition as well. I suspect that water pump failure diagnosis may not be the case here ( unless pump impeller shaft bushing was worn and coolant running out of weep hole or pump gasket failure, both cases MT'ing the cooling system ).
If you decide on an engine swap (BTW, also my personal choice ) a couple of things to look out for. 1. A fresh/very recent engine oil appearance is a red flag ( seller trying to hide internal engine problems i.e. small coolant leak into cylinder oil passages resulting in milky looking engine oil). 2. thorough external examination of head gasket joint for evidence of dried coolant ( pink crystals ).
Thermostat being stuck closed wouldn’t cause a leak but I can see it as the cause for starving the engine. Coolant reservoir was also bubbling

it was definitely the water pump. It was literally loose and shaking for weeks and they did not fix it…Leak is right on the seems of the turbo and in really thinking about taking that gamble because turbo is $300….
Old 04-03-24, 11:31 AM
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Lexura16
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A new turbocharger is north of $2000.00, and if you are confident that your unit is toast, first, find root cause for its failure before throwing in a replacement unit, either used or new.
Specifically check for obstructions in coolant and oil lines to and out of unit cos if flow of these two fluids are compromised they will spell a quick death to the replacement unit.
Just for giggles, what do you get from dealership for $11K. ?
Old 04-03-24, 12:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Lexura16
A new turbocharger is north of $2000.00, and if you are confident that your unit is toast, first, find root cause for its failure before throwing in a replacement unit, either used or new.
Specifically check for obstructions in coolant and oil lines to and out of unit cos if flow of these two fluids are compromised they will spell a quick death to the replacement unit.
Just for giggles, what do you get from dealership for $11K. ?
I don’t work on Lexus cars so my knowledge is limited. Had a Lexus mechanic come and his diagnosis was turbo being starved and no oil coolant was getting to it and caused a crack in the turbo which was why it was spraying coolant and no compression causing the crank no start

For 11k I’m getting a new engine and that’s it…no other repairs would be done. This car is worth less than that. I’m going to get a used one for 2k and have it installed.
Old 04-19-24, 03:47 PM
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All's well and ends well ? An update pls, thanks.
Old 05-03-24, 03:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Lexura16
All's well and ends well ? An update pls, thanks.
UPDATE:

Replaced engine with one that had 50k miles, new belt, water pump, coolant changed. Cost was $4,000
Old 05-03-24, 04:05 PM
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Engine barely broken in at 50k. You luck out with this one. Happy motoring and thanks for the update.
Old 05-03-24, 04:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Lexura16
Engine barely broken in at 50k. You luck out with this one. Happy motoring and thanks for the update.
All else said, I agree…mechanic did a good job finding an engine with low miles and only charged $1000 for labor. He even showed me the engine and there were LOTS of metal shavings in the pistons and engine the thermostat. My son still refuses to believe he overheated the engine…go figure with kids these days haha

Found my new mechanic(rare in my part of town)
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