Thearc

I changed the water pump and now I’m facing another issue with car not starting. Cranks for 5 seconds than cuts out. I noticed a leak at the front below the engine that looks like clear liquid(not oil). Dripping a lot

I’m narrowing it down to coolant lead, fuel pump or starter.

kkid

Starter sounds healthy, I would check that your battery is healthy as well. Then move on to checking fuel, spray starter fluid in your intake manifold, if it starts and dies then you're not getting fuel. Lastly check for spark, change your plugs and if that doesn't work change your ignition coils.

Thearc

The biggest thing standing out is the leak which is probably why it’s not starting. Didn’t smell like gas but it was clear. The leak is coming form the bottom of the engine but the injectors are on top of the engine

kkid

That fluid can only be water (from ac condensation), coolant, brake fluid or windshield washer fluid if it didn't smell like gasoline. None of those things can prevent your car from starting. Is the car not throwing any codes?

Thearc

I found two 11mm bolts just now…I do smell coolant when it tries to start but no leak near the new water pump…both reservoirs are full. No codes I could find. Wonder what size bolts the water pump uses

LexMan2003

You started the post with "I changed the water pump and now I’m facing another issue with car not starting."

A few questions:

1. AFTER you changed the water pump, has the car started since? How much time elapsed between the completion of the change of the water pump and the very next attempt to start? From the wording, it sounds like you changed the water pump and immediately thereafter the car did not start. Am I reading it correctly?

2. Have you recently run your tank down to almost the bottom whereby the "low fuel" light came on? If so, how much more did you drive it (on the reserve) before you put gas in. I'm thinking it is possible that you might have one/more clogged injectors due to sediment that was pulled into your engine because you ran the tank down so low.

IF you couldn't start the car on the next try immediately after the water pump change, then it's possible that perhaps a WIRE somehow got knocked out of place or loosened (or not retightened).

Thearc

apologize for sounding confusing. Brought the car home after the water pump failed. Car didn’t start once I turned it off. Coolant was everywhere and changed the water pump. Car still did not start afterwards. There was fuel in the tank and wasn’t run dry

AMTMJ

Do you have any stored engine codes? As for the leak, look closely around the water pump you just replaced. There’s always the chance the o-ring on the pump wasn’t seated properly during install.

Thearc

UPDATE: There was a hole in the turbo and was leaking coolant…so there was no compression

Lexura16

@Thearc From your comments, I gather that due to a failed water pump, the coolant boiled over ( your quote "... coolant everywhere " ) while you were driving. Did engine temp gauge showed an overheat situation ?
If you were operating engine with major loss of coolant, you may have done some damage to engine ( warped heads come to mind ) and turbo ( .... hole in turbo body ) , perhaps even sensors that can prevent an engine start. This is worse case scenario and I hope I'm wrong on all counts. Good luck.
BTW my understanding of turbos are they force air into the intake to condense it for a better burn of the air/fuel mixture when they are spool right up in much higher rpms. They are a non factor for engine starts as they are not spinning fast enough to add any compression of the air for ignition.
Have you found out the source of the 2 x 11mm bolts ?
An update would be much appreciated.

Thearc

does the turbo use coolant or oil? It’s spitting coolant right at the turbo seals. Haven’t found where the bolts came from. What could cause no compression with leaking coolant?

Lexura16

Turbo unit is cooled by coolant . Turbo's bearings are lubricated by the oil from the singular system that pumps oil to lubricate engine as well.
Check the two bolts' condition i.e. were the ends looked like they had sheared off or they looked whole and had worked themselves loose ( from the turbo ? ).
Do you have a compression tester to check for compression on all 4 cylinders ? This will give you a clue as to why engine will not start if compression numbers are very low.
At a minimum, remove all spark plugs and checked electrode condition. You'll be looking for signs of gas ( good after cranking & a non start ), coolant ( bad ).

Also pull dipstick to check engine oil level. A higher level than normal can indicate coolant incursion. Milky color oil is a sign of coolant mixed with engine oil.

From your comments of coolant leaks from bottom of engine ( i.e. between head and engine block thro' blown head gasket ? ) , leaks from turbo seals and subsequent non engine start. All this coming off a water pump failure and presumably ( my assumption ) leading to an overheating situation, I'll have to conclude that some serious damage had occurred to the two components , engine and turbo, that were serviced by the water pump. Again, hopefully I'm out in left field on this . Good luck.

n0v8or

The NX turbo and intercooler are cooled by a separate independent cooling system. Engine coolant and turbo coolant do not intermix. The turbo/intercooler cooling system has its own radiator and (small electric) water pump. When I remove the plastic cover over the radiator(s), which takes less than a minute to do, I can see 3 different finned "radiators", Beginning at the front grille, just behind the horns is the air conditioner condenser, which is only ~1/4 inch thick. Mounted behind the condenser is the turbo coolant radiator, and behind that, is the engine coolant radiator.

I am not sure if a catastrophic failure of the engine cooling system could conceivably progress to a turbo failure.

Thearc

well my guess was when the water pump went out, my kids drove it for couple of mins which may have starve the turbo but now that you said the turbo has its own coolant system that ends my theory.

I have not found any manual or guide on replacing the turbo anywhere. It’s location seems easy to get to

Lexura16

@Thearc You need to determine if the engine is still serviceable or not. If serious damage had occurred, you'll be looking to replace/remove the engine which will make trouble shooting/replacing the turbo much easier. My bad for forgetting that the NX has separate cooling systems as nOv8or had pointed out in his post.
As you had observed, the turbo's seal(s) was(were) leaking coolant. Also coolant was leaking from hole in turbo. Hole and seal(s) are one and the same ?
Regardless, the turbo is compromised. However, the priority is still to determine engine health and then go from there.