Rear LED turn signal upgrade
#31
Racer
Where to put resistor?
So, this weekend, I removed my taillight assembly in an attempt to replace the turn signals with LED bulbs. I have the proper bulb and a set of resistors to deal with hyper-flashing. I tell you, I'm an expert now at removing those assemblies. Thanks to the manual and the folks on this thread that explain out it's done, it worked. (I totally recommend masking around the whole assembly before beginning!) [see pics below]
Anyway, I didn't install the new LEDs because I was unsure of where I could put the resistors. There isn't a lot of room inside the assembly to put them. My resistors are a couple of inches (or more long). They are the ceramic type.
What resistors are you guys using? Where are you putting them and how are you securing them to avoid rattling, etc? Also, is there a combo LED bulb and resistor unit?
Rear perspective of the masking around taillight assembly before removal to install LED turn signal bulbs.
Rear perspective of the masking around taillight assembly with bolt cover removed before removal to install LED turn signal bulbs.
Side-quarter perspective of the masking around taillight assembly before removal to install LED turn signal bulbs.
Anyway, I didn't install the new LEDs because I was unsure of where I could put the resistors. There isn't a lot of room inside the assembly to put them. My resistors are a couple of inches (or more long). They are the ceramic type.
What resistors are you guys using? Where are you putting them and how are you securing them to avoid rattling, etc? Also, is there a combo LED bulb and resistor unit?
Rear perspective of the masking around taillight assembly before removal to install LED turn signal bulbs.
Rear perspective of the masking around taillight assembly with bolt cover removed before removal to install LED turn signal bulbs.
Side-quarter perspective of the masking around taillight assembly before removal to install LED turn signal bulbs.
#34
Racer
By the way, while removing the assembly looks intimidating, it's really not difficult at all. I can now remove one in less than five minutes.
#36
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Okay, now that I finally had my NX for a week, I can start modding it You can see in the "Upgrade cargo lights with LED's" thread that I have replaced all my other lights with LEDs and the rear turn signals are the last ones.
The OP of this thread has gone, I have messaged him about his lights to see how they are going, but he hasn't responded. He said his bulbs didn't require resistors, which would be the perfect solution if it was true.
Anyway I am going to try this mod out myself.
For bulbs, I have found these really nice Philips ones. The beam pattern and brightness matches the filament ones. Problem is they are very expensive at $100 a pair.
You can take a look at them here:
http://www.philips.com.au/c-p/12763X...-lamp/overview
I might go and try some cheaper eBay ones first.
As for the resistors, I actually have used "LED decoders" in my previous car. These are plug and play resistors that don't require splicing any wires or the resistor getting hot as they are enclosed in a heat shrink. Problem would be finding space. You can take a look here:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2x-T20-74...kAAOSwstxVKMW6
I haven't opened the tail light assembly, so I have no idea how much space I am working with. If I have time tomorrow, I will go and open it up and see what I'm dealing with.
Can anyone here confirm the bulb size is a 7440/T20 bulb?
The OP of this thread has gone, I have messaged him about his lights to see how they are going, but he hasn't responded. He said his bulbs didn't require resistors, which would be the perfect solution if it was true.
Anyway I am going to try this mod out myself.
For bulbs, I have found these really nice Philips ones. The beam pattern and brightness matches the filament ones. Problem is they are very expensive at $100 a pair.
You can take a look at them here:
http://www.philips.com.au/c-p/12763X...-lamp/overview
I might go and try some cheaper eBay ones first.
As for the resistors, I actually have used "LED decoders" in my previous car. These are plug and play resistors that don't require splicing any wires or the resistor getting hot as they are enclosed in a heat shrink. Problem would be finding space. You can take a look here:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2x-T20-74...kAAOSwstxVKMW6
I haven't opened the tail light assembly, so I have no idea how much space I am working with. If I have time tomorrow, I will go and open it up and see what I'm dealing with.
Can anyone here confirm the bulb size is a 7440/T20 bulb?
#37
Lexus Test Driver
Okay, now that I finally had my NX for a week, I can start modding it You can see in the "Upgrade cargo lights with LED's" thread that I have replaced all my other lights with LEDs and the rear turn signals are the last ones.
The OP of this thread has gone, I have messaged him about his lights to see how they are going, but he hasn't responded. He said his bulbs didn't require resistors, which would be the perfect solution if it was true.
Anyway I am going to try this mod out myself.
For bulbs, I have found these really nice Philips ones. The beam pattern and brightness matches the filament ones. Problem is they are very expensive at $100 a pair.
You can take a look at them here:
http://www.philips.com.au/c-p/12763X...-lamp/overview
I might go and try some cheaper eBay ones first.
As for the resistors, I actually have used "LED decoders" in my previous car. These are plug and play resistors that don't require splicing any wires or the resistor getting hot as they are enclosed in a heat shrink. Problem would be finding space. You can take a look here:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2x-T20-74...kAAOSwstxVKMW6
I haven't opened the tail light assembly, so I have no idea how much space I am working with. If I have time tomorrow, I will go and open it up and see what I'm dealing with.
Can anyone here confirm the bulb size is a 7440/T20 bulb?
The OP of this thread has gone, I have messaged him about his lights to see how they are going, but he hasn't responded. He said his bulbs didn't require resistors, which would be the perfect solution if it was true.
Anyway I am going to try this mod out myself.
For bulbs, I have found these really nice Philips ones. The beam pattern and brightness matches the filament ones. Problem is they are very expensive at $100 a pair.
You can take a look at them here:
http://www.philips.com.au/c-p/12763X...-lamp/overview
I might go and try some cheaper eBay ones first.
As for the resistors, I actually have used "LED decoders" in my previous car. These are plug and play resistors that don't require splicing any wires or the resistor getting hot as they are enclosed in a heat shrink. Problem would be finding space. You can take a look here:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2x-T20-74...kAAOSwstxVKMW6
I haven't opened the tail light assembly, so I have no idea how much space I am working with. If I have time tomorrow, I will go and open it up and see what I'm dealing with.
Can anyone here confirm the bulb size is a 7440/T20 bulb?
Last edited by AndyL; 01-19-16 at 07:33 AM.
#38
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Do you know if the Philip's one requires resistors?
#39
Lexus Test Driver
I believe it still requires the canceller/LED detector as Philips also supplies their own
http://www.amazon.co.jp/PHILIPS-フィリッ...QAW8JR5Y08WR1F
http://www.amazon.co.jp/PHILIPS-フィリッ...QAW8JR5Y08WR1F
#40
Racer
As I previously mentioning this thread, I had my taillamp assembly removed and added the LED bulb only to find that it hyper-blinked. So I went and bought resisters (ceramic) but it turns out that there was absolutely no room for them in the housing.
If your resistors fit, please take photos of your procedure as I would like to finish what I started.
Tip: Be sure to mask-off the area surrounding the light's exoskeleton (as shown in my photos). Although it's not needed to actually remove the assembly, when it came loose (separated from the vehicle), it can scratch the paint. Had I not put tape there, I would have ended up with a deep scratch.
Good luck!
If your resistors fit, please take photos of your procedure as I would like to finish what I started.
Tip: Be sure to mask-off the area surrounding the light's exoskeleton (as shown in my photos). Although it's not needed to actually remove the assembly, when it came loose (separated from the vehicle), it can scratch the paint. Had I not put tape there, I would have ended up with a deep scratch.
Good luck!
#41
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What LED replacement did you buy for the rear?
Do you have photos of the housing?
#42
The CANBUS led's will not stop the hyperflashing, that combats another problem with the difference in resistance causing error messages for primarily European cars. You need to get led bulbs that either have the resistor/anti-flashing built into the bulb, or those that come with an external resistor solution. For most applications, there may not be room for the external resistor so you need to get something with the resistor built in. IJDMTOY.com has them and you may be able to find some on amazon
Last edited by 1Putt; 01-19-16 at 06:36 PM.
#43
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You still need to put that box somewhere. I still need to open the tail light assembly to see if anything can fit in there.
#44
Racer
The OP of this thread said he didn't need resistors... Have any of you bought the ones from Amazon like the OP?
Do you have the premium DRLs with LED turn signals in the front or the standard one?
What LED replacement did you buy for the rear?
Do you have photos of the housing?
What LED replacement did you buy for the rear?
Do you have photos of the housing?
Another owner on this forum did the same and had similar results (after exchanging PMs). Since there isn't enough room for a resistor, I reverted back to the original incandescent bulbs. The other owner did the same.
I didn't take a photo of the inside of the housing, unfortunately.
#45
Racer
From someone who has removed the taillight assembly—and from what I can tell by the photo—there's definitely no room for that inside the assembly housing.