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Managed to get thru this myself with chezgk's help. Thank you very much! It doesn't feel at all like a fatter rear sway bar, but I feel the difference in faster corners where you can definitely feel something holding up the rear corners as opposed to the excessive lean in stock. Without passengers / load, the behavior on flat roads is like stock as the bumpstops are not engaged. That suited me fine as well...
Managed to get thru this myself with chezgk's help. Thank you very much! It doesn't feel at all like a fatter rear sway bar, but I feel the difference in faster corners where you can definitely feel something holding up the rear corners as opposed to the excessive lean in stock. Without passengers / load, the behavior on flat roads is like stock as the bumpstops are not engaged. That suited me fine as well...
Glad everything worked out as expected. We really are fortunate to have a provision for an active bump stop built into our chassis. Now that you've confirmed results, I'll find time to write a DIY guide one of these days.
Hello, newbie to the forum here. Follow you thread for a time, and took advise on the sway bar but got the megan racing 25.4mm rear hollow bar for my fwd NX. The thing made the car more neutral and I actually fing it more stable an confortable. Even my wife noticed it, wich she rarely notice anything I do to the car.
Very happy with it. NEXT UPGRADE: The bumpnstops, but wanted to ask, what is that red cover your springs have?
Hello, newbie to the forum here. Follow you thread for a time, and took advise on the sway bar but got the megan racing 25.4mm rear hollow bar for my fwd NX. The thing made the car more neutral and I actually fing it more stable an confortable. Even my wife noticed it, wich she rarely notice anything I do to the car.
Very happy with it. NEXT UPGRADE: The bumpnstops, but wanted to ask, what is that red cover your springs have?
Hello! I'm glad you found the rear sway bar beneficial. Don't mind the red rubber ring in the photo - that's something I put on when I was still experimenting with rear spring rates.
If you want to push through with bump stops on stock/factory height, I suggest reducing the fatter spacer in the Timbren JFC01 kit by 10mm and purchasing a few M10 fender washers to adjust the engagement point. As I mentioned earlier, you'll also need M10x1.25 bolts in 65 or 70mm lengths to suit Toyota's fine metric threads.
If you're interested in improving cornering performance and will lower your NX someday, you'll need a 35mm bolt, a 15mm M10 standoff, and a couple of M10 washers instead to keep the engagement point reasonable. I'll go ahead and share the other bits in my AWD NX that make it handle well AND stay reasonably comfortable:
1. Tanabe TNF196 (for FWD) front springs, 2.80 kg/mm rate.
2. RS-R T532D rear springs, 7.27 kg/mm rate.
The rear springs have a higher rate since they are mounted inboard. Together, the rates yield "flat ride", allowing the rear to catch up to the front and settle the vehicle faster without having to resort to increased damping. Fat Cat Motorsports has a lot of informative videos on this in their YouTube channel - just search "flat ride suspension".
===FRONT END===
3. Whiteline 10mm preload spacer inserted within the front strut - The Tanabe TNF196 drops a little more than I want, so this part preloads the spring assembly and raises the suspension back up without affecting the spring rate, recovering bump travel in the process. It keeps the vehicle off the front bump stops, too, thus preserving damper life.
4. Ground Control bump stops - Retained the base of the factory front bump stops then installed these in place of the removed segments. They are far more progressive/comfortable than the factory bump stops yet are able to quickly ramp up in rate once a certain amount of suspension compression is reached.
5. SuperPro lower control arm front and rear double-offset bushings - Yields a noticeable increase in caster (7.3 deg. vs 5.5 deg before) and more direct steering feel. Also introduces ideal camber activity as the wheels are turned. Increased caster also reduces bump toe-out/understeer bias.
6. SPC front camber adjustment bolts - to get to my target settings.
7. Hardrace camber curve correctors - delays the switch from negative camber gain to positive camber gain that is typical of MacPherson suspension systems and thus reduces the front camber "washout"/understeer bias. Also increased front track width. Since this part modifies the steering axis, front wheel offset will need to be reduced from factory +35 to +25-ish to maintain scrub radius. I've yet to take delivery of my new set of ET+25 wheels.
===REAR END===
8. Cusco 25mm rear stabilizer bar - as detailed in this thread.
9. Megan Racing adjustable rear upper arms - allows rear camber to be managed, so the increased front grip doesn't overpower the rear end too much.
10. Active bump stop - as mentioned earlier in this thread.
The above setup looks pretty okay aesthetics-wise as well, in my opinion, though this never was a priority.
Hello! I'm glad you found the rear sway bar beneficial. Don't mind the red rubber ring in the photo - that's something I put on when I was still experimenting with rear spring rates.
If you want to push through with bump stops on stock/factory height, I suggest reducing the fatter spacer in the Timbren JFC01 kit by 10mm and purchasing a few M10 fender washers to adjust the engagement point. As I mentioned earlier, you'll also need M10x1.25 bolts in 65 or 70mm lengths to suit Toyota's fine metric threads.
If you're interested in improving cornering performance and will lower your NX someday, you'll need a 35mm bolt, a 15mm M10 standoff, and a couple of M10 washers instead to keep the engagement point reasonable. I'll go ahead and share the other bits in my AWD NX that make it handle well AND stay reasonably comfortable:
1. Tanabe TNF196 (for FWD) front springs, 2.80 kg/mm rate.
2. RS-R T532D rear springs, 7.27 kg/mm rate.
The rear springs have a higher rate since they are mounted inboard. Together, the rates yield "flat ride", allowing the rear to catch up to the front and settle the vehicle faster without having to resort to increased damping. Fat Cat Motorsports has a lot of informative videos on this in their YouTube channel - just search "flat ride suspension".
===FRONT END===
3. Whiteline 10mm preload spacer inserted within the front strut - The Tanabe TNF196 drops a little more than I want, so this part preloads the spring assembly and raises the suspension back up without affecting the spring rate, recovering bump travel in the process. It keeps the vehicle off the front bump stops, too, thus preserving damper life.
4. Ground Control bump stops - Retained the base of the factory front bump stops then installed these in place of the removed segments. They are far more progressive/comfortable than the factory bump stops yet are able to quickly ramp up in rate once a certain amount of suspension compression is reached.
5. SuperPro lower control arm front and rear double-offset bushings - Yields a noticeable increase in caster (7.3 deg. vs 5.5 deg before) and more direct steering feel. Also introduces ideal camber activity as the wheels are turned. Increased caster also reduces bump toe-out/understeer bias.
6. SPC front camber adjustment bolts - to get to my target settings.
7. Hardrace camber curve correctors - delays the switch from negative camber gain to positive camber gain that is typical of MacPherson suspension systems and thus reduces the front camber "washout"/understeer bias. Also increased front track width. Since this part modifies the steering axis, front wheel offset will need to be reduced from factory +35 to +25-ish to maintain scrub radius. I've yet to take delivery of my new set of ET+25 wheels.
===REAR END===
8. Cusco 25mm rear stabilizer bar - as detailed in this thread.
9. Megan Racing adjustable rear upper arms - allows rear camber to be managed, so the increased front grip doesn't overpower the rear end too much.
10. Active bump stop - as mentioned earlier in this thread.
The above setup looks pretty okay aesthetics-wise as well, in my opinion, though this never was a priority.
Wao!! your ride is really nice, and your setup should yield impressive results for this car. I have to a little slower than you cause this is my wife's car. But maybe in a year Ill get her a RX 350 and then I can fully play with the NX. As of today my setup is Upgraded turbo, Orange Virus tuning, TTi turbo silencer delete, HPS charge pipe, Primary de-cated downpipe/ Sound proof interior, Infinity and JBL Speakers all around, with Bose sub. The wife like the extra power and sound, I really love it!. I never tough that this car could handle so well.
Wao!! your ride is really nice, and your setup should yield impressive results for this car. I have to a little slower than you cause this is my wife's car. But maybe in a year Ill get her a RX 350 and then I can fully play with the NX. As of today my setup is Upgraded turbo, Orange Virus tuning, TTi turbo silencer delete, HPS charge pipe, Primary de-cated downpipe/ Sound proof interior, Infinity and JBL Speakers all around, with Bose sub. The wife like the extra power and sound, I really love it!. I never tough that this car could handle so well.
Well, in-depth suspension work might be out of the equation then, since it's your wife's car. Mind sharing details on the upgraded turbo? I have almost similar motor work: OV tune, TTi turbo muffler delete, FTP charge pipe. EDIT: which I now realize is clearly visible in my signature haha
Well, in-depth suspension work might be out of the equation then, since it's your wife's car. Mind sharing details on the upgraded turbo? I have almost similar motor work: OV tune, TTi turbo muffler delete, FTP charge pipe. EDIT: which I now realize is clearly visible in my signature haha
Well the upgrade was performed by a local turbo shop here PR, Turbo Outlet, you can look it Here https://www.facebook.com/Turbo-Outlet-534444126621334/ although the site is in Spanish Leonard(the Owner), speaks English. The Upgrade consisted of a bigger impeller I believe is 3.5 mm bigger, with a 7+7 blade extended tip design instead of the factory 6+6. Also I took apart the housings a extensibly ported the inlet and outlet as well as redirected the exhaust flow by modifying the housing with a little grinder love, the result, is much better spool, it holds pressure all the way to redline and is less peaky, air temperature is lowered a small amount also. I have not taken her to the track but I have done some pulls and before the upgrades my highlander would blow away the NX, now the NX can pulls 2 cars ahead from the start and keeps pulling hard, although I have to say, that none of this was truly taken advantage of until I got rid of the primary cat, that thing chokes this engine.
For the front sway bar, I searched some information from the internet, the parts number of sway bar for AGZ10(NX200t) and AYZ15(NX300h) are the same. It is 48811-78020.
in the cusco homepage shows that it is for sale of the front sway bar for AGZ15 with part number 925 311 A30.
Can anybody tell me if the about is correct
For the front sway bar, I searched some information from the internet, the parts number of sway bar for AGZ10(NX200t) and AYZ15(NX300h) are the same. It is 48811-78020.
in the cusco homepage shows that it is for sale of the front sway bar for AGZ15 with part number 925 311 A30.
Can anybody tell me if the about is correct
Yes, that's correct. It fits:
Lexus NX200t/300 AGZ10/15 (2014-present)
Lexus NX300h AYZ10/15 (2014-present)
Toyota Alphard GGH20/ANH20 (2008-2015)
Toyota Previa XR50 (2006-present)
Toyota Harrier ZSU/AVU (2013-present)
and I believe the Prius wagon
I ended up removing mine though. I found the harshness to handling ratio too unfavorable. Do note that installation requires loosening transmission mounts, dropping the subframe a bit, and partially removing the lower control arm. If I remember right, I even had to loosen the steering rack on mine, just to get the subframe to drop enough for me to snake the front sway bar through.
02-27-20, 11:48 AM
