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I don't have any parts, just got the vehicle over the weekend. I read your downpipe post and notice the 40+ increase in tq but hardly any hp.
With the BMS Stage 1
We are only seeing a +1.12whp peak, but at 4000rpm there's a difference of +22.81 WHP and +30.8 WTQ. Power under the curve is where the driver will really feel the difference. Even if the peak numbers are not greatly impacted, the power gain throughout the powerband (rpm range) will move the car faster from point A to B therefore making the vehicle's acceleration faster.
I just ordered the BMS box. Sorry for the newbie question but do you keep the drive mode in Sports mode all the time or will you also notice a difference in Normal mode? I really wished we can keep the sports mode setting permanently. Still hoping Carista would be able to do this,
I'm itching to tune my IS300 and I was checking out each of the website's listed on Page 1. But I noticed BMS Stage 1 is not available in California and VRTune makes you sign a wavier.
Are these ECU piggy-back/tune illegal in California and some other states?
California Air Resource Board has made most all mods to the engine of a car illegal. I have read that even DOT and former CARB approved intakes are now outlawed. Lowering your car lower than stock is illegal in Cali, Any exhaust is illegal is it can reach above something like 92 decibels or can be heard at 50 feet. Cali has the craziest laws in the country. You can not walk away from the beer vender you bought beer from at a state fair until you have finished the beer or disposed of it.
California Air Resource Board has made most all mods to the engine of a car illegal. I have read that even DOT and former CARB approved intakes are now outlawed. Lowering your car lower than stock is illegal in Cali, Any exhaust is illegal is it can reach above something like 92 decibels or can be heard at 50 feet. Cali has the craziest laws in the country. You can not walk away from the beer vender you bought beer from at a state fair until you have finished the beer or disposed of it.
then there must be a helluva lot of illegal cars running around out there..cal custom stuff is all well known.
There is, I have always been impressed with the level of custom in the socal area with how hard the laws are. When I lived there, they had emissions check points. Like DUI checkpoints but instead they had a damn trailer with a wheel roller and they would test your emissions. I think the way people get away with it is just the massive population. The law enforcement have other things to worry about as well are just out numbered.
Are any down pipes available for the AWD NX? How do they keep the engine light off? I would think the O2 sensors would trigger a light. I was thinking I had an O2 sim on my ISF when I gutted the cats so maybe that would work?
Are any down pipes available for the AWD NX? How do they keep the engine light off? I would think the O2 sensors would trigger a light. I was thinking I had an O2 sim on my ISF when I gutted the cats so maybe that would work?
Yes, there's one available, according to Tony of TTI. Some members here put O2 sensor spacers to avoid tripping off the CEL, based on what I read. I wouldn't know since I only ordered the Stage 1 ECU+TCU tune for now and not the Stage 2 + DP combo. Cheers
Are any down pipes available for the AWD NX? How do they keep the engine light off? I would think the O2 sensors would trigger a light. I was thinking I had an O2 sim on my ISF when I gutted the cats so maybe that would work?
I went to the track with my NX and learned some interesting things. biggest was..
I'm pretty sure the AFE Scorcher is not changing my engine performance at all. I first suspected this when I changed the tune mode from stock to race and NOTHING happened. My times were the same if not slower and the car felt no faster. I was logging data and I saw my charge air temps were sky rocketing (because our water-air intercooler is trash) so I chalked it up to that. But my water\meth injection system has a boost gauge built in for the progressive rate so I started watching it during pulls. In stock mod, the stock digital boost gauge would read 15psi while the water/meth would read 12ish peak. The difference between the two sensors is not that big of a deal, could be vacuum line flex or sensor sensitivity. What I was looking for was if the boost went up in race mod. It claims +4psi. What I saw was when in race mode, the water/meth was seeing the same boost of 12ish peak while the stock digital gauge was showing 7ish peak. The data log shows no change as well. All run, no matter of AFE mode settings where the same. I think the only thing that was fouled was the stock digital gauge, the boost level remained the same.
I will say, I was seeing charge air temps that would worry most racers, I was getting 160 at idle after heat soak took effect. The water/meth injection was able to keep the temp there or move it down by 5-7 degrees through a pull (under full boost). But, with an ambient air temp of 80, I should have been able to show a 100-110 degree charge temp under full load. I think if you want a 8AR-FTS engine to go faster, the intercooler should be the very first thing you address. There are many variables to think about or why what happened but I believe that even if the AFE was working, adding 4psi to a 160 degree CACT system would do nothing because of heat at best or be asking for bad things to happen at worst. have a lot of logs to sift through from the night but I will be posting it up for all to see after I mine it all.
our intercooler is crap? C'mon sky? theyre japanese engineers they know what they are doing? hahahaha but lets be fair saying the intercooler is crap. its not meant to be a track vehicle.
I went to the track with my NX and learned some interesting things. biggest was..
I'm pretty sure the AFE Scorcher is not changing my engine performance at all. I first suspected this when I changed the tune mode from stock to race and NOTHING happened. My times were the same if not slower and the car felt no faster. I was logging data and I saw my charge air temps were sky rocketing (because our water-air intercooler is trash) so I chalked it up to that. But my water\meth injection system has a boost gauge built in for the progressive rate so I started watching it during pulls. In stock mod, the stock digital boost gauge would read 15psi while the water/meth would read 12ish peak. The difference between the two sensors is not that big of a deal, could be vacuum line flex or sensor sensitivity. What I was looking for was if the boost went up in race mod. It claims +4psi. What I saw was when in race mode, the water/meth was seeing the same boost of 12ish peak while the stock digital gauge was showing 7ish peak. The data log shows no change as well. All run, no matter of AFE mode settings where the same. I think the only thing that was fouled was the stock digital gauge, the boost level remained the same.
I will say, I was seeing charge air temps that would worry most racers, I was getting 160 at idle after heat soak took effect. The water/meth injection was able to keep the temp there or move it down by 5-7 degrees through a pull (under full boost). But, with an ambient air temp of 80, I should have been able to show a 100-110 degree charge temp under full load. I think if you want a 8AR-FTS engine to go faster, the intercooler should be the very first thing you address. There are many variables to think about or why what happened but I believe that even if the AFE was working, adding 4psi to a 160 degree CACT system would do nothing because of heat at best or be asking for bad things to happen at worst. have a lot of logs to sift through from the night but I will be posting it up for all to see after I mine it all.
Interesting. I've never tested the AFE sorcher, so i can't comment on its performance. I will say an upgraded heat exchange should definitely be on the to do list!
03-28-18, 06:31 AM
