Who has more mileage than me? Over 50K and out of warranty
#1
Who has more mileage than me? Over 50K and out of warranty
I just crossed 50k miles last night and now officially out of warranty. I bought my car two years ago in May.
Anyone else has more miles on their NX?
Anyone else has more miles on their NX?
#2
Mine '17 FSport is 6 months old and 8700 miles so it will be awhile before I hit 50k.
#3
Repairs on any original Lexus part of the vehicle that is defective in material or in workmanship under normal use.
48 months/80,000 km, whichever comes first.
Powertrain & Safety Restraints
72 months/110,000 km, whichever comes first.
Corrosion Perforation
Any body sheet metal found, under normal use, to have developed a perforation (hole through the body panel) from corrosion due to defects in material or workmanship.
72 months, regardless of distance travelled.
Emission Control Components
48 months/80,000 km, whichever comes first.
Major emission control components
96 months/130,000 km
Major emission component performance warranty
24 months/40,000 km
Adjustments
Service adjustments found to be out of alignment from factory specification (not usually associated with the replacement of parts)
Usually 12 months/20,000 km, but see Dealership for details.
Hybrid-related components
Applies to the battery control module, hybrid vehicle control module, Hybrid High Voltage battery and the inverter/converter.
96 months/160,000 km
#6
I just hit 50k and bought mine in April of 2015. Issues ive had...
Bad shake using the Michelin tires that were standard. had them replaced with Yokohamas. They were better but not great.
Driver's seat doesn't always return forward after pulling back for easy exit. Lexus cant replicate issue because its intermittent and won't repair.
Navigation home button stopped working- they replaced the whole touchpad 3 weeks ago
it's in the shop now having the passenger mirror replaced. The problem started when in reverse (with the reverse lowering mirror feature activated) mirror would not return up. Said screw it and put it in the neutral position (between L and R) where the mirror is not supposed to lower. Started lowering anyway....
Overall i love this car and do more everyday. It really is the perfect size for me and its comfy so bonus
Bad shake using the Michelin tires that were standard. had them replaced with Yokohamas. They were better but not great.
Driver's seat doesn't always return forward after pulling back for easy exit. Lexus cant replicate issue because its intermittent and won't repair.
Navigation home button stopped working- they replaced the whole touchpad 3 weeks ago
it's in the shop now having the passenger mirror replaced. The problem started when in reverse (with the reverse lowering mirror feature activated) mirror would not return up. Said screw it and put it in the neutral position (between L and R) where the mirror is not supposed to lower. Started lowering anyway....
Overall i love this car and do more everyday. It really is the perfect size for me and its comfy so bonus
#7
Actually no. The only thing out of the ordinary that I had to fix was my alignment. The alignment caused uneven wear on my tires and will cause me to have to replace my tires prematurely.
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#9
Hello All,
I Have 2010 RX450H, had it for 7 years and no issues until recently. I have ABS issue, getting 1391 code " Accumulator Leaking". I spent $900 on a new accumulator (47070-48050) and got it installed at the local mechanic. All the fault codes disappeared after I reconnected the system but unfortunately after driving it for 50-80 miles issue is back.
- Does that mean my accumulator was OK, the issue is with Actuator ?
- Does Accumulator needs to be reprogramed after installation?
- Does Actuator needs programming after installation?
- Does Lexus have an extended warranty on Actuator? How to approach Lexus if this warranty exists?
any Help would be appreciated.
I Have 2010 RX450H, had it for 7 years and no issues until recently. I have ABS issue, getting 1391 code " Accumulator Leaking". I spent $900 on a new accumulator (47070-48050) and got it installed at the local mechanic. All the fault codes disappeared after I reconnected the system but unfortunately after driving it for 50-80 miles issue is back.
- Does that mean my accumulator was OK, the issue is with Actuator ?
- Does Accumulator needs to be reprogramed after installation?
- Does Actuator needs programming after installation?
- Does Lexus have an extended warranty on Actuator? How to approach Lexus if this warranty exists?
any Help would be appreciated.
#10
Hello All,
I Have 2010 RX450H, had it for 7 years and no issues until recently. I have ABS issue, getting 1391 code " Accumulator Leaking". I spent $900 on a new accumulator (47070-48050) and got it installed at the local mechanic. All the fault codes disappeared after I reconnected the system but unfortunately after driving it for 50-80 miles issue is back.
- Does that mean my accumulator was OK, the issue is with Actuator ?
- Does Accumulator needs to be reprogramed after installation?
- Does Actuator needs programming after installation?
- Does Lexus have an extended warranty on Actuator? How to approach Lexus if this warranty exists?
any Help would be appreciated.
I Have 2010 RX450H, had it for 7 years and no issues until recently. I have ABS issue, getting 1391 code " Accumulator Leaking". I spent $900 on a new accumulator (47070-48050) and got it installed at the local mechanic. All the fault codes disappeared after I reconnected the system but unfortunately after driving it for 50-80 miles issue is back.
- Does that mean my accumulator was OK, the issue is with Actuator ?
- Does Accumulator needs to be reprogramed after installation?
- Does Actuator needs programming after installation?
- Does Lexus have an extended warranty on Actuator? How to approach Lexus if this warranty exists?
any Help would be appreciated.
Try checking the RX boards. They are likely to have more help for you since this is vehicle specific.
T
#11
The majority of the list you can do your self.
Oil change - $60 using OEM filter/Toyota full synthetic oil
Cabin Air filter- $20 (Cheapest OEM I found online was $18)
Brake fluid- $35
Engine Air filter -$20 (Cheapest OEM I found online was around $18-19)
Smart Key battery - $2
Rotate Tires - Free
Reset Maintenance Warning- Free
Reset Oil Maintenance - Free
$135 give or take and about 2 hours of your time
-Nigel
Last edited by nigel821; 12-30-19 at 08:36 AM.
#12
#13
Doesn't seem like a $700 service to me at all... Most of which they are just "checking" things.
The majority of the list you can do your self.
Oil change - $60 using OEM filter/Toyota full synthetic oil
Cabin Air filter- $20 (Cheapest OEM I found online was $18)
Brake fluid- $35
Engine Air filter -$20 (Cheapest OEM I found online was around $18-19)
Smart Key battery - $2
Rotate Tires - Free
Reset Maintenance Warning- Free
Reset Oil Maintenance - Free
$135 give or take and about 2 hours of your time
-Nigel
The majority of the list you can do your self.
Oil change - $60 using OEM filter/Toyota full synthetic oil
Cabin Air filter- $20 (Cheapest OEM I found online was $18)
Brake fluid- $35
Engine Air filter -$20 (Cheapest OEM I found online was around $18-19)
Smart Key battery - $2
Rotate Tires - Free
Reset Maintenance Warning- Free
Reset Oil Maintenance - Free
$135 give or take and about 2 hours of your time
-Nigel
Air filters are easy. Not sure I’d attempt a brake fluid flush unless very comfortable with diy work.
#15
I will play devils advocate to the MB.
I bought a used w211 09', from a member on my MB forum I belong to. It was pristine. Had around 54k miles on it. Bought it about 3 years ago I think. It's been quite nice honestly. I think it GREATLY depends on the year, model, and who you are getting it off of. IE: If I would have bought an 06' w211 there are KNOWN issues with that year, however since I got the last year of this body style being 09', most of the bugs were worked out and I got everything that I wanted (REALLY wanted an e63, but honestly can't justify having $$$$ repair/visits). The previous owner was a master mechanic and took care of the car.
If you buy a MB and you plan on keeping it you NEED to own STAR/DAS (MB diagnostic software and multiplexer) or know someone that does have it. If not, then Ross is right, you will spend $150 to have the dealer run codes for you. Now with that being said, having STAR/DAS also opens up many possibilities... I've added the following options to our w211 because I can code it with above software. Bi-xenon headlights/factory led running lights, rear ambient console lighting, power opening/closing trunk, backup camera, video in motion, and many diagnostic checks/fixes, and unlocked features in the cluster and various other parts of the car. Some MB are known for being pretty stout, (w209 platform, also owned, Our 05' had close to 200k miles on it.), others are known to not be so much...lol
I think Lexus should be a reliable vehicle, since it's a Toyota but time will tell. I don't think the stuff that is being made now will last any where near what older stuff is and that's mainly due to all the technology in it. IE: I have a 2001 Ranger that still is going strong, but I don't think I'd want to keep our MB or Lexus for 19 years due to the fact that if something electronic goes wrong it's going to be pricey...lol
Ross:
If you can change oil you can do a brake fluid flush. It's seriously not hard at all. If you check out a couple youtube videos you'll see it's not nearly as complicated as what dealers want you to believe. I'd honestly rank it like a 2 out or 10 for difficultly. The wort part about the entire thing is you'll likely get your hands dirty from taking the wheels off/putting them back on than anything else. If you have a motul pump or a speed bleeder you can do it all by yourself. If not, usually you just have someone inside the vehicle and when you crack open the bleeder screw, they push down on the brake pedal. You close the bleeder screw, and then they slowly pull up on the brake pedal. Repeat numerous times until old fluid is out and new fluid starts coming out of each caliper. Easy peasy.
-Nigel
I bought a used w211 09', from a member on my MB forum I belong to. It was pristine. Had around 54k miles on it. Bought it about 3 years ago I think. It's been quite nice honestly. I think it GREATLY depends on the year, model, and who you are getting it off of. IE: If I would have bought an 06' w211 there are KNOWN issues with that year, however since I got the last year of this body style being 09', most of the bugs were worked out and I got everything that I wanted (REALLY wanted an e63, but honestly can't justify having $$$$ repair/visits). The previous owner was a master mechanic and took care of the car.
If you buy a MB and you plan on keeping it you NEED to own STAR/DAS (MB diagnostic software and multiplexer) or know someone that does have it. If not, then Ross is right, you will spend $150 to have the dealer run codes for you. Now with that being said, having STAR/DAS also opens up many possibilities... I've added the following options to our w211 because I can code it with above software. Bi-xenon headlights/factory led running lights, rear ambient console lighting, power opening/closing trunk, backup camera, video in motion, and many diagnostic checks/fixes, and unlocked features in the cluster and various other parts of the car. Some MB are known for being pretty stout, (w209 platform, also owned, Our 05' had close to 200k miles on it.), others are known to not be so much...lol
I think Lexus should be a reliable vehicle, since it's a Toyota but time will tell. I don't think the stuff that is being made now will last any where near what older stuff is and that's mainly due to all the technology in it. IE: I have a 2001 Ranger that still is going strong, but I don't think I'd want to keep our MB or Lexus for 19 years due to the fact that if something electronic goes wrong it's going to be pricey...lol
Ross:
If you can change oil you can do a brake fluid flush. It's seriously not hard at all. If you check out a couple youtube videos you'll see it's not nearly as complicated as what dealers want you to believe. I'd honestly rank it like a 2 out or 10 for difficultly. The wort part about the entire thing is you'll likely get your hands dirty from taking the wheels off/putting them back on than anything else. If you have a motul pump or a speed bleeder you can do it all by yourself. If not, usually you just have someone inside the vehicle and when you crack open the bleeder screw, they push down on the brake pedal. You close the bleeder screw, and then they slowly pull up on the brake pedal. Repeat numerous times until old fluid is out and new fluid starts coming out of each caliper. Easy peasy.
-Nigel
Last edited by nigel821; 12-31-19 at 10:28 AM.