Stereo Upgrade
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TXLexusNX (07-31-23)
12-04-18 | 09:44 PM
#17
Driver
Joined: Nov 2018
Posts: 86
Likes: 21
From: GA
Hey and thanks for posting these photos! This answers my question about which wires to cut since the speakers I'm installing in the dash for my 2017 NX200t only have one black & one red wire. I'm glad you specified that two of them are not used.
Couple of questions:
1. Did you just leave the wiring harness connector connected to the two unused wires?
2. Did it rattle or make any noise? I would be tempted to just snip the other two wires, put a terminal end cap on each unused wire and just get that connector out of the loop altogether. Any reason why I should or should not do that?
Also, I wonder why Lexus used two sets of color coded wires for the left and right sides? You probably don't know, but I'm just curious.
Couple of questions:
1. Did you just leave the wiring harness connector connected to the two unused wires?
2. Did it rattle or make any noise? I would be tempted to just snip the other two wires, put a terminal end cap on each unused wire and just get that connector out of the loop altogether. Any reason why I should or should not do that?
Also, I wonder why Lexus used two sets of color coded wires for the left and right sides? You probably don't know, but I'm just curious.
01-07-19 | 08:19 AM
#20
Pit Crew
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 105
Likes: 16
From: reunion
As a SQL judge and competitor for MECA, USACI, IASCA I much prefer a well placed and natural sound stage over having a flat frequency response with an RTA. It was always easier to tune a stereo with a flat response with pink noise, than have a well placed sound stage that accurately replicated instruments and vocals. I had two Eq/time delay settings for these competitions.
But, BRAVO to the OP for what he's doing!
As a side note, do you guys feel the dash is deep enough and the windshield is sloped well enough with respect to the driver's seat to recreate a sound stage that it sounds like it's coming from outside the car on the hood? I've been itchy to determine if it's worth the investment. Lol my wife would say no, but the audiophile in me wants to rip it all out and do something like the OP and some......
But, BRAVO to the OP for what he's doing!
As a side note, do you guys feel the dash is deep enough and the windshield is sloped well enough with respect to the driver's seat to recreate a sound stage that it sounds like it's coming from outside the car on the hood? I've been itchy to determine if it's worth the investment. Lol my wife would say no, but the audiophile in me wants to rip it all out and do something like the OP and some......
1) i am agree that having a flat response with RTA is much easier than getting a well placed sound stage,but you can have both too...
In modern sound system now placement is not the aim, the aim isto "wrap "through all the listeners like a dolby prologic 2 or something close does
2)the dash is deep enough to get a well litered speaker between 2 and 4" . With a good litered Dynaudio you can slope it to 300hz on the dash . this is what did a friend of mine who changed all the speaker for dynaudio . Mine is only 500hz...And yes you can go larger than stock in soundstaging
01-23-19 | 02:26 AM
#22
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 44
Likes: 7
From: Kanagawa
Thanks for the update OP.
How are you liking he staging? With the tweeters in the dash and 6.5 doors? Is is enough?
I take delivery of my car in March. Going to put in something similar but am torn between what you have done or getting the Focal PS 165 F3 and try to squeeze in the small mid and tweeters in the dash.
Please share your thoughts.
How are you liking he staging? With the tweeters in the dash and 6.5 doors? Is is enough?
I take delivery of my car in March. Going to put in something similar but am torn between what you have done or getting the Focal PS 165 F3 and try to squeeze in the small mid and tweeters in the dash.
Please share your thoughts.
Last edited by NipponCDN; 01-23-19 at 09:12 PM.
01-24-19 | 04:28 PM
#23
Thread Starter
Driver
Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 83
Likes: 23
From: Texas
Thanks for the update OP.
How are you liking he staging? With the tweeters in the dash and 6.5 doors? Is is enough?
I take delivery of my car in March. Going to put in something similar but am torn between what you have done or getting the Focal PS 165 F3 and try to squeeze in the small mid and tweeters in the dash.
Please share your thoughts.
How are you liking he staging? With the tweeters in the dash and 6.5 doors? Is is enough?
I take delivery of my car in March. Going to put in something similar but am torn between what you have done or getting the Focal PS 165 F3 and try to squeeze in the small mid and tweeters in the dash.
Please share your thoughts.
I was looking for something that fit under the factory grill, I couldn't find a coaxial 3 inch speaker that I liked and a 4inch wouldn't go without modification . There could be one available but I never found it. Regarding the staging, I'm very pleased with the sound improvement and everyone that listens agrees.
I also wanted a full active setup and the factory loom does send the 4 dash wires to the rear, only did. I would had to run a speaker wire to the amp for a full active 2 way dash.
If you were in Dallas I'd demo it for you.
Brandon
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NipponCDN (01-24-19)
01-24-19 | 06:31 PM
#24
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 44
Likes: 7
From: Kanagawa
Thanks Brandon for the update.
Regarding running new speaker wire and through the doors, think it would be a major undertaking and pain in the ****...
Guess once I get the car I can see how much of a pain a 3 inch and tweeter wil be....
Jason in Tokyo
Regarding running new speaker wire and through the doors, think it would be a major undertaking and pain in the ****...
Guess once I get the car I can see how much of a pain a 3 inch and tweeter wil be....
Jason in Tokyo
06-21-19 | 02:24 AM
#25
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 44
Likes: 7
From: Kanagawa
Hello again Brandon, need some help from you on hooking up the DSP to the factory amp.
I ended up getting the Helix DSP.3 and am going with A pillar tweeters, 4” in the dash and 6.5” doors (Focal Power Series) and will run fully active off all their own Audison Lx channels.
So my questions:
1. Did you disconnect all the other factory speakers or cut their wires at the amp?
2. I am assuming from all you’ve posted a SUB line in isn’t needed - you got the full signal needed from the front speakers?
3. Did you lose your hands-free function? I have the Lexus schematics and they show my left front speaker runs through a Telematics receiver in the dash. I am assuming this is where it handles calls and voice commands to the speaker. How did you wire this?
I will start a build thread in July, hope you can assist when needed mate.
Jason in Tokyo
I ended up getting the Helix DSP.3 and am going with A pillar tweeters, 4” in the dash and 6.5” doors (Focal Power Series) and will run fully active off all their own Audison Lx channels.
So my questions:
1. Did you disconnect all the other factory speakers or cut their wires at the amp?
2. I am assuming from all you’ve posted a SUB line in isn’t needed - you got the full signal needed from the front speakers?
3. Did you lose your hands-free function? I have the Lexus schematics and they show my left front speaker runs through a Telematics receiver in the dash. I am assuming this is where it handles calls and voice commands to the speaker. How did you wire this?
I will start a build thread in July, hope you can assist when needed mate.
Jason in Tokyo
06-22-19 | 10:36 AM
#27
Thread Starter
Driver
Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 83
Likes: 23
From: Texas
Hello again Brandon, need some help from you on hooking up the DSP to the factory amp.
I ended up getting the Helix DSP.3 and am going with A pillar tweeters, 4” in the dash and 6.5” doors (Focal Power Series) and will run fully active off all their own Audison Lx channels.
So my questions:
1. Did you disconnect all the other factory speakers or cut their wires at the amp? Cut, I spliced them into the DSP hi-level input then re-used the other side to back feed from the amps.
2. I am assuming from all you’ve posted a SUB line in isn’t needed - you got the full signal needed from the front speakers? Yes, let the DSP create the sub signal.
3. Did you lose your hands-free function? I have the Lexus schematics and they show my left front speaker runs through a Telematics receiver in the dash. I am assuming this is where it handles calls and voice commands to the speaker. How did you wire this? Hands-free still works for me. The factory amp still functions however only supplies output to my DSP therefore all functionality stays original.
I will start a build thread in July, hope you can assist when needed mate.
Jason in Tokyo
I ended up getting the Helix DSP.3 and am going with A pillar tweeters, 4” in the dash and 6.5” doors (Focal Power Series) and will run fully active off all their own Audison Lx channels.
So my questions:
1. Did you disconnect all the other factory speakers or cut their wires at the amp? Cut, I spliced them into the DSP hi-level input then re-used the other side to back feed from the amps.
2. I am assuming from all you’ve posted a SUB line in isn’t needed - you got the full signal needed from the front speakers? Yes, let the DSP create the sub signal.
3. Did you lose your hands-free function? I have the Lexus schematics and they show my left front speaker runs through a Telematics receiver in the dash. I am assuming this is where it handles calls and voice commands to the speaker. How did you wire this? Hands-free still works for me. The factory amp still functions however only supplies output to my DSP therefore all functionality stays original.
I will start a build thread in July, hope you can assist when needed mate.
Jason in Tokyo
06-23-19 | 09:03 PM
#30
Thread Starter
Driver
Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 83
Likes: 23
From: Texas