Underseat Subwoofer for the NX?
#1
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Underseat Subwoofer for the NX?
Hi all,
Did a search and found a single thread on underseat subwoofers from about 3 years ago but no answers so thought I'd throw the q out again. Has anyone ever installed underseat subwoofers or other slim profile subwoofers in their NX and if so, what kind, where and how was the sound? I've had my NX for about 8 months now and mostly no complaints except for a damn intermittent buzzing from the window that I can't seem to get rid of and pretty weak bass. I used to have a Bazooka tube in my youthful days and I'm not looking to going back to chest thumping lows again but I'd like to have a bit more low end in my music, particularly if I crank it up a little. Any help, thoughts or suggestions would be helpful! Thanks.
Did a search and found a single thread on underseat subwoofers from about 3 years ago but no answers so thought I'd throw the q out again. Has anyone ever installed underseat subwoofers or other slim profile subwoofers in their NX and if so, what kind, where and how was the sound? I've had my NX for about 8 months now and mostly no complaints except for a damn intermittent buzzing from the window that I can't seem to get rid of and pretty weak bass. I used to have a Bazooka tube in my youthful days and I'm not looking to going back to chest thumping lows again but I'd like to have a bit more low end in my music, particularly if I crank it up a little. Any help, thoughts or suggestions would be helpful! Thanks.
#3
If you were set on under the seat sub, go with Pioneer.
Though, for my buck, nothing gives better bass in car of this size than Basslink 200. Can't beat passive radiator sound. Then again, already small cargo area will bear quite a volume loss.
if you were Ok with lost cargo space, look into this also:
It's same technology they have in BOSE speakers - long channels to produce potent low.
Though, for my buck, nothing gives better bass in car of this size than Basslink 200. Can't beat passive radiator sound. Then again, already small cargo area will bear quite a volume loss.
if you were Ok with lost cargo space, look into this also:
It's same technology they have in BOSE speakers - long channels to produce potent low.
#4
there is no underseat pioneer subwoofer that can fit on our underseet ...
the only thing i have done a few years , was to place a ts-wx110a pioneer at the passenger place ,near the foots
the only thing i have done a few years , was to place a ts-wx110a pioneer at the passenger place ,near the foots
#5
Yes, there is underseat Pioneer. Just too small to produce any meaningful sound. Fortunately, we have all the seat motors that prohibit it from sliding under. Just like any other sub anyway. Trunk or right behind the driver backrest. I had sub set that way once, he he. Sorta nice vibrating message for your back. Steals passenger seat though. Unless they are Ok with their feet atop the sub. Done that also.
#6
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Thanks for the replies. I checked out the kicker hideaway for under the driver's seat but it sticks out about 3-4 inches. Adds a bit of mid-lows but not worth giving up the space. I'm realizing i'm not going to get real good low-end with any underseat option and I'm not willing to give up what limited cargo space I have for a larger solution.
#7
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Eh, after writing this last night, change of heart. Ordered a Cerwin Vega 10" powered sub - VPAS10. Wil try it underseat but if not, I'm just going to mount it behind the right rear passenger seat. How difficult is it running power from the battery and a sound from either the front or rear speakers?
Trending Topics
#8
I know the VPAS10, you can take the speaker chanel near the connector that goes to the door from each door...About the power , you must run a 8 or 16 gauge from batery to it . Take a good LOC, the stock circuit that equals a LOC to convert the signal speaker to a rca from the Cerwin is not good ,take one from Audiocontrol,PAS, stinger or something close...
#9
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
I know the VPAS10, you can take the speaker chanel near the connector that goes to the door from each door...About the power , you must run a 8 or 16 gauge from batery to it . Take a good LOC, the stock circuit that equals a LOC to convert the signal speaker to a rca from the Cerwin is not good ,take one from Audiocontrol,PAS, stinger or something close...
#10
The sub in the cargo area adds a litle, but it is limited. Front doors and rear doors do woofer and tend to subwoofer range, the subwoofer in the cargo area is just an another addition ...not a real and strong sub...
In my first set up, i have used a ts w110a pioneer and i have done a slope for the woofers in the doors and the sound was better than the stock subwoofer ... remember , the stock subwoofer is not for me a good subwoofer, with my ODR set up now , bass is really strong and precise ...(10inch odr subwoofer)
In my first set up, i have used a ts w110a pioneer and i have done a slope for the woofers in the doors and the sound was better than the stock subwoofer ... remember , the stock subwoofer is not for me a good subwoofer, with my ODR set up now , bass is really strong and precise ...(10inch odr subwoofer)
The following users liked this post:
Suspendmix (04-09-18)
#11
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
The sub in the cargo area adds a litle, but it is limited. Front doors and rear doors do woofer and tend to subwoofer range, the subwoofer in the cargo area is just an another addition ...not a real and strong sub...
In my first set up, i have used a ts w110a pioneer and i have done a slope for the woofers in the doors and the sound was better than the stock subwoofer ... remember , the stock subwoofer is not for me a good subwoofer, with my ODR set up now , bass is really strong and precise ...(10inch odr subwoofer)
In my first set up, i have used a ts w110a pioneer and i have done a slope for the woofers in the doors and the sound was better than the stock subwoofer ... remember , the stock subwoofer is not for me a good subwoofer, with my ODR set up now , bass is really strong and precise ...(10inch odr subwoofer)
Sorry but another q. I'll probably also replace the front dash speakers - maybe Infinity REF or Polk DB speakers, can't afford much more right now but is it as easy as popping out the stock speakers and dropping new ones in or do I need to do any modifying? I can't seem to find speaker harness adapters so I guess I'm splicing the wires? Thanks!
#12
Hi
you have 2 options:
1) using the stock wire and toyota adpaters with new speaker, but you have to cut or splicing due to the fact taht you will have an amplifier
2)you can add a new wire for speaker from your new amplifier and go directly to the new speaker , and in the same case you have to splice or cut
If you have less than 50W nominal let the stock wire ,if more add bigger cable...
he 2 brand you chose are good speakers...
you have 2 options:
1) using the stock wire and toyota adpaters with new speaker, but you have to cut or splicing due to the fact taht you will have an amplifier
2)you can add a new wire for speaker from your new amplifier and go directly to the new speaker , and in the same case you have to splice or cut
If you have less than 50W nominal let the stock wire ,if more add bigger cable...
he 2 brand you chose are good speakers...
The following users liked this post:
Suspendmix (04-09-18)
#13
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Hi
you have 2 options:
1) using the stock wire and toyota adpaters with new speaker, but you have to cut or splicing due to the fact taht you will have an amplifier
2)you can add a new wire for speaker from your new amplifier and go directly to the new speaker , and in the same case you have to splice or cut
If you have less than 50W nominal let the stock wire ,if more add bigger cable...
he 2 brand you chose are good speakers...
you have 2 options:
1) using the stock wire and toyota adpaters with new speaker, but you have to cut or splicing due to the fact taht you will have an amplifier
2)you can add a new wire for speaker from your new amplifier and go directly to the new speaker , and in the same case you have to splice or cut
If you have less than 50W nominal let the stock wire ,if more add bigger cable...
he 2 brand you chose are good speakers...
#14
Yes there is a harnes : an adapter connector that convert oem connector speaker to universal for the doors or dash speakers .the brand i know is PHONOCAR , i will take a look at my friend's shop and tell you the reference.
I prefer you replace the 2 dash speakers and front speaker .Th best is to use an amplifier or a passive filter to get an HPF ( high pass filter) between 50 ot 80 hz to get a solid low midrange without distortion...for the front door speaker
I prefer you replace the 2 dash speakers and front speaker .Th best is to use an amplifier or a passive filter to get an HPF ( high pass filter) between 50 ot 80 hz to get a solid low midrange without distortion...for the front door speaker
The following users liked this post:
Suspendmix (04-09-18)
#15
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Yes there is a harnes : an adapter connector that convert oem connector speaker to universal for the doors or dash speakers .the brand i know is PHONOCAR , i will take a look at my friend's shop and tell you the reference.
I prefer you replace the 2 dash speakers and front speaker .Th best is to use an amplifier or a passive filter to get an HPF ( high pass filter) between 50 ot 80 hz to get a solid low midrange without distortion...for the front door speaker
I prefer you replace the 2 dash speakers and front speaker .Th best is to use an amplifier or a passive filter to get an HPF ( high pass filter) between 50 ot 80 hz to get a solid low midrange without distortion...for the front door speaker
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Dana60
GS - 4th Gen (2013-2020)
26
07-11-14 03:28 PM
itr206
Lexus Audio, Video, Security & Electronics
19
09-29-11 02:48 PM