Homemade Turbo Resonator Bypass
#1
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
Homemade Turbo Resonator Bypass
With my degree and work, I decided to just make a turbo resonator bypass instead of order one from China. If I counted the time and money spent, I would say going with the TTi one would be cheaper since I only made one. If I had pushed out 10, it would have been much better per unit. I would say this one cost me $150ish. Anyways, I matched the stock flange then opened up the tube for better air flow. I flared the end for better hose fitment. I did all this in house, No out sourcing. Honestly, if it was not already made by TTi, I would have considered making a run of 10-20 for other owners. This would fit the NX, RC300, and IS300. (RC200t & IS200t pre 2018). The pipe will soon be tapped for water/meth injector and boost reference. You can see my injection lines in the pic if you look above the pipe. If I did it again, I would replace the whole up pipe from the turbo and the resonator with one smooth flowing piece made of lobster backed Ti or stainless. The white piece next to it was a reference flange I CAD'd. It's a replica of the stock flange. I'm showing that cause I will share the CAD file for anyone wanting to try building there own. Here it is though.
#3
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
power, no. I couldn't imagine that changing power output levels. Might help spool up time but I have not noticed. #1 thing I've noticed is the sound. I have a AEM intake and with this, it sounds like I'm driving around a supra with a hopped up BOV.
#6
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
#7
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
Someone asked about my water/meth set up and since it's attached to my bypass, I will just drop a pic of it here.
Running a Cooling Mist progressive system (stage 2) routed from the back to a 3gph Devil's Own injector that's tapped into the bypass. There is also a vacuum reference line tapped in there. The system runs off the 12V outlet in the trunk area. It turns on pumping at 30% when I hit 5psi and maxes to 100% at 15psi.
Running a Cooling Mist progressive system (stage 2) routed from the back to a 3gph Devil's Own injector that's tapped into the bypass. There is also a vacuum reference line tapped in there. The system runs off the 12V outlet in the trunk area. It turns on pumping at 30% when I hit 5psi and maxes to 100% at 15psi.
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GS3Tek (08-15-18)
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#8
Sorry for the newb question, but im
not as familiar with the Nx as I am with my car ( RCF ) and my previous ( is350 F ). I take it from the pics the turbo is located on the top of the motor? I have the diverter spacer and can’t seem to find where it goes. I didn’t but the part you made due to not knowing either. The Nx is a daily and my girls car, but wanted to make it fun to drive. Learning. Have the JB4 tune and an aem just came in today, I’ll install tomorrow. Any assistance is appreciated. Thanks
not as familiar with the Nx as I am with my car ( RCF ) and my previous ( is350 F ). I take it from the pics the turbo is located on the top of the motor? I have the diverter spacer and can’t seem to find where it goes. I didn’t but the part you made due to not knowing either. The Nx is a daily and my girls car, but wanted to make it fun to drive. Learning. Have the JB4 tune and an aem just came in today, I’ll install tomorrow. Any assistance is appreciated. Thanks
#9
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
Are you trying to locate the turbo? If you look at my picture, the aluminum to the left is the cold side up pipe for the turbo. The hot side is under the heat shield under the bypass i built.
I have not heard of a diverter spacer... Can you show me a picture of this piece?
I have not heard of a diverter spacer... Can you show me a picture of this piece?
#11
Are you trying to locate the turbo? If you look at my picture, the aluminum to the left is the cold side up pipe for the turbo. The hot side is under the heat shield under the bypass i built.
I have not heard of a diverter spacer... Can you show me a picture of this piece?
I have not heard of a diverter spacer... Can you show me a picture of this piece?
The
#12
These pics are from tti, as I’ve asked for assistance. I installed the AEM intake ( broke the hood sensor - hope that’s not pricy ) and saw said piece. BUT, it’s hard as hell to get to. Even removing the resivoir for coolant, the bottom bolt is still too hard. I’m kind of at a loss for spending a hundred bucks and not knowing what to do with the piece. Thanks
#15
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
From what I know, this takes a recirculating diverter valve and bleeds a portion of the over boost air out to the atmosphere. The pros would be louder blow off sounds.The cons would be slower spool up between shifts as well as the issue that the diverted air is metered air so this could cause a rich state or throw a code.
My personal opinion, with how much work you state it takes to install, it would not be worth it. You are getting a possible loss in performance for a sound.
As for worries with the warranty, my best practice is to remove any aftermarket items before going into the dealership for repairs. I don't take all my parts off for services. I would only do it if I threw a code or something broke. That way they won't just knee jerk say the aftermarket item caused the problem. This does not mean that they will not annotate the mods during oil changes and such.. kind of a calculated gamble.
A good example of this would be my adaptive headlights. One day i got a code that they malfunctioned. i took my NX in to the dealer and they instantly said my Tanabe lowering springs caused my rear control arm height sensor to over extend and break. Because of where I work, I had this looked at again and found out the sensor just needed to be re-initialized.
My personal opinion, with how much work you state it takes to install, it would not be worth it. You are getting a possible loss in performance for a sound.
As for worries with the warranty, my best practice is to remove any aftermarket items before going into the dealership for repairs. I don't take all my parts off for services. I would only do it if I threw a code or something broke. That way they won't just knee jerk say the aftermarket item caused the problem. This does not mean that they will not annotate the mods during oil changes and such.. kind of a calculated gamble.
A good example of this would be my adaptive headlights. One day i got a code that they malfunctioned. i took my NX in to the dealer and they instantly said my Tanabe lowering springs caused my rear control arm height sensor to over extend and break. Because of where I work, I had this looked at again and found out the sensor just needed to be re-initialized.