I considered 3 possible locations for rear USB charging ports:
(1) One on each rear door bezel, on which the window switch is mounted. Rejected for 3 reasons . . .
. . . no suitable ignition wire available within the door; only constant battery power. These chargers draw a standby current even when not being used, which could deplete the battery.
. . . tight fit in the cavity below the bezel; could not be centered across the width of the bezel.
. . . upward-facing ports introduce the risk of liquids or other foreign objects falling in (some include a rubber cover that should mitigate this concern).
(2) Mounted somewhere on the plastic trim panel that fills the space between the seat cushion and floor. Behind this panel is a cavity that houses the traction motor battery pack on the NX hybrid model; on other models it is a vast empty space. Advantage . . easy to find a suitable power source. Disadvantage . . might not be convenient if or when you have a center rear passenger.
(3) In the rear panel of the center console. Removal of this panel revealed a duct that fills most of the space, but plenty of room at the bottom. The space above the HVAC outlets is not suitable because it becomes covered when the front armrest storage cover is open. Advantage . . easy to see. Disadvantage . . . charging cable terminations will protrude into the limited floor space, and be susceptible to damaged by an errant foot. I mitigated this concern by recessing the ports. Additional disadvantage . . .some extra work required to route a suitable ignition wire to that location. I used an existing unused connector, clipped to the rear console panel, that was intended for the optional 110VAC power port.

I selected (3), but others find find (2) a better choice. Detailed instructions depend on which you prefer.

I used a standard recessed clock outlet to recess the dual USB charger port:
( )

Some photos are attached.

 

Thank you for the post! You confirmed my suspicion of the console being pre-wired for the 110v port. I was planning on tapping into that for power. I didn’t even think about location 2. I’m interested in either 2 or 3. I have a vague idea on how to install 3, so if you have instructions for 2, that would be awesome!

 

Option 2 and 3 are similar in that a suitable place to tap for Accessory 12V power is the Power port located in the left side panel of the cargo area.
Here is the wiring diagram for the optional 110V inverter:

Connector Q17 is clipped to the rear panel of the center console. Connector Q15 is taped to a harness located under the left rear seat back (region circled in attached image 2). The inverter unit itself was not installed in my NX, nor was the INV relay. As can be seen in image 1 below, access is not good with the rear seat cushion removed. I found the best way to get to Q15 was to remove all of the cargo floor sections, including the spare tire and its Styrofoam cradle. All are held in place either by push-pin fasteners, hidden retainer clips, and just a few screws. There are 6 "Christmas tree" fasteners and 2 screws retaining the flap at the back of the rear seat to the front-most sections of the floor. I,age 2 is the view from the rear with all of the floor sections removed. No more than a 10 minute job to remove them all.
To tap into the cargo area power port, I removed the light just to its right, as well as a removable panel below (image 3 below). There is slack in the harness that can be temporarily pulled out through the lamp opening in order to connect to its +12V and Ground wires. I used a stiff wire to "fish" a cable from behind the lamp to connector Q15. After cutting off and discarding Q15, I connected my new +12V and Gnd wires to the white and black wires that had been connected to pins 7 and 3. Finally, I cut off and discarded Q17, and used those black and white wires at power the USB port.
If you opt for mounting option 2, you can just extend the new wires from the power port under the rear seat to where the USB port will be mounted.

 

- Additional information -
Cargo power port wire colors:
Positive - Green
Negative - White with black stripe (Ground)

Left side cargo lamp wire colors:
Positive - Pink
Negative - White (not connected to Ground)

 

I know this is old but how did you go about attaching the usb charging port as well as the recessed outlet cover to the underside of the rear console? Is it simply just screws through the plastic? Want to make sure when someone inserts a USB cable that the port just doesn't fall into the console.

You mentioned in a different thread that:
-E- The connector circled in blue is for a 110VAC power port, probably not installed in your vehicle. It is inserted into a holder to prevent rattling. You can push the release tab and withdraw the connector if you wish to set the panel aside out of your way.

Is that wire connected to the power port something I can use to install the USB charger like you did?

 

I used a recessed clock outlet (Image 1) to mount the dual USB charge port. These became popular in the 1950s for installation of plug-in wall clocks, and are still sold today at Amazon (search for Topgreener recessed outlet) and "big box stores" (Lowes, Home Depot, etc.). After drilling out the rivets to remove the hook and outlet, I painted it black (Image 2). The recessed outlet housing is mounted to the rear console panel with 2 screws and nuts.

Image 3 is the rear of the console back panel before cutting an opening for the USB charge ports. The red arrow points to one of 2 connector "keepers" that are molded into the panel. I ground off the left one with a Dremel tool, and removed the (unused) connector from the right. This connector is intended for the 100V AC outlet that is available in some markets (not in the USA). I used the wires to connect the USB charge port to the 12V power point circuit. Those wires terminate in another unused connector located below the floor near the left rear seat back.

The dashed red line and red dots represent the approximate locations for cutout and screw holes. I cut the rectangular opening with an oscillating tool (apply masking tape first to provide a surface on which to draw the cut line).

Image 4 shows the panel with the USB charger port mounted. The 2 cable clamps to the right of the AC/heater duct were added to retain a cable I used to install LED illumination for the duct register adjustment controls.

 

How did you mount the USB charger port to the recessed clock outlet?

 

The 110V receptacle was fastened to the recessed enclosure / cover plate, on the back side, with 2 metal studs. I removed the receptacle by grinding off the stud heads. This left a round hole through which the dual USB charge.port could be mounted (it has a threaded body and includes the mounting nut).. The hole was too large, so I purchased 2 big washers at Lowes and painted the outer one black along with the enclosure / cover. I elected not to use the rubber cover that was included with the USB charge port; it simply slides off.

 

WOW, this is incredible work! I wish I could hire you to do this to my car! Looks like it came that way when you bought it!

 

hi, will you please share the steps and details of the modification? I would like to do the same addons if I can. Thank you!

 

What did you do to accomplish the memory seat illumination. I feel like I could use this on both the NX and RCF.

Thanks,
-Nigel

 

lestat928:
Which of the "illumination enhancements" are you primarily interested in?
So I can target my reply appropriately, what is the first first step you are unsure how to perform? Are you comfortable removing the interior door trim panels and soldering resistors, LEDs and capacitors together to fabricate simple control circuits?

nigel821:
Attached are some images of the disassembled memory seat switch.
Image (1) is the switch housing after the switch was removed from the rear of the trim panel. The switch was retained in the housing by small projections molded into the switch that engage slots in the housing. After warming the assembly with a hair dryer (low setting) so the plastic would not be brittle, I used a small screwdriver between switch and housing near each slot to pry out the switch.
Image (2) is the removed switch. Two of the retaining projections are visible along the top.
The various components of the switch are held together by similar tabs and slots. Three beige tabs and slots are visible along the top rear edge of the switch. An iIdentical screwdriver technique was used to separate them.
Image (3) shows the 3 internal switch components: body, printed circuit board, and rear cover. There is a cavity within the body just above the 4 "push buttons". I used foam mounting tape to stuff a small section of flexible LED strip (3 LEDs total) into that cavity, and routed small connecting wires alongside the switch connector.

I wired the LEDs to turn on with the window and lock switch illumination, but since have realized this was probably not the optimum choice. With the door closed, the switch cannot be seen by the driver without leaning to the right, so the value of the back lighting is limited. I have since discovered the seat can be moved by pressing the appropriate memory button even when the car is off. I have gotten into the habit of pressing "my" button as I enter the car, so I may change the wiring to illuminate the switch with the courtesy light that turns on when the door is open.

 

Hi! sorry for messing with this post , but I'm trying to install a carchabi product to open/close automatically my car when aproaching with mobile and I'm gettring crazy to find the cables related with the open/close to lock & unlock the car, I tried to find with tester opening the side panel of the door but i wasn't able to find them , as i see you have a deep knowledge of cabling maybe you can help me or tell where to find this information. Thank you very much

 

Is your steering wheel on the left (USA; Canada; France, etc.) or right side (UK, Australia, Japan, etc.)? I ask because the door lock wires (cables) are different.

If you are searching for individual lock/unlock switch wires within the driver-side door, you will not find them. Communication between the driver-side door lock switch and body computer is accomplished as a serial bit stream on a low-speed multiplex bus. However, the passenger-side door does have separate lock and unlock wires available at the switch.

The Carchabi control module appear quite large and it may be difficult to find a suitable location within the door. You might have to remove some of the white foam sound absorber to achieve sufficient space.

For a Left-side-drive vehicle, wire colors for the passenger-side door lock/unlock switch are:
Unlock - White
Lock - Violet
Ground - White with black stripe.

On my 2019 NX300, momentary operation of this switch will lock and unlock all 4 doors. Check to ensure yours operates in identical fashion before planning your installation..

 

Really really thank u I almost lost the hope ti install the device any installet want to install it and I wasn't able to locate the cable !! So as I understand the passenger open/close button close to ground , no ? Today I identified the connector on the feet passenger side but wasn't able to properly test it cause I haven't a tester with slim enough. I will try to do on weekend, and again really really thanks