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Twisting wires carrying equal and opposite currents effectively reduces electromagnetic interference, preventing electrical noise from entering or leaving the cable. Twisted pairs minimize cross-talk, ensuring that signals transmitted on one pair do not interfere with signals on adjacent pairs, which improves overall signal quality.
Shielded Cable:
The shield acts as a Faraday cage and prevents EMI from reaching the internal signal wire.A shielded cable or screened cable is an electrical cable that has a common conductive layer around its conductors for electromagnetic shielding.[1] This shield is usually covered by an outermost layer of the cable. Common types of cable shielding can most broadly be categorized as foil type (often utilizing a metallised film), contraspiralling wire strands (braided or unbraided) or both.[2] A longitudinal wire may be necessary with dielectric spiral foils to short out each turn.[1]
The shield acts as a Faraday cage – a surface that reflects electromagnetic radiation. This reduces both the interference from outside noise onto the signals and the signals from radiating out and potentially disturbing other devices (see electromagnetic compatibility). To be effective against electric fields (see also capacitive coupling), the shield must be grounded.[3] The shield should be electrically continuous to maximize effectiveness, including any cable splices. For high frequency signals (above a few megahertz), this extends to connectors and enclosures, also circumferentially: The cable shielding needs to be circumferentially connected to the enclosure, if any, through the connector or cable gland.[1][4][5]
The EMI shielding effectiveness of aluminum is one of the best among available materials. The highest levels are seen when using thicker expanded sheets and composite panels, with values reaching above 90 dB. Aluminum foil and mesh shields also offer good shielding capabilities, depending on the thickness of the material.
Summary: Using twisted wire pair and a shielded cable will give you better audio sound.
In reality, line level wires are always shielded with a molded end connectors, and this is all that is needed for every case I have ever seen. You can get these quite long too for car systems.
Speaker level, the wire gauge is more important, and thicker gauge wires seldom if ever come twisted or even need it. Twisted wire is usually very thin and should NOT be used for speaker level wires for the loss of frequency and wattage from resistance.
Unless extreme power is needed, 16ga copper wire works great for runs up to 30ft. Minimal gains from 14ga or 12ga unless the run is 100ft. There are lots of cheaper speaker wire that is copper clad that will corrode eventually and loose conductivity in crimped connections, plus conventional soldering cannot be easily done. In general, I would avoid clad wire, although it gets harder to find pure cooper wire. Clad wire will work in a pinch, and perhaps if the humidity is low be fine too. The inline heat connectors work well enough with this though.
Last edited by AtomicLexus; 06-12-24 at 08:38 AM.
Reason: spelling
For those who want to construct their own shielded cables for Audio, here are a couple of websites. As mentioned previously, the term for Audio is “shielding” not “Faraday caging” your cables. Although the principles are the same, this is an Audio thread, not an industrial electricity thread.
I used twisted pair speaker wire and also used that to connect to the line coming from the head unit to the sub speaker in the back of the vehicle to the high input signal on the Taramps Bass Amp
Good info, especially if money is no object. Crutchfield is in the biz of selling, not maximizing value. My recommendations are best bang for your buck. For less than $125 greatly improves your system.
Good info, especially if money is no object. Crutchfield is in the biz of selling, not maximizing value. My recommendations are best bang for your buck. For less than $125 greatly improves your system.
OP, @AtomicLexus yes your subwoofer recommendation starting the thread was excellent, That along with upgrading the front speakers to better range 2-wqy or coaxial speakers are the first inexpensive steps to significantly improving car audio. I was just adding some additional options and also a fairly detailed article in an attempt to clear up some of the apparent technical jargon confusion. Again great thread you started.
Thanks to all who have posted in this thread! Probably a stupid question, but can someone tell me how to disconnect the metra connector on top of the existing OEM sub while leaving everything else in place? I cannot figure out how to get it loose without damaging something. I'd like to put in a Kicker sub (like tbartman did), and can't figure out how to get that connector loose. Thanks for any help!
Thanks to all who have posted in this thread! Probably a stupid question, but can someone tell me how to disconnect the metra connector on top of the existing OEM sub while leaving everything else in place? I cannot figure out how to get it loose without damaging something. I'd like to put in a Kicker sub (like tbartman did), and can't figure out how to get that connector loose. Thanks for any help!
I recall I had some difficulty removing that as well. Its just a typical connector with a little release tab, but it confounded me for about 10 or 15 minutes as you said, trying not to break it (and it is kind of tucked away so a bit hard to work with it), but in the end, just making sure to properly and fully press the release while wiggling the connector in and out a bit, and then finally out it came. I don't remember where the release tab is, but once I got it to let go, it came off nicely. Maybe I used a little screwdriver to help press the release, but its been a while so I don't remember for sure.
Yeah, I can't figure out where the release tab is. The entire connector is firmly attached to the top of the subwoofer assembly, and the top of the connector does not appear to have the release tab. I'm guessing the release tab is on the bottom of the connector - but that is the part that is firmly attached so some sort of white rubber foot attached to the sub case. I can't see a release on top, and can't figure out how to get to the bottom of the connector without breaking it off the white thing.
So, I decided to try a different approach, like some others wanting to easily put things back to the original condition if the need arises. Also, I preferred to have the sub in the cabin, instead of under the rear deck. I have a cargo mat on top of the deck, and it seemed like the deck itself plus the cargo mat would mute the sound significantly if I put a sub below the deck, or even amplified the OEM sub
. It occurred to me that the space behind the wheel wells is not very usable, and could fit a small sub. I bought the H YANKA SODA-08ASW 8 inch powered sub on Amazon for a little under $100, and wired it to the sub wiring in the rear of my NX 350h. I used the rear power outlet for power. My biggest difficulty was figuring out how to get the connector to the OEM sub to release. It took a lot of time and experimenting to figure out that first you have to pry loose the white holder that holds the wiring harness to the sub. Then you have to insert a small flathead screwdriver into a small gap between the white holder and the two black connectors, to release them from the white holder. Then, the release tab permitting the black connectors to separate is on the bottom, where it was hidden by the white holder. Anyway, my new powered sub is now nestled in the nook where the first aid kit was installed, with extra support from a bungie cord. Not elegant, but out of sight and out of the way. Just installed and tested today. Will do some driving soon to see how it works out.
Hi just to Clarify the dash speaker are 3.5" or 4 as I saw another post there a guy install C2-400x and here is [size=16px]JL Audio C2-350x I'm driving a nx350h 2023[/size]
I recently completed installing the JL C2-350x speakers in the dash. Although they are indeed 3.5 inches, I can attest that in the NX350h, those speakers do not bridge the gap from each of the two 10mm bolts. I inserted one 10 mm bolt and just as others have done,used two very thin black zip ties thru the mounting hole to secure the other end of the speaker. I feel the ties do a good secure job to keep the speakers in place. I also inserted the Taramps Bass 400 subwoofer amplifier.
I believe that those dash speakers do an excellent job to transform the boring mediocre OEM dash speakers into an impressive improvement satisfying this listener, when dialing in the adjunct sub amp. The combination is very well worth the effort.
I use Qobuz as my Android Auto streamer to the OEM head uinit. The system is not shrill , the silk dome tweeters are smooth. Horns are crisp, snare drums snap. The significant increase in more accurate mid bass frequencies does a great job. The sub is now more audible and can actually be felt when compared to the almost non -existant sub impact without the Taramps sub amp. I can tell you that it is a matter of GIGO (garbage in garbage out) when judgie ow good a music system sounds.
The quality of the original recording and the recording engineer's goals is critical to judge a system's capabilites with good recordings. If you have a poorly recorded bland song with limited frequency range it wont sound good even on an excellent audio system. Overall, the project started by AtomicLexus is rewarding and well worth the effort . Thanks tdlfm for the JL speaker suggestion. I appreciate that this speaker has the same sensitivity as the OEM units.
They are saying that they are always striving to make the sound better both using aftermarket enclosures as well as utilizing the stock enclosure. Say to watch their youtube channel for more in-depth information.
On a side note I put in image dynamics id4 speakers in the dash on my 2016 nx. They barely fit, had to cut off a corner of the speaker mount to get the grill to close. Results are very good, I favor silk dome tweeters though. The image dynamics could use a bit more power as they don't really start to sound good until 30+ on the volume, overall I think it was a worthwhile upgrade for $60. My next test may be to install a https://store.sure-electronics.com/product/805 for 50x2 and 100x1 for the sub. I have done tests on the stock sub which is in the tailgate on my car and it does go down to 30ish hz range, but its must very very quiet and low power.
I found another solution: Hertz CBA250 powered 10" subwoofer ($299CAD). Just 4 wires.. + battery, - battery, disconnected factory sub and wired the +/- into the speaker level input of the new sub.
I installed the downfiring feet onto the sub and was originally going to downfire it.. but I think it sounds better facing up with the feet on to spread the weight of the deck cover.
I had to rip the velcro off the feet (thus the ugly adhesive residue) as it was snagging the deck cover.
I was originally going to remove the storage bin next to the battery and put it there.. however I ended up removing that big styrofoam tool insert that's just above it and putting it there.
I'm super happy with the result when combined with the Infinity 3.5" on the dash I installed earlier this week.
Adjusting the crossover on the subwoofer to remove some of the mid-bass that was being sent to it, I'm able to get some separation so that the dash are putting out the highs, the doors are doing fine for mid, and sub doing the bottom end.
Factory EQ has the highs above the midpoint 1 notch, and the mid and low is now at the center point (0).
I'm no longer envious about the Mark Levinson system.. this sounds great and is all I need.
The system is completely stealth, you cannot tell that anything had been changed out.
Thanks to this community for posting all the great ideas and reference documentation. It sure makes doing mods a lot easier.
I've had my 450h+ for 6 days now and have done:
- dash speaker upgrade
- subwoofer upgrade
- dash cam wired to mirror
- 14" touchpanel glass screen protector
- center console storage tray (they should include this from factory)
On the way is:
- black matte woodgrain covers for the center shifter area to help with the piano black
- Puddle lights
NX450h+ w/ Hertz CBA250 Powered Subwoofer
MP3 recorded using just my phone, held just above the center console. listen w/ headphones or something that can produce the bass.
Updated 3/10/2024 - added straps for safety
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I did this Hertz sub install as well. Thanks Perc for the great idea for the sub placement. I have mine there as well. I also put in 2 Hertz 4 inch dash speakers. Didn't replace the center one yet.
06-11-24, 09:50 AM
Twisted Wire and Shielding
