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The image dynamics id4 fits into the stock location, just need to cut off the one mounting tab in the lower right hand corner or the clip will not fit. I'm going to try to 3d print a longer clip so I don't have to cut it. Sounds great though, although the image dynamics need a bit more power than stock so have to raise the volume up to really hear them. I think they could really sound good with a 50x2 amp. The highs are definitely much improved with the silk dome tweeters. I think the mids in the doors are doing fine, they are able to keep up just fine with the image dynamics. For the sake of experimenting I will try to amplify the stock sub, mine is in the rear hatch and add some sound deadening, if that doesn't sound good enough i'm thinking about putting in an earthquake sws-10 shallow mount into the stock location.
Now that I upgraded the dash speakers and added in a subwoofer I'm finding the music is clearer and louder but there's a dead spot or something missing? Seems like the highs are coming from the front and the bass from the sub in the rear but the music in the middle is kind of muffled. Don't know if that makes sense...and haven't heard anyone else complain. I'm thinking of changing the front door speakers also and hope thatll fill in the sound where I'm sitting.
Now that I upgraded the dash speakers and added in a subwoofer I'm finding the music is clearer and louder but there's a dead spot or something missing? Seems like the highs are coming from the front and the bass from the sub in the rear but the music in the middle is kind of muffled. Don't know if that makes sense...and haven't heard anyone else complain. I'm thinking of changing the front door speakers also and hope thatll fill in the sound where I'm sitting.
The mids in the doors are actually pretty good IMHO. I would try lowering your crossover on the subwoofer and or the gain to see if that helps.
Is it a must to install a [size=16px]line level convertor from the signal cable before add into a new amplifier [/size]
It depends. If you use a Fosi (or similar) basic amp, yes. If you use an amp that has high level inputs like the Taramps (or similar) or most underseat type subs, no.
It depends. If you use a Fosi (or similar) basic amp, yes. If you use an amp that has high level inputs like the Taramps (or similar) or most underseat type subs, no.
Thank you I'm using a audiocontrol acm-1.300 which have it. Just to be safe I have to confirm just afraid I mess things up. Thank atomic
Some very good solutions here. Upgrading the front speakers is the best bang for your buck; but be sure your speaker fits properly. Some people ate putting good replacement speakers in, but are using the wrong size speakers. A speaker should always be securely attached. Zip tying one end is Rube Goldenberg's fool solution and will soon er than later fail and come loose and sound atrocious.
Yes, the base subwoofer is weak and adding an amplified subwoofer can provide some enhancement and sound quality to your bass and sub-bass range. Some very good solutions are presented in this thread.
Peace, goodwill and enhanced knowledge and understanding to all. Nothing is better than great sound!
To the extent its helpful, here was my auditory journey with my NX 350h. I am very, very grateful to everyone who has contributed to this thread (particularly Atomic, Midcow and Tbartman); my upgrades would not have been attempted without their guidance here. To my 71 year old ears, my upgrades have made a world of difference. I am mostly concerned with sound at highway speeds, as I do a lot of road trips. I find the car to be bit noisy, definitely more so than my previous 2008 RX. But with the upgrades, the sound is much improved and certainly acceptable. At the recommendation of Atomic early in this thread, I replaced all 3 front speakers with the Infinity speakers he suggested. I have found the highs and mids to be quite a bit better. Contrary to what Atomic recommended, I replaced the middle speaker as well with one of the Infinity's. I did not put a resistor on that speaker as he suggested, because doing so was a bit beyond my limited skills. And its a car, right? Not a set of headphones. At highway speeds, I don't expect perfect stereo separation of sound. I was also concerned that the middle speaker seems to be the principal source of sound for the phone system, and the nav system. I need those to be clear, and muting that speaker might be problematic for that reason. If Atomic is still out there and wants to jump in with further guidance on that front, I'd listen to him... All 3 of the Infinity speakers were attached using the original screws into both original screw brackets. It was a bit of a stretch, but by starting them at a slight angle they eventually righted themselves and were securely attached (no zip ties). The overall mids from the existing door speakers seemed to be quite adequate, so I am not currently tempted to mess with those. The lows, however, were quite lacking. I did not want to get into the complexity of amping the existing sub, with all the mods that would be necessary to do so. Instead, I simply added an 8" powered sub (details in a post above), wired into the rear power outlet so it would be switched on/off with the car's power. I figure if I need that outlet for something else, it is easy enough to unplug temporarily. It was difficult to figure out how to disconnect the audio input to the OEM sub, but after a bit of frustration and poking around I figured it out (details in a post above), and was able to use a spare metra connector to connect to the high level audio output that originally went to the OEM sub. This 8" sub, tucked behind the wheel well in the cargo compartment but above the cargo floor, has proven to be more than adequate to put out great low end. I am very happy with the overall results, and am also happy that I can easily put this part of the upgraded system back to stock if necessary by simply switching connectors and reconnecting the OEM sub, which remains in place but dormant. I hope that this helps others who might want to go down this road.
Thank you I'm using a audiocontrol acm-1.300 which have it. Just to be safe I have to confirm just afraid I mess things up. Thank atomic
Just connect it to the speaker level inputs. Be aware that this amp has a bit of power, 175 watts at 4 ohms. It may be easy to blow the factory subwoofer if you drive it too hard. I doubt Lexus will warranty it if that happens. Also, I assume you are using it with a hybrid and connect it to the battery with a 30a fuse in between. Enjoy.
Just connect it to the speaker level inputs. Be aware that this amp has a bit of power, 175 watts at 4 ohms. It may be easy to blow the factory subwoofer if you drive it too hard. I doubt Lexus will warranty it if that happens. Also, I assume you are using it with a hybrid and connect it to the battery with a 30a fuse in between. Enjoy.
yes I'm driving a hybrid the amp has not arrived. Will arrived next week or so. So I have been read the thread again and again hoping I have not miss any thing, thank you have been great help.
yes I'm driving a hybrid the amp has not arrived. Will arrived next week or so. So I have been read the thread again and again hoping I have not miss any thing, thank you have been great help.
Since you have not started the subwoofer project yet, for the same money as the amp you selected, you could get a self contained under-seat style subwoofer and not risk damage to the factory sub by over-powering it with that amp. Sound quality would be similar. Read through the threads. Many have done this, and very easy for the hybrid.
I replaced the middle speaker as well with one of the Infinity's. I did not put a resistor on that speaker as he suggested, because doing so was a bit beyond my limited skills. If Atomic is still out there and wants to jump in with further guidance on that front, I'd listen to him.
The reason for the resister is to reduce only the center channel volume, not eliminate it completely. The phone and map "voice" would still come through. The so called surround sound that Lexus-Pioneer uses does not work well for music for it directs far too much sound to the center only, taking away the fullness from the door mid-bass and subwoofer. Reducing the center speaker improves on the soundstage and overall quality. If you don't feel comfortable putting the resister inline, then don't. Everything will still work, and you are already enjoying major improvements with the simple speaker and sub upgrade. Just enjoy it.
I like testing all types of configurations as a challenge to maximize quality with minimal cost. Most cars, much more work in crossover designs have been necessary, often to stop the higher frequency unwanted spike and run out from door speakers left to play all frequencies but can't. The Lexus surprised me that the door speaker output was smooth and predictable, therefore not benefitting from any further changes. Some door speaker problems are impossible to fix without a genuine perimetric EQ (most claimed perimetric EQs are really just cheap EQs) for the speaker placement in the car had such severe sound cancellation nodes from the center console. Lexus did not have this problem, and was relatively easy to improve the overall sound with the dash and sub.
The reason I suggested not to change the center speaker is the simple resister fixed the problem. If you change the center without the resister, the problem still existed, but it did sound a little better with the new speaker.
I did not want to get into the complexity of amping the existing sub, with all the mods that would be necessary to do so. Instead, I simply added an 8" powered sub (details in a post above), wired into the rear power outlet so it would be switched on/off with the car's power.
Make sure your accessory plug has heavy enough gauge wire and load capability for the power requirements of your sub. I think the outlet is a 15 amp circuit. This is why most powered sub systems and larger amps require a direct to battery connection. My plug in design was for the very low power draw of the Fosi amp. At the minimum, I would change the fuse that is plugged into your sub from 20amp to perhaps 15 or even 10amp. Safety first. Class D amp power draw is need based. If you never blow the 10a fuse, all is good. If you keep blowing the fuse, you definitely need to go strait to the battery. And don't forget to include another 20a fuse at the battery connection.
07-15-24, 07:44 AM
NO zip ties to hold speakers !!!!!
