Done the centre speaker




Amp & Sub finally arrived


Using 8 awg Power cable

 

Just want to thank you all for this thread. This is the best source I could find in regards to replacing the speakers. When I just randomly googled about Mark Levinson and the 350NX (which I was in the process of getting w/o the sound upgrade..hybird).. this and tbartman's thread(elsewhere) are what Google suggested. I went with the Kicker HS10 and basically had it set up in 3 hours total using the information ya'll shared.

I would like to see what are the latest **** settings for anyone w/ the Kicker. I saw where you can basically turn off the crossover stuff. I'm actually going to be a little bit of a madman and order the speaker plug and tap my stock sub back into the Metra harness. Useless I'm sure..but I just wanted to have it active...but if it's a terrible idea, let me know.

I also upgraded the dash with a pair of JL audio c2 using the methods described in this thread. They are exceptional..they really opened up the sound. It was actually sort of a drastic improvement. Doing the same for the center.

 

What's the model of JL Audio C2's that you ordered?

 

C2 350x they are pretty good. I isolated the sound to just my dash as a test and the clarity was impressive.

They come a little short of the screw holes. But like others said, if you angle the screws 45 degrees it will pull on the metal brackets and they straighten up.

 

Thanks. I think I'm going to get the JL's, but does anyone know if the Audiofrog GS25's are a better alternative? Or would they be a bad match with the otherwise factory system?

 

As mentioned in another post , a very experienced member measured the stock speaker sensitivity to be 83 db, the frogs are 87db...its your call, but they are not a match sensitivity wise....nor are they size wise....

 

Are you adding an amp, GS25s have a higher sensitivity (89 vs 83) and can handle a lot more power up to 70 watts RMS but cost $499/pair compared to $149/pair for JL's. Both are great upgrades but I personally like the larger diameter of the JLs. 3 1/2 inches in perspective is a lot larger than 2 1/2'' and the lower frequency audio might suffer on the smaller diameter speakers. Even higher sensitivity 92 is Hertz DCX 87.3 Dieci , but the treated paper woofer might not last as well long term but are only $99/pair. High sensitivity is more important if you are using the OEM amplifier.

YMMV,
MidCow3

 

Wasn't planning on adding an amp due to the extra installation complexity and cost needed beyond the other simple plug-and-play upgrades which everyone indicates make a pretty big difference on their own. Seems like JL Audio C2-350x is the consensus best choice for corner dash speakers if not doing an amp and/or new door speakers. Are "bass blockers" needed for these or are they fine without?

Now, for improving the subwoofer on a gas-powered NX without running power wires to the battery in the front -- what's the best choice for sound quality between the below? I'm assuming option #3, but wanted to confirm with the resident subject matter experts:

1. Fosi M04 mini subwoofer amp and stock non-ML subwoofer, mini amp powered via cargo 12V accessory outlet
2. H YANKA SODA-08ASW (or similar) 8-inch powered sub, powered via cargo 12V accessory outlet
3. Kicker 46HS10 10-inch powered sub, powered via cargo 12V accessory outlet
4. Not sure if this is even an option, but I wonder if the larger sub from the ML system could be ordered and installed in place of the regular system subwoofer (and given extra power if needed via Fosi M04 or similar)?

 

Only the box of the ML subwoofer is bigger, the driver is the same (see pics earlier). A big difference however, is that the ML sub gets more power from the amplifier. At the non-ML system only reduced power goes to the subwoofer (that's why you need Fosi). Cargo accessory outlet is unsuitable for big amps, power cable recommendation for a normal (200...500W) amplifier at 15ft is AWG 6-8: the OEM outlet wire is much more thinner. (Thin cable softens the bass and deteriorates the dynamics.) But this outlet is enough for to drive the 50W OEM sub with Fosi, or with other low powered amps.

 

Ok, so scratch option #4. Out of the others, is #3 going to be the best quality without running wires up to the engine bay battery?

 

Just wanted to first say how grateful we all should be for this extensive thread - thank you all who have continued contributing and helping out the community.

I just came to the Lexus world from BMW and as everyone else disappointed with the non-ML sound.


I'd like to do the

1. Fosi M04 mini subwoofer amp and stock non-ML subwoofer, mini amp powered via cargo 12V accessory outlet

Method but would like to see if anyone has a step by step installation guide? thats a bit better put together then following 20 pages

I don't know where to start on how to connect everything as I don't know how to I would tap into the factory sub. I see some found adapters to not splice into the factory wiring etc.

I like to DIY - but audio stuff I never messed with but not afraid to try.

Any help? Thanks gain - I love this thread and wish I was ballsy enough to do the powered sub - but I got gas model and don't want to run wires to the front as I have warranty

 

A previous post indicated sensitivity is more important, but the main issue is that you want to match or come as close as possible to the speakers sensitivity designed for the system.... You are asking the "subject matter experts" , a few are experts, but some have more "hands on " experience than others.
A mis-match of dash speakers sensitivity vs the front door speakers sensitivity is not going to be optimized for audio balance as originally designed by the manufacturer.... not always wise to listen to folks that are not understanding of audio . Some posters here have not modified or heard the better quality speakers being discussed here but post because they , like to post.... Use your best judgement. Just my not so humble opinion. The stock/OEM amp for the front and door speakers is sufficient. Keep your replacement speakers the same sensitiivity and you are gonna be fine. Many here are fine w a sensitivity mis-match and sounds good enough.... everyone has a choice...

 

Just a quick note..on a majority of the dash speakers including the JL's I bought..they have built in frequency filtering(it's in the product description)..so you don't need bass blockers. Also, from my experience..just the two side dash speakers being upgraded was a significant change. I replaced my center also, but it wasn't as noticeable improvement. Running power to an amp from the engine isn't as scary as people think..lol..I've done it on two cars I had and any decent installer can hide the wire run.

BTW..I reconnected my stock sub in parallel with the new sub and maybe it’s a bit of a psych but I prefer it this way. I used the alliexpress Toyota plug posted earlier to split off the signal from the Metra harness.

 

I plan on installing the JL Audio C2’s for corner dash speakers within the next few days. Before you did the center dash speaker, did you feel the need to attenuate it via a resistor like some other posters have done? How much did swapping center stock for JL help?

 

The center is messed with by the stock system, there is eq and time alignment stuff going on there. So just unplugging it while using upgraded dash speakers makes the sound worse imho, I tried attenuating it, and don't really see a benefit. I just left it stock and plugged in and it seems to work well with the upgraded dash speakers. In a perfect world I would replace the stock stuff to have full control over the sound, but don't want to get into all that complexity and cost. The dash speaker upgrade alone was great. I managed to cram 4" image dynamics full range speakers into the stock dash locations.