[QUOTE=CJLane;

Clearly not the case with the sides. But if you really want to scratch the itch it won’t hurt. I may even recommend using a cheaper set for the center than the JL if u do.You won’t really be taking advantage of the JL’s capabilities. But having said that..there are people like me who insisted on all 3 matching..lol.[/QUOTE]

Am in agreement w CJlane, the center speaker contribution is minimal. IMO, a less expensive center speaker like those others have gone with and are happy with is a solid idea. As has been mentioned previously, the materials used in the OEM center speaker vs the improved speakers is noticeable. When you stop to consider that there is road noise when listening to music, in a blind test, i doubt most of us would be able to clearly tell the difference especially considering the background noise. A few hundred dollars spent on a $50k plus vehicle is the consideration, as AtomicLexus indicated at the get go, this is a budget improvement and its benefits are well worth the spend and effort. When was the last time you went to a restaurant and noted what was spent on dinner and drinks..... ? Just sayin....

 

Have to buy an ODB reader/customizer like the Carista in order to turn off.

Yeah, better speakers are a drop in the bucket compared to overall car price, especially for the daily quality value you’re going to get out of them. Question regarding center speaker contribution - do you listen with surround mode turned on or off in Lexus settings? With that “on” I feel like center is actually used quite a bit?

 

[QUOTE=Electric65;11787652]Have to buy an ODB reader/customizer like the Carista in order to turn off.
I did get carista but there is no selection on that are your driving nx350h or nx350?

 

Does anyone know how to turn off or disable the ANC/ASC/ESE on the 2nd Gen NX350? I installed a subwoofer but am getting engine noise through the sub every time I hit the gas. Any help is appreciated. 🙏

 

[QUOTE=1Priest;11788445]Tudja valaki, hogyan lehet kikapcsolni vagy letiltani az ANC/ASC/ESE-t a 2nd Gen NX350-en? Beépítettem egy mélysugárzót, de motorzaj hallatszik a mélysugárzón keresztül minden alkalommal, amikor megnyomom a gázt. Minden segítséget nagyra értékelünk. 🙏[/QUOTE
]It is important to keep distance between the 12v power cable and the input signal cable. Must not be run in parallel. If this is not the problem, check the grounds of input.

 

XNX350X helped me figure it out. It was the ANC/ESE feature that has to be disabled. It's the center plug on the Lexus OEM amplifier located under (within) the center console in between the front seats of the car. It's actually a feature called ESE (Engine Sound Enhancement) which is in addition to the ANC feature both located in the same plug and successfully disabled when unplugging it. I didn't even disassemble the console. I referenced these pictures and stuck my hand under the trim on the drivers side and felt around carefully. Once I located the amp, I made sure to feel around and count the three harnesses plugs and confirm cables were connected to them and once my hands were back on the center plug, with a little effort I was able to push the tab down and pull out the harness. Then slowly pulled my hand out. I suspect with some patience I could reach my hand back in there and plug it back into the amp if ever needed to. The pictures below will give you an idea of what I did and it was the exact same procedure in my previous 7th Gen ES350 F-Sport2 with ML amp with unplugging the center plug to disable ANC and AES. Works on most current model Lexus amps I believe. Don't quote me on that one but so far 2 vehicles confirmed. Thank you XNX350X 🙏 You made my day brother 💯

*This picture is not mine and it's from this thread and shows the amp plug location in question.
Hope this helps someone 🤞


1) Factory Lexus OEM Base Sound Package Amplifier ANC/ESE Plug. Yours will be plugged in and this picture shows it unplugged.
2) Where I stuck my hand in carefully under the center console trim.
3) Corner of Lexus foot mat showing that the plug is physically located directly above it as a reference point as to where to stick your hand in.

 

What’s correct wiring for the Fosi subwoofer amp upgrade?

Cigarette lighter adapter -> splice to barrel connector to power Fosi.

Male plug previously going into sub from factory harness -> female Metra speaker adapter -> splice into line level converter -> RCA cables into Fosi amp RCA terminals?

Male Aliexpress connector -> subwoofer plug and run the wires coming from aliexpress adapter -> speaker wire terminals on the Fosi?

I have a brown chassis ground wire on my line level converter that says optional -- would you suggest running this to a ground?

I hooked my Fosi up according to the above, and I'm getting a popping noise from the sub whenever the vehicle turns on or off -- is this expected behavior?

 

Any chance you have pics to go with those steps? You would be a hero if you did! PLEASE! lol

 

No pics, sorry. But those are the steps I took to wire up mine. Does everyone else who has the Fosi amp get the popping noise when turning the car on/off?

 

Yes. Yes. Yes. Yes (apparently one yes was too short for this forum rules)

 

Thanks for confirming... Don't think it's worth keeping this Fios amp with the popping noise every time car turns on and off. Going to try upgrading to the Kicker 46HS10 all-in-one 180W max (with power for it still coming from the 12V cigarette lighter socket) and see how that goes. With a 15AMP fuse in-line between the amp and the 12V socket, the fuse should blow in the event the power draw is too high, right? Am I missing any other reason not to do this?

 

In home stereo, the significance of correct/optimal cabling is important. The contents of the subwoofer thread have included info not to wire up your future sub as you are thinking of doing. Both quality of sound and more importantly safety is a big concern.....melted wiring, fuses that may not be fast enough,etc etc. If big bass sound is your goal, running the appropriate gauge wiring from the 12v battery is the only reasonable way to go.....safety wise....

 

Argh.. Ok, I'll use the 12V cargo socket at least temporarily then to get things set up and try to come up with a better long-term plan. It looks like the power wire the subwoofer comes with is 12 gauge or so -- think that is thick enough to run up to the battery in engine bay, or should I splice that into a lower gauge wire? Amp in the Kicker 46HS10 is listed as 180W. Crutchfield's amp wire gauge chart seems to indicate it would be fine using the power wire that came with the subwoofer

How long did it take you to run the power wire from trunk to engine bay on the NX? What's the best route to take and did you go up on driver or passenger side? Not scared of DIY, but I dread pulling apart so much of the interior on a new car. Also not sure which hole in firewall is best to use?

 

I ran on passenger side and drilled a hole with a step up bit to install a water/moisture proof grommet for my 0 gauge power cable run. Had to remove glove box but it was pretty easy and glad I did it this way. No factory grommets cut. I can post more pictures if you need my friend. Hope this helps. 🤞


Interior behind glove box

Engine Bay Side

 

Are you sure you are using 0/1 gauge cable and if s so why? That is way too big of a cable. A 0 gauge cable, also known as 1/0 AWG, has a diameter of 0.324861 inches or 8.252 millimeters

At 75°C, 1/0 copper wire can handle 150 amps with common insulation types like THHN/THWN-2 and RHW. At 90°C, 1/0 copper wire can handle 170 amps with XHHW-2 or USE insulation.

A 12 gauge cable is what you should probably have installed.


The recommended cable size for powered subwoofers in cars depends on the subwoofer's wattage and the length of the wire run:
Wattage Recommended cable size Up to 1,000 watts RMS 16-gauge speaker wire More than 1,000 watts RMS 12-gauge speaker wire High-power amplifier with multiple subwoofers 10 or 8 AWG speaker wire You can also consider the length of the wire run:

• Up to 15 feet: 16-gauge wire
• Up to 25 feet: 14-gauge wire
• Up to 35 feet: 12-gauge wire

When wiring a subwoofer, it's recommended to order twice as much wire as you think you need. This gives you extra length in case you need to adjust the position of the subwoofer or amplifier.

YMMV,
MidCow3