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Just to clarify, it is the Metra 72-8109 Speaker Wiring Adapters, and they are used for the sub and dash speakers. I did not take apart the doors, so I'm not sure which connector is used there.
Does the wire length matter, or is 10cm sufficient? There's options for 10, 15 and 20cm.
It does not matter since you need to splice it to another wire anyway. I like the longer one for it's easier to work with. You only need one for the sub, but they are sold in pairs.
@AtomicLexus I'm on the phone with Crutchfield. They are telling me the JL Audio C2-350x speakers will NOT fit. They are too tall. So I'm getting Kicker 47KSC3504's. The only difference is the Cones are silk and they have rubber and not foam.
They also say the Metra 72-8109 adapters will NOT fit my car. She even put me on hold and asked Technical. They say they can ONLY provide the Metra 72-7902 as that is what fits my make and model. So I'm not sure if the 450H+ is different from a 350H but this is what they are saying. I think I'll let them give me the 72-7902's and order the 72-8109's. The last thing I want to do is get it apart and can't finish because I can't connect them.
Crutchfield really attempts to do right, but in this case, as you WILL discover, they are wrong on the connectors. I spent needless hours with their tech department regarding the OC mounting hole issues. I found that you can still mount the speakers without modification using the factory clips, but you need to do it carefully. My photo proves it. Shame there is no perfect drop in replacement, but that too is intentional.
The JL Audio speakers may require a bit of careful Dremel tooling on the inside of the speaker cover to clear the tweets. I was going by sound quality and they do sound smoother. However, you won't be disappointed with the Kickers. If it's too bright, a small piece of foam under the grill over the tweets calms it down. You can always turn the treble down too. The Kickers offer excellent value. Anyways, our high frequency hearing declines with age, so I kind of like the extra brightness.
Thank you, just ordered everything, came out to right around $100.
I thought I would share these cool taps that you can use for the 12v power. For $8, it saves a lot of aggravation.
Posi-tap Connectors, 12-18 Gauge Wire, Pack of 5.
I thought I would share these cool taps that you can use for the 12v power. For $8, it saves a lot of aggravation.
Posi-tap Connectors, 12-18 Gauge Wire, Pack of 5. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00389RUEO...roduct_details
Unless of course you have a hybrid, which case the power is right there and no need to tap the 12v accessory power.
Thank you. Is there anything else I need (or would make life easier) for my 350 gasoline? 😂
And since I am at it, if you use the $50 sub amp from Fosi that I noted, it needs an impossible to find 5.5 x 2.5 cable. This is the ONLY one I was able to find. I kept ordering others and they lied, all were the 5.5 x 2.1 that will not fit.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09JKNRHBZ...t_details&th=1
Amazon GINTOOYUN 2 Pack DC Power Pigtails Cable, DC 5.5mm x 2.5mm Male Plug Jack to Bare Wire Open End Power Supply Replacement Repair Cord, for Security Camera,LED Strip Light,DVR 3FT (black-1m)
@AtomicLexus Does this cable go straight to the 12v battery in the back of a hybrid? No need to add a fuse?
Last edited by GoLeafsGo; 08-21-23 at 07:22 AM.
Reason: address the question to OP
I thought I would share these cool taps that you can use for the 12v power. For $8, it saves a lot of aggravation.
Posi-tap Connectors, 12-18 Gauge Wire, Pack of 5. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00389RUEO...roduct_details
Unless of course you have a hybrid, which case the power is right there and no need to tap the 12v accessory power.
Just curious, the first step in the guide is to disconnect the negative side of the battery. Is this necessary?
So this was one of the questions I asked myself when I started assessing how to do the installation DIY. Whether you're doing the Kicker 46hs10 or the $50 AMP + misc items solution Atomic shared, you're still messing with the electrical system of your Luxury vehicle. The fact that you asked this question should give you reason for pause, it did for me.
I so wanted to make it a DIY project to get the satisfaction. After a few hours of research to find what I should buy, plus the time taking the car apart, also asking myself what-if questions, I just paid $150 to have a professional install the Kicker 46hs10. I'm in my 40s with lots of responsibilities and bought a Lexus....... the time saved and peace of mind were worth it to me. No knock on anyone that did the install themselves.
The other question you should ask your self, how much improvement do you want from your sound system, and which do you think will maximize that improvement in a price range you can afford?
@AtomicLexus Does this cable go straight to the 12v battery in the back of a hybrid? No need to add a fuse?
It should absolutely be fused if going to the battery. If going to the accessory outlet, there is already a fuse there, but another one would not hurt. 5-10amp should be fine.
FYI, from the low level convertor to the amp only needs 1 wire. Leave the other side unused. Use as short as possible (3 ft is good) and an old yellow RCA video cord from the VCR days is perfect if you have it. They are heavily shielded and larger gauge wire, although a standard RCA cord will work fine too.
So this was one of the questions I asked myself when I started assessing how to do the installation DIY. Whether you're doing the Kicker 46hs10 or the $50 AMP + misc items solution Atomic shared, you're still messing with the electrical system of your Luxury vehicle. The fact that you asked this question should give you reason for pause, it did for me.
I so wanted to make it a DIY project to get the satisfaction. After a few hours of research to find what I should buy, plus the time taking the car apart, also asking myself what-if questions, I just paid $150 to have a professional install the Kicker 46hs10. I'm in my 40s with lots of responsibilities and bought a Lexus....... the time saved and peace of mind were worth it to me. No knock on anyone that did the install themselves.
The other question you should ask your self, how much improvement do you want from your sound system, and which do you think will maximize that improvement in a price range you can afford?
Wise comment. If you're not comfortable doing changes, perhaps it is better to leave as is. As for "audio professionals", I have found in general the workmanship shoddy and goal is upselling unnecessary items for more money, without any real advantages. That is why my goal was "most bang for the buck". Perhaps I should have added with the least changes to the car, for none of my suggestions are destructive and can all be reversed by unplugging and replacing the old speakers. These changes are more for the DYI that enjoys modifications that are noticeable and economical. If that is not you, then the smart path is none. I would never trust an "audio professional" from any store to touch my car. I really don't even trust the dealer. They also don't care and often break other things or do shoddy work. IMHO.
And for those that want to not tap into power, there are 12v accessory plugs (must have 16ga wire, not thinner) that you can connect to aforementioned power plug. This one is from Temu (I could not find a 16ga one from Amazon for all the ones they sent had too thin of wires.) Just plug this in and run the wire into the gas cover release opening and down into the subwoofer area. It may stick out a little, but no tapping into power either. Easy peasy.
08-20-23, 07:41 PM
