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If I wire the amp directly to my battery (Hybrid) , it will be "always on" correct? That might be an advantage to finding a switched 12V source (e.g. the cigarette lighter).....
Just piping in - not sure if you're talking about an amp or a powered sub. Most powered subs will turn themselves on and off based either on a 12V signal (in which case the cigarette lighter powering up and down with the car would work) or based on a signal on the speaker wire (which is how I have mine set - so when the head unit turns off, the sub turns off after 30s).
I'll also add, for those figuring out how to get better bass in these cars ... putting in a better speaker is always going to be a better bang for the buck than having an awesome amplifier and s&^t speakers. In my home system, I have a $300 amp and $2000 speakers, and it sounds amazing. Running a $2000 amp through $300 speakers would suck.
I'm using the stock amp (I have the 14" infotainment system) but putting in a $300 powered sub (disconnecting the stock sub entirely) and $100-worth of replacement corner dash speakers is night-and-day better, and I didn't have to do anything destructive to any of the wiring in the car.
Just finished Removing Factory Front Corner Dash Speakers and Installed Kicker KSC350's. It was a lot easer than I anticipated. Popping the grilles off wasn't difficult at all. There was no way I could get the second hold down screw to line up. Thought about cutting a small piece of aluminum to use as a bridge but took the easy way and used a Zip Tie instead. Here are Left and Right photos.
Left or Driver side before doing anything. Right or Passenger side before doing anything.
Left all taped up. But the tape won't stick to the dash. Right all taped up.
Left side Factory speaker upon removing grille.
Left speaker grille upside down to show only 2 fastener type clips. The three at the top are just guides. Right speaker grille upside down to show only 2 fastener type clips. The two at the top are just guides.
Left wire harness removed. It does NOT accept the Metra 72-7902 Speaker Wiring Adapters. Thank God I purchased a set of the Metra 72-8109 like specified in this forum. Left wire harness removed. It does NOT accept the Metra 72-7902 Speaker Wiring Adapters. Thank God I purchased a set of the Metra 72-8109 like specified in this forum.
Comparison of the speakers. I can see now why the mounting holes on the Kicker speaker doesn't fit. The Factory speakers have ginormous tabs. Height comparison between the two speakers. The Kicker is a smidge taller. Crutchfield said it was too tall and wouldn't fit. They fit nicely except for the mounting holes. An adpater ring would nave been nice.
Left Kicker speaker installed ready to place the grille back on. Right Kicker speaker installed ready to place the grille back on.
They sound a lot better. with and without the hearing aids. Glad I took the chance and installed these. I just may do the Subwoofer next. I'm having an issue with the cost of that thing. Anyway, THANKS to everyone who posted and provided the great guidance and support. You all made this easier then I imagined it would be.
Just finished Removing Factory Front Corner Dash Speakers and Installed Kicker KSC350's. It was a lot easer than I anticipated. Popping the grilles off wasn't difficult at all. There was no way I could get the second hold down screw to line up. Thought about cutting a small piece of aluminum to use as a bridge but took the easy way and used a Zip Tie instead. Here are Left and Right photos.
LOL! I was afraid to admit it here, but I used zip ties too (or did I reveal that? I can't remember)
With just the one screw, the speaker barely moves at all, so I figured a tight zip tie would suffice to bridge that very short gap on the other side. I used Kenwood speakers, so my guess is that it's Lexus that has the funky spacing, not Kicker or Kenwood. Why can't they just follow the rules!
Thanks for the pictures. Looking forward to replacing my front dash speakers this weekend.
@tundotcom I was scared of screwing the dashboard up. I almost didn't do it because of that. But it was way easier than I expected. I used the orange trim tool and the Left popped off easy. The Right required a little more force but popped off. Putting them back was easy as well. It's getting the zip tie on in the screw hole and the speaker hole that was difficult. Once I learned on the Left, the Right was simple. But you can do it.
Just installed the Infinity Reference REF-3032CFX, with the bass blocker. Not hearing much of an improvement . Did I made a mistake using the bass blocker?
Just installed the Infinity Reference REF-3032CFX, with the bass blocker. Not hearing much of an improvement . Did I made a mistake using the bass blocker?
Sorry, what's a bass blocker?
Those speakers are rated down to 85hz, so there's no good bass coming from them, if that's what you wanted. Obviously, when I replaced my corner dash speakers it was the mid and high frequencies that were much improved.
Those speakers are rated down to 85hz, so there's no good bass coming from them, if that's what you wanted. Obviously, when I replaced my corner dash speakers it was the mid and high frequencies that were much improved.
The speakers came with capacitors (I.e. bass blocker) that you can solder in-line on the positive lead to block low frequencies. Suppose to lower distortion. I wonder if these speakers need time for them to break-in before they will sound better?
I wonder if these speakers need time for them to break-in before they will sound better?
All speakers have a break-in period in some cases they sound pretty bad out of the box. I've experimented with varying the crossover point (including to 3.5" speakers) I've found there isn't much difference between feeding them full range and chopping off the low end. Seems like the speaker is more efficient with the bottom end removed but it's subtle.
The speakers came with capacitors (I.e. bass blocker) that you can solder in-line on the positive lead to block low frequencies. Suppose to lower distortion. I wonder if these speakers need time for them to break-in before they will sound better?
They are supposed to block anything below ~200Hz (basically taking out the 85-200Hz range). I think the idea is that if you already have a big sub-woofer already well handling the 20-200Hz range, why try to force a little 3.5" speaker from trying to work at its limit also pushing the lower frequencies, just block them and focus on mid/upper frequencies and let the subwoofer do its thing. In my case, I chose not to install these immediately. I wanted to hear how they sound without them as at the time I wasn't sure if I was going ahead with subwoofer mods and bass (as mentioned plenty here) in the stock system is poor. I found at low volume settings there isn't a whole lot of difference compared with the stock speakers, but as the volume goes up I do notice a lot more midrange clarity (or presence I guess other people call it). However, I do notice a bit nicer mid-bass response too which was a pleasant outcome. However, I have decided I will go ahead with a subwoofer mod too, so I may revisit this option for the new dash speakers once I get that sorted out and see how it sounds.
Installed my Infinity Reference REF-3032CFX speakers today. Thanks to @Droid13@SgtLip@AtomicLexus and others for their help. Getting the speaker grilles off was the hardest part for me. The passenger side one in particular is hindered by the A pillar cover, so I really had to yank it out. I ended up leaving a mark on the A pillar fabric on both sides but I don't care too much about that.
The rest of the installation was pretty easy. All the advice was spot on. 10mm combination wrench to crack the screws loose and carefully remove by hand. Metra 72-8109 is indeed the correct cable. The black and white ends are different sizes so there should be no mistaking where to clip them onto the speaker end. Inserting the screws at a 45 degree angle at first and then slowly tightening them down worked like a charm.
If you're a complete newbie like me, you can definitely do it on your own with the information in this thread. The speakers sound much better than the OEM Pioneer speakers but as mentioned before, the weak bass is definitely more noticeable now.
The last part for the subwoofer amp install from AliExpress arrives today, but now I need to wait for one of you guys to take pics of the entire process before I attempt it on my own.
edit: everything has arrived. Anything I am missing?
I just ordered some connectors. I think I have identified the connectors for the harness that powers the 12V outlet in the trunk. It wasn't too hard to reach past the fuel door release lever and disconnect the connector to the power port so I was able to look at it. I ordered what I think are matching male and female connectors so I will make my own extension power cable that will connect between the existing harness and 12V power port but add a new set of wires to power the subamp. Hopefully this will allow me to complete the upgrade continuing the goal of zero appearance change and zero effect on factory wiring. I'll confirm once I get them...
In the process, I think I now understand now why the lonely and crappy little screwdriver. To open the flap covering the fuel door release lever.
Getting the speaker grilles off was the hardest part for me. The passenger side one in particular is hindered by the A pillar cover, so I really had to yank it out. I ended up leaving a mark on the A pillar fabric.
Blue protection tape over the A pillars will minimize any damage. And yes, they are a bear to get off. If I had a service manual, it likely has you remove the A pillar cover first, but since the airbag is in there and I don't have the factory instructions for the clip locations, I think it better to not mess around in there.
Glad to see you were able to use the clips to hold the speakers in place vs the zip tie method. I did the same.
I assume you don't have a hybrid, so you need to tap into the 12v accessory outlet. I did the same going through the fuel lid port. Those little black connectors on the bottom left of your photo work really well. I taped it after making the connection so it could never work loose. I also added plastic conduit around the power wires and completed taped over that. This was the hardest part of the entire installation. The hybrid people have it too easy with the battery right there. I could not find the male female matching connector for the outlet. If you do find it, share the link for others.
08-23-23, 07:38 AM
Glad I took the chance and installed these. I just may do the Subwoofer next. I'm having an issue with the cost of that thing. Anyway, THANKS to everyone who posted and provided the great guidance and support. You all made this easier then I imagined it would be.
. Did I made a mistake using the bass blocker?
