12V battery voltage drops, is it normal???
05-30-24, 05:32 AM
#16
https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/m...-0113007p.html
Should have something similar on Amazon. I found 2 of them and have them in my Amazon list. You can go to the Amazon page and find them under Car Products.
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websurfer (05-30-24)
05-30-24, 06:13 AM
#17
The following users liked this post:
websurfer (05-30-24)
05-30-24, 07:38 AM
#18
Racer
Thread Starter
That was bought in the local automotive shop in Canada.
https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/m...-0113007p.html
Should have something similar on Amazon. I found 2 of them and have them in my Amazon list. You can go to the Amazon page and find them under Car Products.
https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/m...-0113007p.html
Should have something similar on Amazon. I found 2 of them and have them in my Amazon list. You can go to the Amazon page and find them under Car Products.
05-30-24, 09:10 AM
#19
Racer
Thread Starter
I'll just monitor the 12V battery for now. It was 12.15V yesterday night.
I didn't find the exact power monitor but found one similar on Amazon (In US):
I didn't find the exact power monitor but found one similar on Amazon (In US):
05-30-24, 12:17 PM
#20
Prevention ? Fixing the Problem/s ? ''> Find then FIX
Okay, I got it you are not BSEE or problem solvers ...that is okay // Let me try to add some perspective directed to a solution
DETECTION ONLY Right now most of you are measuring voltage. This is just detection and does nothing to solve the problem. And I think anyone on this thread has come up with a defined criteria that truly indicates a problem ...much less how critical the problem is. yes, if you have a 2 or 3 volt drop from 12.5 or 14.5 vols or your starting point is probably a critical problem.
SOLVING - find the current in different circuits ( which are active when car is stopped and sitting or when you have accessories, etc. on Possibly work on fuse boxes and pull fuses or much , much better get a current probe diagnostic device that can detect in circuit current. you should probably get a shop level circuit schematic so you ca specifically identify what devices are on a particular parasite circuit.
IDENTIFY You need to identify what is causing the voltage drop by putting unexpected load on the battery. FIXING Once identified you see if there are options to turn off or option the devices different.
So you first (1) identify the problem by finding which circuit or sub-circuit is drawing current. a mimical deterministic method employed by pseudo forum Electrical Engineers ( @websurfer you are exempt
) is to measure voltage. a better method is to use the fuse boxes and a specific shop manual circuit diagrams along with a a diagnostic circuit current probe to identify the specific circuits/subcircuits which are drawing current and how much current. (2) make changes to the offending circuit to turn off or option to lower current draw or in some cases except the current draw ( e.g. flashing red dash security light and security circuit). Especially look if you have added devices such as security systems and security cameras. Are they always on or can you make them come on to full voltage/current only when an incident is actively detected. ( obviously detection part need to be on all the time). Also any other added devices that should only be on when car is on , e.g. radar detector, make sure they are not always on.
In summary, most battery problems appear to be mainly from parasite devices/circuits. (1) find parasite devices/circuits (2) reconfigure or remove and reduce parasite usage ---> then youe battery voltage detector will always read good
YMMV,
MidCow3
DETECTION ONLY Right now most of you are measuring voltage. This is just detection and does nothing to solve the problem. And I think anyone on this thread has come up with a defined criteria that truly indicates a problem ...much less how critical the problem is. yes, if you have a 2 or 3 volt drop from 12.5 or 14.5 vols or your starting point is probably a critical problem.
SOLVING - find the current in different circuits ( which are active when car is stopped and sitting or when you have accessories, etc. on Possibly work on fuse boxes and pull fuses or much , much better get a current probe diagnostic device that can detect in circuit current. you should probably get a shop level circuit schematic so you ca specifically identify what devices are on a particular parasite circuit.
IDENTIFY You need to identify what is causing the voltage drop by putting unexpected load on the battery. FIXING Once identified you see if there are options to turn off or option the devices different.
So you first (1) identify the problem by finding which circuit or sub-circuit is drawing current. a mimical deterministic method employed by pseudo forum Electrical Engineers ( @websurfer you are exempt
) is to measure voltage. a better method is to use the fuse boxes and a specific shop manual circuit diagrams along with a a diagnostic circuit current probe to identify the specific circuits/subcircuits which are drawing current and how much current. (2) make changes to the offending circuit to turn off or option to lower current draw or in some cases except the current draw ( e.g. flashing red dash security light and security circuit). Especially look if you have added devices such as security systems and security cameras. Are they always on or can you make them come on to full voltage/current only when an incident is actively detected. ( obviously detection part need to be on all the time). Also any other added devices that should only be on when car is on , e.g. radar detector, make sure they are not always on.In summary, most battery problems appear to be mainly from parasite devices/circuits. (1) find parasite devices/circuits (2) reconfigure or remove and reduce parasite usage ---> then youe battery voltage detector will always read good
YMMV,
MidCow3
Last edited by midcow3; 05-30-24 at 12:27 PM.
05-30-24, 12:56 PM
#21
I'll just monitor the 12V battery for now. It was 12.15V yesterday night.
I didn't find the exact power monitor but found one similar on Amazon (In US):
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EVWDU0...lig_dp_it&th=1
I didn't find the exact power monitor but found one similar on Amazon (In US):
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EVWDU0...lig_dp_it&th=1
05-30-24, 12:58 PM
#22
Okay, I got it you are not BSEE or problem solvers ...that is okay // Let me try to add some perspective directed to a solution
DETECTION ONLY Right now most of you are measuring voltage. This is just detection and does nothing to solve the problem. And I think anyone on this thread has come up with a defined criteria that truly indicates a problem ...much less how critical the problem is. yes, if you have a 2 or 3 volt drop from 12.5 or 14.5 vols or your starting point is probably a critical problem.
SOLVING - find the current in different circuits ( which are active when car is stopped and sitting or when you have accessories, etc. on Possibly work on fuse boxes and pull fuses or much , much better get a current probe diagnostic device that can detect in circuit current. you should probably get a shop level circuit schematic so you ca specifically identify what devices are on a particular parasite circuit.
IDENTIFY You need to identify what is causing the voltage drop by putting unexpected load on the battery. FIXING Once identified you see if there are options to turn off or option the devices different.
So you first (1) identify the problem by finding which circuit or sub-circuit is drawing current. a mimical deterministic method employed by pseudo forum Electrical Engineers ( @websurfer you are exempt ) is to measure voltage. a better method is to use the fuse boxes and a specific shop manual circuit diagrams along with a a diagnostic circuit current probe to identify the specific circuits/subcircuits which are drawing current and how much current. (2) make changes to the offending circuit to turn off or option to lower current draw or in some cases except the current draw ( e.g. flashing red dash security light and security circuit). Especially look if you have added devices such as security systems and security cameras. Are they always on or can you make them come on to full voltage/current only when an incident is actively detected. ( obviously detection part need to be on all the time). Also any other added devices that should only be on when car is on , e.g. radar detector, make sure they are not always on.
In summary, most battery problems appear to be mainly from parasite devices/circuits. (1) find parasite devices/circuits (2) reconfigure or remove and reduce parasite usage ---> then youe battery voltage detector will always read good
YMMV,
MidCow3
DETECTION ONLY Right now most of you are measuring voltage. This is just detection and does nothing to solve the problem. And I think anyone on this thread has come up with a defined criteria that truly indicates a problem ...much less how critical the problem is. yes, if you have a 2 or 3 volt drop from 12.5 or 14.5 vols or your starting point is probably a critical problem.
SOLVING - find the current in different circuits ( which are active when car is stopped and sitting or when you have accessories, etc. on Possibly work on fuse boxes and pull fuses or much , much better get a current probe diagnostic device that can detect in circuit current. you should probably get a shop level circuit schematic so you ca specifically identify what devices are on a particular parasite circuit.
IDENTIFY You need to identify what is causing the voltage drop by putting unexpected load on the battery. FIXING Once identified you see if there are options to turn off or option the devices different.
So you first (1) identify the problem by finding which circuit or sub-circuit is drawing current. a mimical deterministic method employed by pseudo forum Electrical Engineers ( @websurfer you are exempt
) is to measure voltage. a better method is to use the fuse boxes and a specific shop manual circuit diagrams along with a a diagnostic circuit current probe to identify the specific circuits/subcircuits which are drawing current and how much current. (2) make changes to the offending circuit to turn off or option to lower current draw or in some cases except the current draw ( e.g. flashing red dash security light and security circuit). Especially look if you have added devices such as security systems and security cameras. Are they always on or can you make them come on to full voltage/current only when an incident is actively detected. ( obviously detection part need to be on all the time). Also any other added devices that should only be on when car is on , e.g. radar detector, make sure they are not always on.In summary, most battery problems appear to be mainly from parasite devices/circuits. (1) find parasite devices/circuits (2) reconfigure or remove and reduce parasite usage ---> then youe battery voltage detector will always read good
YMMV,
MidCow3
05-30-24, 09:25 PM
#23
Racer
Thread Starter
Okay, I got it you are not BSEE or problem solvers ...that is okay // Let me try to add some perspective directed to a solution
DETECTION ONLY Right now most of you are measuring voltage. This is just detection and does nothing to solve the problem. And I think anyone on this thread has come up with a defined criteria that truly indicates a problem ...much less how critical the problem is. yes, if you have a 2 or 3 volt drop from 12.5 or 14.5 vols or your starting point is probably a critical problem.
SOLVING - find the current in different circuits ( which are active when car is stopped and sitting or when you have accessories, etc. on Possibly work on fuse boxes and pull fuses or much , much better get a current probe diagnostic device that can detect in circuit current. you should probably get a shop level circuit schematic so you ca specifically identify what devices are on a particular parasite circuit.
IDENTIFY You need to identify what is causing the voltage drop by putting unexpected load on the battery. FIXING Once identified you see if there are options to turn off or option the devices different.
So you first (1) identify the problem by finding which circuit or sub-circuit is drawing current. a mimical deterministic method employed by pseudo forum Electrical Engineers ( @websurfer you are exempt ) is to measure voltage. a better method is to use the fuse boxes and a specific shop manual circuit diagrams along with a a diagnostic circuit current probe to identify the specific circuits/subcircuits which are drawing current and how much current. (2) make changes to the offending circuit to turn off or option to lower current draw or in some cases except the current draw ( e.g. flashing red dash security light and security circuit). Especially look if you have added devices such as security systems and security cameras. Are they always on or can you make them come on to full voltage/current only when an incident is actively detected. ( obviously detection part need to be on all the time). Also any other added devices that should only be on when car is on , e.g. radar detector, make sure they are not always on.
In summary, most battery problems appear to be mainly from parasite devices/circuits. (1) find parasite devices/circuits (2) reconfigure or remove and reduce parasite usage ---> then youe battery voltage detector will always read good
YMMV,
MidCow3
DETECTION ONLY Right now most of you are measuring voltage. This is just detection and does nothing to solve the problem. And I think anyone on this thread has come up with a defined criteria that truly indicates a problem ...much less how critical the problem is. yes, if you have a 2 or 3 volt drop from 12.5 or 14.5 vols or your starting point is probably a critical problem.
SOLVING - find the current in different circuits ( which are active when car is stopped and sitting or when you have accessories, etc. on Possibly work on fuse boxes and pull fuses or much , much better get a current probe diagnostic device that can detect in circuit current. you should probably get a shop level circuit schematic so you ca specifically identify what devices are on a particular parasite circuit.
IDENTIFY You need to identify what is causing the voltage drop by putting unexpected load on the battery. FIXING Once identified you see if there are options to turn off or option the devices different.
So you first (1) identify the problem by finding which circuit or sub-circuit is drawing current. a mimical deterministic method employed by pseudo forum Electrical Engineers ( @websurfer you are exempt
) is to measure voltage. a better method is to use the fuse boxes and a specific shop manual circuit diagrams along with a a diagnostic circuit current probe to identify the specific circuits/subcircuits which are drawing current and how much current. (2) make changes to the offending circuit to turn off or option to lower current draw or in some cases except the current draw ( e.g. flashing red dash security light and security circuit). Especially look if you have added devices such as security systems and security cameras. Are they always on or can you make them come on to full voltage/current only when an incident is actively detected. ( obviously detection part need to be on all the time). Also any other added devices that should only be on when car is on , e.g. radar detector, make sure they are not always on.In summary, most battery problems appear to be mainly from parasite devices/circuits. (1) find parasite devices/circuits (2) reconfigure or remove and reduce parasite usage ---> then youe battery voltage detector will always read good
YMMV,
MidCow3
I don't have a schematic and I'm not an auto technician also. Could be just a bad battery. IMO, I think it's best to start out observing if the issue a bit more to confirm if it's a problem before spending time investigating it more.
Yes, I do have a dashcam that only goes ON when the vehicle is ON however, I had the same dashcam from another Lexus without any issues.
It's been around 12.16V after checking just now. I drove the vehicle around 100 miles today. I have a long commute and will probably get my hybrid money back sooner I guess
That appears ok at the moment, not sure why it doesn't want to hold at 12.4V before or the computer likes to maintain around 12.16V.
Thanks All.
Last edited by websurfer; 05-31-24 at 08:10 AM.
05-31-24, 10:06 AM
#24
Intermediate
With everything that must be going on in the background with these cars shut off, there's practically no way to eliminate all the parasitic draw on our 12 volt batteries. These car's are always constantly ON for certain systems, like constantly waiting for any communication from your phone app, any communication from Mother Ship Lexus that there's a software update available, the active security system when you lock your car, heck even just actively searching for cell or wifi service to allow communication, etc. Quite simply Lexus won't let you turn these systems off completely. One way only, pull off your hard wired post connector of your 12 volt battery so it doesn't have any opportunity to draw. Now if you do that most likely your vehicle will lose all your personalized settings etc. That's why older 'dumber' vehicles are able to sit for months without their 12 volt dying on you.
I live in Ontario Canada and have a '22 350h. My original battery was struggling to maintain a charge since the moment I took delivery, constantly measuring only 11.8 to 12.2 volts max when the car was off. When your readings are that low your battery's health is not good, it will have been degraded sufficiently that it is no longer able to 'hold' a full charge. My dealer tested and confirmed my battery was bad and replaced with an AGM (Absorbed Glass Mat) 600 cold cranking amp rated Lexus battery (yes I know Lexus doesn't make batteries). This size battery is larger than my original 530 CCA. I now have an Ancel battery monitor:
that I hooked up and this larger AGM battery still drops voltage when parked by about 0.05 to 0.1 volts over a 24 hour period since my original battery was replaced.
I also have bought a Noco battery trickle charger and use it almost every time I'm not going to drive it for a day or more. I've left the car sit for 2-3 days without using the trickle charger on it and it drops around to 0.2 - 0.3 volts which is significant.
Similar to other's findings, I can drive the car for short trips almost everyday, say 10 - 20 miles, and the car struggles to fully recharge the 12 volt to say 12.7 - 12.8 volts. This will obviously lead to the battery degrading over time and reduce it's life if not fully recharged.
This unfortunately is how Lexus has designed their 12 volt battery infrastructure. I recently heard in a video review that mentioned (Hyundai?) allows their large 'traction' battery to charge their 12 volt battery if it starts to drop in voltage. This would certainly go along way if Lexus would allow the same thing, which it currently isn't setup to do. I have noticed that the battery monitor and my little 12 volt accessory plug in voltmeter show readings up to 14.3 volts in the 12 volt system when the car is running yet the battery doesn't seem to get a good recharge. I assume there's so much 12 volt rated equipment powered up that little amperage is going to recharge the battery itself.
My 2 cents, buy a trickle charger and use it regularly, you won't do any harm in leaving it on for any length of time, and if you get one that has a display or reading it will help let you know if battery is healthy (green led) like the Noco I bought. And yes, it's a pain in the *** having to connect it every time you walk away from your car. I've taken to doing this only every few days as I now know how fast the battery discharges.
I live in Ontario Canada and have a '22 350h. My original battery was struggling to maintain a charge since the moment I took delivery, constantly measuring only 11.8 to 12.2 volts max when the car was off. When your readings are that low your battery's health is not good, it will have been degraded sufficiently that it is no longer able to 'hold' a full charge. My dealer tested and confirmed my battery was bad and replaced with an AGM (Absorbed Glass Mat) 600 cold cranking amp rated Lexus battery (yes I know Lexus doesn't make batteries). This size battery is larger than my original 530 CCA. I now have an Ancel battery monitor:
that I hooked up and this larger AGM battery still drops voltage when parked by about 0.05 to 0.1 volts over a 24 hour period since my original battery was replaced.
I also have bought a Noco battery trickle charger and use it almost every time I'm not going to drive it for a day or more. I've left the car sit for 2-3 days without using the trickle charger on it and it drops around to 0.2 - 0.3 volts which is significant.
Similar to other's findings, I can drive the car for short trips almost everyday, say 10 - 20 miles, and the car struggles to fully recharge the 12 volt to say 12.7 - 12.8 volts. This will obviously lead to the battery degrading over time and reduce it's life if not fully recharged.
This unfortunately is how Lexus has designed their 12 volt battery infrastructure. I recently heard in a video review that mentioned (Hyundai?) allows their large 'traction' battery to charge their 12 volt battery if it starts to drop in voltage. This would certainly go along way if Lexus would allow the same thing, which it currently isn't setup to do. I have noticed that the battery monitor and my little 12 volt accessory plug in voltmeter show readings up to 14.3 volts in the 12 volt system when the car is running yet the battery doesn't seem to get a good recharge. I assume there's so much 12 volt rated equipment powered up that little amperage is going to recharge the battery itself.
My 2 cents, buy a trickle charger and use it regularly, you won't do any harm in leaving it on for any length of time, and if you get one that has a display or reading it will help let you know if battery is healthy (green led) like the Noco I bought. And yes, it's a pain in the *** having to connect it every time you walk away from your car. I've taken to doing this only every few days as I now know how fast the battery discharges.
Last edited by TheCDN; 05-31-24 at 10:27 AM.
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05-31-24, 11:30 AM
#25
bandiad doesn't solve problem
With everything that must be going on in the background with these cars shut off, there's practically no way to eliminate all the parasitic draw on our 12 volt batteries. These car's are always constantly ON for certain systems, like constantly waiting for any communication from your phone app, any communication from Mother Ship Lexus that there's a software update available, the active security system when you lock your car, heck even just actively searching for cell or wifi service to allow communication, etc. Quite simply Lexus won't let you turn these systems off completely. One way only, pull off your hard wired post connector of your 12 volt battery so it doesn't have any opportunity to draw. Now if you do that most likely your vehicle will lose all your personalized settings etc. That's why older 'dumber' vehicles are able to sit for months without their 12 volt dying on you.
I live in Ontario Canada and have a '22 350h. My original battery was struggling to maintain a charge since the moment I took delivery, constantly measuring only 11.8 to 12.2 volts max when the car was off. When your readings are that low your battery's health is not good, it will have been degraded sufficiently that it is no longer able to 'hold' a full charge. My dealer tested and confirmed my battery was bad and replaced with an AGM (Absorbed Glass Mat) 600 cold cranking amp rated Lexus battery (yes I know Lexus doesn't make batteries). This size battery is larger than my original 530 CCA. I now have an Ancel battery monitor:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
that I hooked up and this larger AGM battery still drops voltage when parked by about 0.05 to 0.1 volts over a 24 hour period since my original battery was replaced.
I also have bought a Noco battery trickle charger and use it almost every time I'm not going to drive it for a day or more. I've left the car sit for 2-3 days without using the trickle charger on it and it drops around to 0.2 - 0.3 volts which is significant.
https://www.amazon.com/NOCO-GENIUS2-...ef_=ast_sto_dp
Similar to other's findings, I can drive the car for short trips almost everyday, say 10 - 20 miles, and the car struggles to fully recharge the 12 volt to say 12.7 - 12.8 volts. This will obviously lead to the battery degrading over time and reduce it's life if not fully recharged.
This unfortunately is how Lexus has designed their 12 volt battery infrastructure. I recently heard in a video review that mentioned (Hyundai?) allows their large 'traction' battery to charge their 12 volt battery if it starts to drop in voltage. This would certainly go along way if Lexus would allow the same thing, which it currently isn't setup to do. I have noticed that the battery monitor and my little 12 volt accessory plug in voltmeter show readings up to 14.3 volts in the 12 volt system when the car is running yet the battery doesn't seem to get a good recharge. I assume there's so much 12 volt rated equipment powered up that little amperage is going to recharge the battery itself.
My 2 cents, buy a trickle charger and use it regularly, you won't do any harm in leaving it on for any length of time, and if you get one that has a display or reading it will help let you know if battery is healthy (green led) like the Noco I bought. And yes, it's a pain in the *** having to connect it every time you walk away from your car. I've taken to doing this only every few days as I now know how fast the battery discharges.
I live in Ontario Canada and have a '22 350h. My original battery was struggling to maintain a charge since the moment I took delivery, constantly measuring only 11.8 to 12.2 volts max when the car was off. When your readings are that low your battery's health is not good, it will have been degraded sufficiently that it is no longer able to 'hold' a full charge. My dealer tested and confirmed my battery was bad and replaced with an AGM (Absorbed Glass Mat) 600 cold cranking amp rated Lexus battery (yes I know Lexus doesn't make batteries). This size battery is larger than my original 530 CCA. I now have an Ancel battery monitor:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
that I hooked up and this larger AGM battery still drops voltage when parked by about 0.05 to 0.1 volts over a 24 hour period since my original battery was replaced.
I also have bought a Noco battery trickle charger and use it almost every time I'm not going to drive it for a day or more. I've left the car sit for 2-3 days without using the trickle charger on it and it drops around to 0.2 - 0.3 volts which is significant.
https://www.amazon.com/NOCO-GENIUS2-...ef_=ast_sto_dp
Similar to other's findings, I can drive the car for short trips almost everyday, say 10 - 20 miles, and the car struggles to fully recharge the 12 volt to say 12.7 - 12.8 volts. This will obviously lead to the battery degrading over time and reduce it's life if not fully recharged.
This unfortunately is how Lexus has designed their 12 volt battery infrastructure. I recently heard in a video review that mentioned (Hyundai?) allows their large 'traction' battery to charge their 12 volt battery if it starts to drop in voltage. This would certainly go along way if Lexus would allow the same thing, which it currently isn't setup to do. I have noticed that the battery monitor and my little 12 volt accessory plug in voltmeter show readings up to 14.3 volts in the 12 volt system when the car is running yet the battery doesn't seem to get a good recharge. I assume there's so much 12 volt rated equipment powered up that little amperage is going to recharge the battery itself.
My 2 cents, buy a trickle charger and use it regularly, you won't do any harm in leaving it on for any length of time, and if you get one that has a display or reading it will help let you know if battery is healthy (green led) like the Noco I bought. And yes, it's a pain in the *** having to connect it every time you walk away from your car. I've taken to doing this only every few days as I now know how fast the battery discharges.
YMMV,
MidCow3
05-31-24, 11:49 AM
#26
Racer
Thread Starter
With everything that must be going on in the background with these cars shut off, there's practically no way to eliminate all the parasitic draw on our 12 volt batteries. These car's are always constantly ON for certain systems, like constantly waiting for any communication from your phone app, any communication from Mother Ship Lexus that there's a software update available, the active security system when you lock your car, heck even just actively searching for cell or wifi service to allow communication, etc. Quite simply Lexus won't let you turn these systems off completely. One way only, pull off your hard wired post connector of your 12 volt battery so it doesn't have any opportunity to draw. Now if you do that most likely your vehicle will lose all your personalized settings etc. That's why older 'dumber' vehicles are able to sit for months without their 12 volt dying on you.
I live in Ontario Canada and have a '22 350h. My original battery was struggling to maintain a charge since the moment I took delivery, constantly measuring only 11.8 to 12.2 volts max when the car was off. When your readings are that low your battery's health is not good, it will have been degraded sufficiently that it is no longer able to 'hold' a full charge. My dealer tested and confirmed my battery was bad and replaced with an AGM (Absorbed Glass Mat) 600 cold cranking amp rated Lexus battery (yes I know Lexus doesn't make batteries). This size battery is larger than my original 530 CCA. I now have an Ancel battery monitor:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
that I hooked up and this larger AGM battery still drops voltage when parked by about 0.05 to 0.1 volts over a 24 hour period since my original battery was replaced.
I also have bought a Noco battery trickle charger and use it almost every time I'm not going to drive it for a day or more. I've left the car sit for 2-3 days without using the trickle charger on it and it drops around to 0.2 - 0.3 volts which is significant.
https://www.amazon.com/NOCO-GENIUS2-...ef_=ast_sto_dp
Similar to other's findings, I can drive the car for short trips almost everyday, say 10 - 20 miles, and the car struggles to fully recharge the 12 volt to say 12.7 - 12.8 volts. This will obviously lead to the battery degrading over time and reduce it's life if not fully recharged.
This unfortunately is how Lexus has designed their 12 volt battery infrastructure. I recently heard in a video review that mentioned (Hyundai?) allows their large 'traction' battery to charge their 12 volt battery if it starts to drop in voltage. This would certainly go along way if Lexus would allow the same thing, which it currently isn't setup to do. I have noticed that the battery monitor and my little 12 volt accessory plug in voltmeter show readings up to 14.3 volts in the 12 volt system when the car is running yet the battery doesn't seem to get a good recharge. I assume there's so much 12 volt rated equipment powered up that little amperage is going to recharge the battery itself.
My 2 cents, buy a trickle charger and use it regularly, you won't do any harm in leaving it on for any length of time, and if you get one that has a display or reading it will help let you know if battery is healthy (green led) like the Noco I bought. And yes, it's a pain in the *** having to connect it every time you walk away from your car. I've taken to doing this only every few days as I now know how fast the battery discharges.
I live in Ontario Canada and have a '22 350h. My original battery was struggling to maintain a charge since the moment I took delivery, constantly measuring only 11.8 to 12.2 volts max when the car was off. When your readings are that low your battery's health is not good, it will have been degraded sufficiently that it is no longer able to 'hold' a full charge. My dealer tested and confirmed my battery was bad and replaced with an AGM (Absorbed Glass Mat) 600 cold cranking amp rated Lexus battery (yes I know Lexus doesn't make batteries). This size battery is larger than my original 530 CCA. I now have an Ancel battery monitor:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
that I hooked up and this larger AGM battery still drops voltage when parked by about 0.05 to 0.1 volts over a 24 hour period since my original battery was replaced.
I also have bought a Noco battery trickle charger and use it almost every time I'm not going to drive it for a day or more. I've left the car sit for 2-3 days without using the trickle charger on it and it drops around to 0.2 - 0.3 volts which is significant.
https://www.amazon.com/NOCO-GENIUS2-...ef_=ast_sto_dp
Similar to other's findings, I can drive the car for short trips almost everyday, say 10 - 20 miles, and the car struggles to fully recharge the 12 volt to say 12.7 - 12.8 volts. This will obviously lead to the battery degrading over time and reduce it's life if not fully recharged.
This unfortunately is how Lexus has designed their 12 volt battery infrastructure. I recently heard in a video review that mentioned (Hyundai?) allows their large 'traction' battery to charge their 12 volt battery if it starts to drop in voltage. This would certainly go along way if Lexus would allow the same thing, which it currently isn't setup to do. I have noticed that the battery monitor and my little 12 volt accessory plug in voltmeter show readings up to 14.3 volts in the 12 volt system when the car is running yet the battery doesn't seem to get a good recharge. I assume there's so much 12 volt rated equipment powered up that little amperage is going to recharge the battery itself.
My 2 cents, buy a trickle charger and use it regularly, you won't do any harm in leaving it on for any length of time, and if you get one that has a display or reading it will help let you know if battery is healthy (green led) like the Noco I bought. And yes, it's a pain in the *** having to connect it every time you walk away from your car. I've taken to doing this only every few days as I now know how fast the battery discharges.
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lsft (05-31-24)
05-31-24, 12:09 PM
#27
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05-31-24, 02:54 PM
#28
Racer
Thread Starter
I'll just monitor the 12V battery for now. It was 12.15V yesterday night.
I didn't find the exact power monitor but found one similar on Amazon (In US):
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EVWDU0...lig_dp_it&th=1
I didn't find the exact power monitor but found one similar on Amazon (In US):
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EVWDU0...lig_dp_it&th=1
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lsft (06-01-24)
07-19-24, 12:59 AM
#29
1st Gear
Join Date: Jul 2024
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Best Trickle Charger for use on a Lexus 350h
hi All,
I found my vehicle 12V battery was low at 11.45V on the NX350h so I trickle charged it. Last reading was at 12.65V yesterday as if 11pm.
Today, I looked and it's down to 12.43V at 8am.
Is that normal to lose that amount over night?
I saw some other videos including the ones on youtube from LSFT but not sure if there's an issue on my vehicle.
I found my vehicle 12V battery was low at 11.45V on the NX350h so I trickle charged it. Last reading was at 12.65V yesterday as if 11pm.
Today, I looked and it's down to 12.43V at 8am.
Is that normal to lose that amount over night?
I saw some other videos including the ones on youtube from LSFT but not sure if there's an issue on my vehicle.
07-19-24, 05:35 AM
#30
Battery Tender
BATTERY TENDER PLUS 12V, 1.25A BATTERY CHARGER
YMMV,
MidCow3
Last edited by midcow3; 07-19-24 at 06:12 PM.