Subwoofer install

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08-05-23 | 07:20 AM

#16

Rosado2487

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5th Gear

Joined: Feb 2023

Posts: 5

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From: Va

Quote:

Originally Posted by tbartman67

Thanks for posting this. I'm trying the same thing! A few questions:

1) In my car I see a white/green and white/black wire going into a connector, and on the other side of that connector are a red and white wire going to the original sub. I think in your one photo you're showing that you undid that connector, then used the Metra wiring harness to connect to the white/green and white/black? This may be stupid, but since this is a sub (only one speaker) do I assume when I get my new sub I'm only running into either the R or L inputs? (I'm only going to use one of the pair of harnesses I get)?

2) Crutchfield seems to think that the powered sub I'm getting can use the speaker signal to sense (turn on and off), but on another board, and in your photo, it looks like you're using the 12V "cigarette lighter" there to power the sense? (or are you using that to power your sub itself)? What item do you have plugged into the 12V? (store, part number)? On the other board, with the sub I'm getting, the other dude powered the sub off the screw terminals on the top of the car battery there, which it looks like you didn't do.

Thanks for any help!

1) yes you only need one of the connectors.
2) My setup has changed a lot since this post. What I ended up doing was using the speaker signal to send the signal to a Dayton Audio DSP. The DSP auto powers based on the signal from the speakers, so still the same idea. Then the DSP powers up the amp with REM wire. In this photo, I believe I was using a LOC with auto sensing the signal to power it all up. If you don't need/want a DSP or LOC then you should be able to auto power up with the amp if it has that signal sensing feature.

Some more notes:
I found that the volume to the sub output doesn't seem to adjust based on the volume, but more like vol 1-10 = sub 3. vol 11-20 = sub 5. vol 21-30 sub 7... etc. It makes it a pain, and relies on the bass **** a lot.

The factory tuning on the subwoofer has a lot of mid-low bass. I found it to be exhausting on the ears, so added a DSP to remove higher bass frequencies. It's pretty difficult to remove the higher range notes without completely getting rid of them. The Dayton Audio DSP introduces speaker pop when turning the car on. It's not ideal, but unless you spend a fortune on a DSP you may get stuck with it.

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